|
bustloose
May 26, 2004, 7:27 PM
Post #1 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
so, the long awaited repeat of "the worlds first 15a" (according to the US press) has happened. Sylvain Millet has sent Realization, and downgraded it. to 9a. he claims that Biographie is likely only 8c, and it only took him 2 weeks to send Realization, and does not feel it is 15a. It took Sharma 2 years of attempts and countless falls at the upper crux, so he called it 15a, perhaps Chris is just not as good as North America thinks he is?
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
May 26, 2004, 7:30 PM
Post #2 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Chris never called it 15a.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
May 26, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #3 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Did Sharma rate Realization or did he just climb it?
|
|
|
|
|
voriand
May 26, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #4 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2003
Posts: 73
|
It is so subjective.
I know one thing for a fact. I will NEVER be able to do that.
|
|
|
|
|
crimpandgo
May 26, 2004, 7:34 PM
Post #5 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 1005
|
Chris refused to give it a rating. The press called it a 15a when guys like David Graham attempted it and failed.
|
|
|
|
|
scotto
May 26, 2004, 7:34 PM
Post #6 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2003
Posts: 131
|
i'm curious of your source - 15a to a 9a is a freakin huge difference. 15a to a 13a or something like that is maybe more believable.
|
|
|
|
|
moonshine505
May 26, 2004, 7:35 PM
Post #7 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 148
|
What a pathetic troll for a response...how's it working out for ya? Did it make you feel better?
Sharma never graded it...this is why
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
May 26, 2004, 7:35 PM
Post #8 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
I downgrade stuff all the time! This is nothing new. As long as the visiting climber doesn't look at the guidebook, you can get away with it. Open Book 5.9? Nooooo, easy 5.7. The Vampire 5.11a? Nooooo, barely 5.9+. The Edge a scary runout 5.11a testpiece? Noooo, sport bolted 5.10-.
And it's France for goodness sakes. Who the hell cares what goes on there anyways.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
|
|
|
|
|
moonshine505
May 26, 2004, 7:37 PM
Post #9 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 148
|
9a is french grade for .14d...
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 26, 2004, 7:38 PM
Post #10 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
scotto, i'm on a group email list of climbers that i have met and climbed with in the past, it landed in my inbox this morning. and perhaps maybe get your grading straight... it's one grade difference...
moonshine, think what you will. this is not about whether Sharma graded it or not, it's that it took him 2 years to send, and Sylvain dispatched it with relative ease.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
May 26, 2004, 7:41 PM
Post #11 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
In reply to: this is not about whether Sharma graded it or not
In reply to: Sharma 2 years of attempts and countless falls at the upper crux, so he called it 15a, perhaps Chris is just not as good as North America thinks he is?
STFU n00b
|
|
|
|
|
scotto
May 26, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #12 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2003
Posts: 131
|
In reply to: 9a is french grade for .14d...
oh
|
|
|
|
|
vertical_reality
May 26, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #13 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 2073
|
In reply to: it took him 2 years to send, and Sylvain dispatched it with relative ease.
Then why does 8a.nu say that "he worked the route for quite a while"?
|
|
|
|
|
pushsendnorcal
May 26, 2004, 7:44 PM
Post #14 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2003
Posts: 207
|
The reason why everyone and the press thought it was harder than 9a/14D is because every strong climber, who has done at least 9a/14D and has tried it has failed.
Steve McClure-three 14Ds, failed
Dave Graham-five 14Ds, failed
Francis Legrand-one 14D
Francis Petite-many 14Cs
The list goes on and on. Basically every strong climber has tried that failed and has been unsuccessful.
But on the other side, when Chris started working Realization he had spent two days rope climbing over the course of 2.5years. Chris wasn't exactly in rope climbing shape.
We will have to wait until more people repeat the climb and give an average grade
|
|
|
|
|
taraus_de_bull
May 26, 2004, 7:48 PM
Post #15 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: In reply to: it took him 2 years to send, and Sylvain dispatched it with relative ease. Then why does 8a.nu say that "he worked the route for quite a while"?
i was wondering when someone would mention that. and 8a.nu mentions nothing of a down grade.
hmm..
so what other 14d's has this guy climbed? just out of curiousity?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
junkie
May 26, 2004, 7:48 PM
Post #17 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 100
|
Actually, it's not a troll. I saw on 8a.nu that Sylvain did indeed repeat Realization. About the grades I have no idea though. Although I heard that he did not have to work it all that long. But I don't know for sure.
And for the guy who does not understand grades (scotto)
15a = 9a+
14d = 9a
14c = 8c+
14b = 8c
Bustloose is saying that Sylvain downgraded it from 9a+ to 9a, and called the first half of the climb 8c (instead of the reported 8c+).
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 26, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #18 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
pardon me? who are you calling a noob?
just because i am suggesting that Sharma may be overmarketed makes me a noob? nice try.
anyone remember the Mandala...?
it took him 2 weeks of attempts spread over several visits to the crag.
|
|
|
|
|
taraus_de_bull
May 26, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #19 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282
|
also, whats kind of funny is you say he says biographie is the part he downgrade. When both mutant spainish guys sent it and never down graded it, check out their scorecards on 8a.nu. they've sent a ton of hard as climbs and neither of then have done realization yet.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
May 26, 2004, 7:53 PM
Post #20 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
I'm calling your pathetic mentality n00bish. Why can't it be a good thing for Millet instead of a bad thing for Sharma? Oh, because you have to make yourself feel better.
STFU n00b
Edit: You even lied to make Sharma seem worse.
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 26, 2004, 7:53 PM
Post #21 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
i'm sure lots of people beleive the world was round before someone actually proposed the idea to 'the public'.
someone has to take the abuse, and many people shy away from it.
|
|
|
|
|
moonshine505
May 26, 2004, 7:53 PM
Post #22 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 148
|
And it's worth mentioning that Millet lives in Gap, which happens to be where Ceuse is...Sharma's "2 years of work" was spread over a few transatlantic trips
Does this remind anyone of the Mandala? Hell that thing went unclimbed for years until chris did it, people speculated V15 (8C) and now, depending on which crumbled version of it exists at the time of a send, folks are rating it around V12. Again, precicely why Chris doesn't rate his routes.
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 26, 2004, 7:56 PM
Post #23 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
the point, which all of you are so helpfully proving, is that you are only upset about the downgrade because Sharma was the FA. you are all so fast to step on any 'new' 15a or harder, and downgrade routes and problems that you have never even set eyes on, but as soon as your beloved Chris is in the picture it's a different story...
edit: bandyboy... shut up already, ok?
|
|
|
|
|
taraus_de_bull
May 26, 2004, 7:58 PM
Post #24 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: anyone remember the Mandala...?
if memory serves, one other person sent it in is the same way he did and called it the same grade, and then a key hold broke, changing the line and also downgrading.
Bustloose, you are acting like a noob, here's why, your trashing this guy millets accomplishment by slandering sharma. it seems like your a one of the many jealous sharma haters. why don't you keep the hating on sharma to your personal life and give credit where credit is due. This guy millet did a great thing, stop discrediting him no matter what the grade, MANY strong guys fail at this route, he did an awesome thing, give the dude his credit and stop all your hating.
|
|
|
|
|
drrock
May 26, 2004, 8:03 PM
Post #25 of 98
(9579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2003
Posts: 610
|
edit
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
