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Millet downgrades 'Realization'
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bustloose


May 28, 2004, 7:36 PM
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jip, what you're missing is that this forum CAN be hyprocritical, because it is not a collection of people with varying opinions... it is a bunch of followers who have a lot of trouble forming their own opinions, and in cases like this, think as one person (and i use the term 'think' very loosely here')...

you will also notice the complete lack of posts today, although the thread has gained many more views... could it be that they have realized that i might just be right, and have absolutely nothing to say...?


jipstyle


May 28, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Once again, a forum can not be hypocritical, because it is not one person.

You say that the forum is 'like' a person, in that it acts 'as one, without opinions' ... and then you call 'it' hypocritical because it (the forum) demonstrates more than one opinion. This just doesn't make sense.

Some people worship Sharma because he is so strong.

Some people hate Sharma because he is so strong.

Some people hate Sharma because some people worship him, etc. etc..

All of these people can be found on rc.com. In fact, if you substitute a climber's name for Sharma (Caldwell, Hill, Potter, whoever) and any excuse for 'he is strong', and you'll find the same variety.

So ... when someone posts anything about anyone, people are going to piss all over each other defining the 'achievement' (or lack thereof) ... at length ... 'cause that is what we do here.

Hypocrisy is impossible if you can agree on an ideal to betray.


jipstyle


May 28, 2004, 8:55 PM
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Once again, a forum can not be hypocritical, because it is not one person.

You say that the forum is 'like' a person, in that it acts 'as one, without opinions' ... and then you call 'it' hypocritical because it (the forum) demonstrates more than one opinion. This just doesn't make sense.

Some people worship Sharma because he is so strong.

Some people hate Sharma because he is so strong.

Some people hate Sharma because some people worship him, etc. etc..

All of these people can be found on rc.com. In fact, if you substitute a climber's name for Sharma (Caldwell, Hill, Potter, whoever) and any excuse for 'he is strong', and you'll find the same variety.

So ... when someone posts anything about anyone, people are going to piss all over each other defining the 'achievement' (or lack thereof) ... at length ... 'cause that is what we do here.

Hypocrisy is impossible if you can't agree on an ideal to betray.


deafears


May 28, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Well said, jipstyle.

Bustloose, don't hate the Sharma, hate the game.


campo


May 29, 2004, 11:38 PM
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Bustloose my man...you gotta stop being so defensive...maybe smoke a little ganja...or would that make you too much like Sharma....?
Got forbid that should happen!
PROPS to Millet...seems most people have forgotten to just enjoy climbing...they rather make it into a debate
Forget the freaking ratings....climb what you like and forget the rest!


ikefromla


May 30, 2004, 8:02 AM
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bustloose, I don't understand why you would spend that much time being malicious and rude to prove your [outright] point that Americans love Sharma too much. I mean, who wastes their time even THINKING about this?
and as for sully264, when you say:
In reply to:
ratings at difficulties that none of us will ever get neer
the only way i can reply is to say SPEAK FOR YOURSELF BEEYOTCH. :wink:


dynamicpanda


May 31, 2004, 12:57 AM
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When are you guys gonna get bored of saying the same things over and over? I just read 2 pages of this and page 6 looks no different than the first 2 did.


realization_83


May 31, 2004, 10:15 AM
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sharma is a legend, who cares what the grade is, what matters the most the individual climbing the route, sharma worked so hard on realization and eventually overcame it, if millet only took two weeks to complete it then good for him, sharma is still a legend though, near flash of The Fly 5.14d or 9a and then sent it within the hour of his first try, the fastest ascent of a 9a route ever.


jipstyle


May 31, 2004, 1:05 PM
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In reply to:
When are you guys gonna get bored of saying the same things over and over? I just read 2 pages of this and page 6 looks no different than the first 2 did.

Apparently, we're still going strong. :P

Thanks for the bump back onto the front page, though. :)


yotschou


May 31, 2004, 1:53 PM
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this is the ONLY official news about the ascent of millet....

DERNIERE NOUVELLE!!!
Sylvain MILLET veins d'enchainer "Biographie". Il devient donc le premier répétiteur de ce 9a+. Encore Bravo!!!


says...: " he has been doing the first repetition of an 9a+ ever "....so,nobody is speaking about downgrading!

Lundi 24 mai 2004, Céüse, une fois de plus.
Echauffement classique, en douceur, au secteur de Berlin dans Coup de blues, Petite illusion, Blocage violent et Makach walou.
Puis direction "Biographie". On est plus que trois à la falaise; le froid ayant fait fuir les autres grimpeurs. Le vent de la collante est là, les conditions sont optimales. Concentration habituelle au pied de la voie. Et c'est parti pour un nième essai. La première partie est vite enchainée, repos au niveau du relais, puis quelques mètres après, long repos avant le crux. Bidoigt, inter pour bien le travailler, tridoigt, puis jeté en croisant sur la réglette. Un pied part, mais ça tient, pour la première fois, dément. Grognements et encouragements pour les quelques mouvements durs suivants. Delayage rapide au repos qui suit, puis les derniers mètres, plus facile. Relais: "Ok, prends".
Magistral !
Redescente rapide. "Panda" vient d'enchainer Biographie, elle est bien bonne celle là.
Fallait bien que ça arrive un jour, mais là, c'est démentiel!
Une bonne heure après, on descend de la falaise, en regardant une dernière fois LA coulée bleue mythique.
Heureusement, il reste un nombre incroyable de projets à faire ici...
Merci Sylvain, tu m'as offert un beau cadeau pour mon anniversaire...
Récit de Yannick Bourgeois

fact is : Millet never downgraded the route....
or where did you get this information...bustloose ??!!


bustloose


May 31, 2004, 2:31 PM
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it's true, it's true... people really do just read the first post and then reply to it!!

dude, read through the thread, then delete your post.

i've said before, and i'll say again, i don't hate sharma, or the the game, i just have issues with the blatant North Americans rule the world attitude.


climb_plastic


May 31, 2004, 4:35 PM
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In reply to:
i've said before, and i'll say again, i don't hate sharma, or the the game, i just have issues with the blatant North Americans rule the world attitude.
If you think the North Americans are blatant then travel around. I've been traveling around and it's the same everywhere. I started in California and I've been to Canada, the East Coast, England, and France and they all say the same. In my travels I've found that, "the East Coast has at least 4 to 5 people as good as sharma", "Canada has a handful of young climbers that are at least as good as sharma was at that age", "sharma may be good but he can't climb in Whales," and "sharma isn't as good as you think....the French climbers are better at everything." Without looking at your profile I'd guess you're from France.


bustloose


May 31, 2004, 9:55 PM
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i suppose i'll respond one more time. no i am not from France. and dude if you've had all those conversations, then you're talking with the wrong crowd.

i too have travelled all over the world to climb, and the only time Chris' name came up was when we were standing below Realization and a german friend said "holy shit, that looks just evil, Sharma must have been on top of his game"

Sure, every country and every region feels they have some of the best, but within reason, they at least look at facts and make intelligent statemets. Francois Legrand was the best comp climber during the 90's. this is a fact. he is no longer the best comp climber out there, and no one says he is. rational people can see that times change, and new climbers appear, shred and get old. the NA media only has eyes for Chris, and that is disappointing, because there are tons of very talented young (and some old) climbers out there.


hardmanknott


Jun 1, 2004, 3:20 PM
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What a pathetic thread.

I had the misfortune of wading though a whole page and a half of it.

You clowns need to "STFU" and do some actual climbing or something.

Or something.

Hardman Knott


jipstyle


Jun 1, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Now I want a beer.

Damn subliminal signatures.

Ok, it was far from subliminal.

STFU.

Beer.


onsightit


Jun 5, 2004, 11:58 PM
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Sylvain Millet did not down grade it, he RENAMED it! According to the interview on Freakclimbing.com http://www.freakclimbing.com/Freak/People/Millet.htm.

So, how does one make the second ascent of a route and then get to rename it?


acrophobic


Jun 6, 2004, 8:52 AM
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hmm so it seems bustloose fell prey to rumor spraying with no actual backing.

since the whole point of this thread has been discredited, lets just lock it?


deafears


Jun 9, 2004, 7:26 PM
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Why lock a thread that inspires so much good, honest loathing -- isn't that what chat rooms are for?

Here's the latest from Climbing mag ...

Millet Won't Grade Realization
By Dougald MacDonald


Frenchman Sylvain Millet, who made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Realization at Ceüse, France, in late May, says he doesn't know how hard it is — the only sure thing, he says, is that it's harder than the 8c+ (5.14c) routes he has climbed at the same crag. Millet, ranked sixth in the world in competition climbing, spent three years working on the route, which adds about 50 feet of difficult climbing to Biographie, an 8c+ first redpointed in 1995 by Arnaud Petit. Millet made the third ascent of the original Biographie in 1999.
After Sharma’s ascent in 2001, Realization was widely touted as 5.15a, despite the fact that Sharma never graded it. Unsuccessful attempts to repeat the route by strongmen such as Dave Graham and Patxi Usobiaga have added to its stature. But Millet says he has no idea if the climb is 9a+ (5.15a).
“I don’t have enough reference to say if it is 9a or 9a+ — I have made only two 8c+’s [plus], and one of them has not been repeated. Moreover, I don’t care about that," Millet said. "The only thing that suggests it would be 9a+ is the number of climbers who are very strong who tried the route without linking it, and the number of tries which Chris did to link it — and me even more!”


bustloose


Jun 10, 2004, 8:03 PM
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In reply to:
hmm so it seems bustloose fell prey to rumor spraying with no actual backing.

since the whole point of this thread has been discredited, lets just lock it?

dude, i didn't 'fall prey' to anything... i started a troll to elicit a predicted response, and you all stepped up beautifully. then ran away when you realized that point i was making was spot on.


climb_plastic


Jun 10, 2004, 10:43 PM
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dude, i didn't 'fall prey' to anything... i started a troll to elicit a predicted response
You think anyone believes that? The only thing predictable was you saying you were just trolling because you posted something stupid then you got slammed and felt like an idiot It happens all the time. It's a typical rookie move.


bustloose


Jun 11, 2004, 2:52 PM
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jesus H christ on a popsicle stick... i give up. yes, you're soooo smart you got me pegged... i make a rookie mistake.

happy now?

fuck.


jipstyle


Jun 11, 2004, 6:52 PM
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dude, i didn't 'fall prey' to anything... i started a troll to elicit a predicted response, and you all stepped up beautifully.

That is the oldest excuse for losing an argument on the 'net. :roll:

In reply to:
then ran away when you realized that point i was making was spot on.


The only spot in this thread is the egg on your face.

You invented a problem (hero-worship), and accused everyone who disagreed with you of being a slave to that mentality. You lied, and then pretended it was a troll in order to save face.

Get over yourself. Toss the chip off your shoulder .. you'll climb better without the weight of your bruised ego.


bustloose


Jun 11, 2004, 7:15 PM
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shut the fuck up already.. the only thing you tried to add to the thread was a useless argument about semantics.

i think i would know what my intentions were, thank you very much, i don't need all of you telling me what happend.

it would now be pointless to continue to try and make you see my point, seeing as how minds have been made up about how i was misinformed and then lost an argument. i likely knew about the repeat before any of you, and 99% of you didn't even know who Millet was. i used that opportunity to make my point about hypocrisy on this board. if you don't want to see that, then go ahead and continue your ignorant little existence.

i don't need to 'save face'... i didn't even lose the argument, i am quite pleased with the result of my post, even though most people here are too stubborn or dimwitted to see that. i 'invented' the problem of hero worship?? are you kidding? it's rampant on here.

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