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dingus
May 18, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #26 of 32
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In reply to: Most people are going care about who did each type of route prettymuch the same.
Lame or not, that statement is not consistent with the responses to this thread.
No way on earth do MOST sport climbers care who placed the bolts.
No
Freakin
Way
DMT
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timstich
May 18, 2004, 2:40 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Well, we cared about it in as far as it was an indication of the route quality. If we heard a route was put up by so-and-so, then we might anticipate it being good more than another route. But the rad name sells the route the best. Really, isn't a route called "Twighlight's Last Gleaming" going to be tons cooler than "Center Route?" Heh. Who wouldn't want to climb "White Rabbit?"
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honeyhiker
May 18, 2004, 2:43 AM
Post #28 of 32
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I agree there. People in general just take it all for granted. They are there to have a good time and climb. Only a few think beyond that.
I do take exception to the lame comment. But to each his own, we're all interested in different things. How boring if we weren't.
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honeyhiker
May 18, 2004, 2:48 AM
Post #29 of 32
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I think route names are so much fun too. The New has some of the best names. It makes you wonder what sort of character put up route. :lol:
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catbiter
May 18, 2004, 2:59 AM
Post #30 of 32
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First, check for rust. Then look in the back of the book. Say outloud who did the first assent and when it was done. Make sure everyone around you has heard you. It's like pouring out the last of your beer for your "homies".
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tradbum
May 20, 2004, 3:24 AM
Post #31 of 32
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I'll agree with Dingus in that most sport climbers don't give a crap about who put up the route. They only care about the manky crap when they get to the bottom and say "man, that needs to be rebolted", then off to another route. Yet nothing is done about it (as I alluded to in my first response - my bad for not just fixing it...)
It's always been important to me, for the history and what we pass down to our kids, to give credit. Video games, SUV's, 3rd mortgages, etc., it's all so easy nowadays, and it's easy to forget who did what.
If you need a reminder, Sport Climber, (and I'm guilty of that at times as well), go climb (GLENN) Exum's ridge on the Grand Teton.
In reply to: In 1931 at the age of 18, Exum explored and made the first ascent of the south ridge on the Grand Teton that was named in his honor. He was alone and unroped, wearing a pair of borrowed leather cleated football shoes. His account of his famous leap is legendary. At the terrifyingly exposed gap at the end of Wall Street (the key pitch to gain the crest of the ridge), Exum could see no way to climb across. "I walked away from the Exum Ridge seven times until I finally got up there and saw these little handholds and the boulder on the ridge. When you get to the eastern extremity of Wall Street why there isn't any place to jump from," Exum said. "So I climbed as high as I could, until I was sort of secure, and jumped from a standing start." Committed then to the ridge (it was impossible to climb down what he had just jumped across), Glenn completed the climb to the summit. That day in the summit register Exum wrote that the route traversed "the thousand thicknesses of hell." Now the Exum Ridge is the most popular route on the mountain.
So much for bolts eh?
My Dad climbed the Exum Ridge when he was 16, as did I, but he was born in 1938. And he thinks that "sport climbing" is "phooey".
I don't eschew sport climbing at all, I think it's opened the sport to folks who would otherwise never have had the opportunity, but unless anyone wants to scrap their nifty climbing shoes for what's essentially a pair of caulk boots, then (and I'm not ragging on anyone here, but) STFU and give credit where it's due, lest you do it yourself.
And to this point:
In reply to: The only time I really get curious about who placed bolts is when I find the bolting to be sub-par...the route setter doesn't bolt to the grade, but to his/her ability. I don't care for that. Other route setters do a fine job of bolting to the grade: They place a bolt on a 5.9 climb where a 5.9 climber would want a bolt, not where the 5.12 FA'er would want a bolt
How is the bolting sub-par? If it sihtty bolting, then it's a valid point and should be addressed. If it's bolted in a way that knocks the climb out of your level of ability, then do you blame the FA bolter or you, because it's "inconvenient"? Find the FA and ask if you can add a bolt to make it safer. Most wouldn't find it a problem, as all they have to do is skip your new bolt. Anyone who does may have an arrogance issue, but why would a 5.12 climber have a problem with adding to a 5.9?
My 2
Take care & climb safe,
Smitty
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gavin
May 26, 2004, 6:12 AM
Post #32 of 32
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I'm interested in who placed the bolts of routes I'm climbing. Information on the history of a crag is good, not only to read on rest days or when its raining but also to see whos putting in all the hard work & get a feel for who puts up good routes & who's I'd rather not climb.
Having placed many bolts myself, often the name of the route means a lot more than "Something that sounds cool".
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