|
climboard
May 27, 2004, 8:43 PM
Post #1 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
|
With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information.
What are your thoughts on soloing?
1. I participate frequently
2. I occasionally enjoy it.
3. I used to but don't any more.
4. Nope, never have, never will.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
1. Top-rope
2. Sport
3. Trad
How long have you been climbing?
My answers are 3, 3, and 13.
|
|
|
|
|
jcr
May 27, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #2 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing?
How about never done it but may try it some day.
In reply to: What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
I do only sport for now...
In reply to: How long have you been climbing?
I've been climbing only for a year
JC
|
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
May 27, 2004, 8:55 PM
Post #3 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
Never have (on anything above 5.3 maybe which I don't think counts) unless you consider highballs. Trad is my favorite on the rope side.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
May 27, 2004, 8:56 PM
Post #4 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 3. I used to but don't any more. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad, but mostly I boulder. How long have you been climbing? 25 years
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
jcinco
May 27, 2004, 9:13 PM
Post #5 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395
|
2
3
8
|
|
|
|
|
edge
May 27, 2004, 9:14 PM
Post #6 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing?
I used to solo a ton, but not so much of the high grades now that I have a family.
In reply to: What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
Trad, but I participate in everything.
In reply to: How long have you been climbing?
27 years.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
May 27, 2004, 9:29 PM
Post #7 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 1. I participate frequently What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 10
josh
|
|
|
|
|
njari
May 27, 2004, 9:30 PM
Post #8 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 160
|
4, 3 and 5 1/2.
Like drevsovrn, I am not counting easy 5th class as a solo.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
May 27, 2004, 9:33 PM
Post #9 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing?
2. I occasionally enjoy it, although I never set out purposely to do it. It always winds up just happening, when I see something too high to boulder, but I want to climb it anyway.
In reply to: What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
3. Trad
In reply to: How long have you been climbing?
Almost nine years.
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
May 27, 2004, 9:38 PM
Post #10 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 2. I occasionally enjoy it. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 1 1/2 years |
|
|
|
|
ricardol
May 27, 2004, 9:40 PM
Post #11 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
A much more interesting question would be: (to build the profile of a soloist) ..
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
At what grade do you free solo?
-------------
My answers:
I led mostly 5.8 and a bit of 5.9 trad
I've soloed mostly 5.6, with a short section of 5.8 (C.S. Concerto P1)
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
May 27, 2004, 9:44 PM
Post #12 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
What are your thoughts on soloing?
1. I participate frequently
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
3. Trad
How long have you been climbing?
4-5
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
5.10
At what grade do you free solo?
5.7
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 27, 2004, 9:50 PM
Post #13 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing? 5. Not as you would probably define it. But I don't rule it out. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 5 years
GO
|
|
|
|
|
thescottishclimber
May 27, 2004, 9:52 PM
Post #14 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 12
|
I ahve never tried soloing
My favorite type of climbing is trad
I hav been climbing for 10 years
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
May 27, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #15 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing? 4. Nope, never have, never will. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 9 yrs |
|
|
|
|
russwalling
May 27, 2004, 10:29 PM
Post #16 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239
|
by decade: 70's
What are your thoughts on soloing?
Loved it... second climb ever was a freesolo of a 5.4-6 thing. Then down climbed it. Used to solo stuff at night with a gang of us.....
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
Trad... there was no other
How long have you been climbing?
2years
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
5.10
At what grade do you free solo?
5.7 or 5.10 wired
by decade: 80's
What are your thoughts on soloing?
Loved it even more. Of course I had some good teachers, like Bachar, Lechlinski, Cashner, Yabo, Largo, etc. Soloing was standard.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
Trad or Toprope, when not on an aid wall
How long have you been climbing?
10+ years
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
During the decade up to hard 5.12
At what grade do you free solo?
up to 5.11 or so if wired. Crack only! Tons of 5.10 stuff, before actually going climbing.
by decade: the 90's
What are your thoughts on soloing?
Still love it, but off the sofa it gets kinda sketch
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
Trad, with some sport mixed in.
How long have you been climbing?
10+ - 20 years
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
5.11
At what grade do you free solo?
probably any 5.7 and up to 5.10+ wired.
by decade: the 2000's
What are your thoughts on soloing?
Still think it is the dogs bollocks. Don't do much anymore, but still have a yearning and a head for it... just too fat to do it.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
Trad only these days. Sport is too crimpy and too safe.
How long have you been climbing?
20+ years
At what grade do you lead (roped)?
any 5.10 you've got with the odd giveaway 5.11 if I fit it good. But the decade ain't over and I'm on a comeback
At what grade do you free solo?
5.7 fingers, 5.8 hands, and a few wired ones from back in the day. But, the way I lead now is more of a freesolo thing.... long valley hand cracks, one or two pieces of pro on the longest rope I can find. I just love the long runout and linking pitches. Gets that freesolo jones a fix without actually risking decking... I'll probably only go 200+ feet if I fall. :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
mtman
May 27, 2004, 10:45 PM
Post #17 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 229
|
i have no desire to freesolo anything but will high ball, so nothing more than 25 ft
favorite roped: sport but prefer to boulder
i have been rock climbing seriously for about 1.5 years and been doing alpine for 2 years.
i understand why people want to freesolo and if that is what they want to do then go ahead i just would rather be on the safe side but i won't count out small easy freesolos on somthing that i know that i will not fall on.
another question for frequent freesoloists
do you have any family and what do they think, and has it made you re think your priorities?
|
|
|
|
|
r6driver
May 27, 2004, 11:14 PM
Post #18 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 95
|
2
2
4
|
|
|
|
|
nealric
May 27, 2004, 11:40 PM
Post #19 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 147
|
2,3,8
(shhh- dont tell the parents)
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
May 27, 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #20 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 3. I used to but don't any more. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 12 years
Chris...
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
May 27, 2004, 11:58 PM
Post #21 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing? 1. I participate frequently
At one point I soloed more then I roped up (early 90's)
In reply to: 2. I occasionally enjoy it.
This is more accurate nowadays.
In reply to: What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
1. Alpine
2. Sport
3. Trad
In reply to: How long have you been climbing?
20 years
=-=-=-
old days
rope easy 12
easy 10 onsight
solo easy 11 wired
nowadays (last few years)
rope 5.11 to 5.13 depending
solo 5.8 to easy 5.10 if wired
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
May 28, 2004, 12:21 AM
Post #22 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
3. have but not now
3. Trad love most, but enjoy sport
10yrs
|
|
|
|
|
wallwombat
May 28, 2004, 1:01 AM
Post #23 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 3. I used to but don't any more. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad, but mostly I boulder. How long have you been climbing? 15 years |
|
|
|
|
climboard
May 28, 2004, 2:43 AM
Post #24 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
|
In reply to: A much more interesting question would be: (to build the profile of a soloist) .. At what grade do you lead (roped)? At what grade do you free solo? ------------- My answers: I led mostly 5.8 and a bit of 5.9 trad I've soloed mostly 5.6, with a short section of 5.8 (C.S. Concerto P1)
Good questions-
I currently lead trad in the 5.10 range with the occasional 5.11 and sport in the 5.11-5.12.
Back in the days when I soloed frequently I would solo up to my limit 5.11+ but on routes I had wired, 5.9 on routes I didn't.
I do miss the days of having a circuit at my local crag but I find it harder to justify with a wife and daughter.
I still solo at an easy grade when it involves moving fast in alpine terrain, scrambling, etc.
I'm right there with Russ, what I enjoy the most now is doing long pitches in my comfort level with as little pro as I can get away with.
|
|
|
|
|
rendog
May 28, 2004, 3:29 AM
Post #25 of 49
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 2468
|
What are your thoughts on soloing?
2. I occasionally enjoy it. On ice I'm much, much more secure than on rock. I have no problem whatsoever soloing WI4+ - WI5, but for some reason I get sketchy when soloing rock above 5.7. Dunno why, but that's just me.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
1. Ice
2. Trad
3. Sport
How long have you been climbing?
Awhile..I think in the just pre 10 year mark
to answer the other questions...
what grade do I lead (roped)
...that depends on many things. but usually in the hard 11 to easy 12 range if I'm in shape
at what grade do I free solo
... like I said on ice then up to WI5, rock 5.7ish
|
|
|
|
|
gumbobob
May 28, 2004, 4:41 AM
Post #26 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 21, 2002
Posts: 241
|
2
2
4
|
|
|
|
|
ronamick
May 28, 2004, 4:50 AM
Post #27 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2002
Posts: 476
|
i consider free soloing to be the purest, most fulfilling and enjoyable type of climbing there is.
Trad and bouldering
29 years and counting
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
May 28, 2004, 5:19 AM
Post #28 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
2 (very occasionaly)
1 and 3
32 years
|
|
|
|
|
tim
May 28, 2004, 5:48 AM
Post #29 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
2, 3, 8
I lead 5.10 (reasonably consistent about this lately) and will solo up to about 5.8, depending on the route. I usually do not attempt to onsight solo anything harder than 5.7 because otherwise it ends in an embarrassing retreat. But sometimes the notion to solo a moderate route (Tree Route, Great White Book, Magician dome, etc.) will sneak into my head, and occasionally I figure what the hell, and it turns out to be a lot of fun. I don't want to get into a position where I am over my head and scared, but sometimes it is a good feeling not to dick around with gear and knots and such, and just climb.
I imagine this is pretty much what Mike feels like, I thought he was nuts to get on some of the routes he's done when I tried to onsight them. But then after a few falls and wiring the cruxes, I thought about it, and realized it wasn't too insane if you are climbing strong and confident on good rock. It's more a question of knowing your limits IMHO.
I don't have kids or I might view this differently, but I kind of doubt it.
|
|
|
|
|
solo
May 28, 2004, 7:37 AM
Post #30 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2003
Posts: 100
|
I love free soloing. Not doing it very often though, because when given a choice between a trip with friends and going solo, I allways choose the fromer. I guess I am just too sociable for a "true soloist".
Whatever, I just climb. If it is a sport climb, I use its safety to push the numbers and log some airtime, if its trad or alpine I enjoy the mental aspect of climbing long less protected routes. However, bouldering and top roping are just a methods of trianing for me, I am afraid.
I've been climbing for 6 years now, hardest sport redpoint at lower 5.12's and free solo up to 5.9
However, as free solos go, the most memorable are those winter mixed routes hardly a 5.5, but scary as hell, when you're scratching the rock with crampons and axes.
|
|
|
|
|
okie_redneck
May 28, 2004, 8:16 AM
Post #31 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2004
Posts: 303
|
When I was a very stupid and naive teenager I would free solo very low grade five up to over 200 ft in street shoes to show everyone what a badass I was in Boy Scouts. I did say very stupid, so noone has to remind me. Now, I just solo TR 'cause I have an abrasive personality and noonoe wants to climb with my big mouth. I could say I've been climbing since I was five (I'm 26) and not be technically lying, but I've spent several years in Florida where the largest "mountain" is Miami's landfill, so let's say at least ten years on/off.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
May 28, 2004, 12:16 PM
Post #32 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Solo frequently
lead 5.10 solo5.5-5.6 or a seven if i have it dialed One 5.9 but the crux was low (junior@gunks). Solo lots of grade 3 to 3+ ice. lead 4+ ice.
Mostly trad but a good ammount of spurt and some boldering, some aid.
20+years
|
|
|
|
|
craggincragin
May 28, 2004, 1:24 PM
Post #33 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2003
Posts: 154
|
I don't have the guts to free-solo much above 50' anymore, and personally I think it's selfish in regards to family, friend and business relations if you don't know what you're doing (a free-soloer who knows what they're doing never falls anyway).
On the other hand, most of the climbing I do is rope-solo. It all started back in the days of my youth when the only climbing partners were in North Conway, and for lack of such I taught myself to climb solo with a rope. Rope-soloing is an exhilerating approach to climbing, and a bit safer than free-soloing.
|
|
|
|
|
ullr
Jun 6, 2004, 8:22 AM
Post #34 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2004
Posts: 338
|
What are your thoughts on soloing?
3. Used to solo alot of ice routes and some rock.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
3. Everything, but bouldering is my least favorite.
How long have you been climbing?
16 years
|
|
|
|
|
rockn_j
Jun 6, 2004, 9:09 AM
Post #35 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2004
Posts: 99
|
I've solod some easy stuff, but its not for me. Maby one day.
Sport
4 years
I lead 5.11 roped up.
5.6 solo
|
|
|
|
|
socalbolter
Jun 6, 2004, 2:11 PM
Post #36 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
|
3
2
3
depends on the day and the route
5.10 or 5.11
|
|
|
|
|
drake
Jun 14, 2004, 9:04 PM
Post #37 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2004
Posts: 136
|
I solo if i can't find a partner to rope up with.
I enjoy the company of a partner and leading harder than I can solo.
Soloing is good mental training for when things get run out on harder routes.
I consider it training for the alpine routes I try. Usually the rack is small and the exposure is big in the alpine world. It works.
I rarely see people soloing in the southeast which is probably a good thing. But I enjoy the freedom of no rope, rack and belays to slow you down. You can climb 15 to 20 pitches of moderate terrain in a day and the only thing that slows you down is roped parties.
Favorite climbing is alpine.
lead 5.9
solo up to 5.7 but enjoy the 5.5 range the most.
Climbing 11 years
|
|
|
|
|
mcgardogen
Jun 14, 2004, 9:15 PM
Post #38 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 55
|
3
One of my buddies and I soloed the first pitch of a 5.7 trad route on accident once does that count?
2 or 3
depends on my mood but I like to just all out climb and not worry about gear so much, but nothin beats a good trad route.
4 years
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jun 14, 2004, 9:21 PM
Post #39 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I love nice long, easy freesoloing, but only do it occasionally.
I climb trad and sport regularly and occasionally boulder.
Been climbing 18 yrs.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 14, 2004, 9:21 PM
Post #40 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
In reply to: What are your thoughts on soloing? 3. I used to but don't any more. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? 7 |
|
|
|
|
matttheripper
Jun 15, 2004, 7:06 PM
Post #41 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 65
|
One Solo to date. 5.8
Trad, bouldering, sport
3 years
It's risky. I'm not good enough yet to have the head needed for freesoloing. Maybe one day.
Oh yeah, I lead 10+
|
|
|
|
|
sketchy
Jun 15, 2004, 7:48 PM
Post #42 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 5
|
Have you ever considered those who weren't very good at soloing do not have a means to contribute their opinion? :D
|
|
|
|
|
stevep
Jun 15, 2004, 8:25 PM
Post #43 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 93
|
3, 2, and 18. Though I've given up soloing since getting married and having kids, I still do highball bouldering, which in some ways is more dangerous than the soloing I used to do.
|
|
|
|
|
flipnfall
Jun 15, 2004, 8:35 PM
Post #44 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
|
What are your thoughts on soloing?
1. I participate frequently
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
2. Sport
How long have you been climbing?
20 years
|
|
|
|
|
holmeslovesguinness
Jun 15, 2004, 8:46 PM
Post #45 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
|
What are your thoughts on soloing?
1. I participate frequently
2. I occasionally enjoy it.
3. I used to but don't any more.
4. Nope, never have, never will.
Probably #4, but I never say never. Bouldering may be as close as I get to soloing, we'll see.
What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up?
1. Top-rope
2. Sport
3. Trad
Trad, but I'm perfectly happy to be clipping bolts or TR'ing.
How long have you been climbing?
5 of the last 12 years, still a gumbie.
|
|
|
|
|
watusi
Jul 21, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #47 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 26
|
Had done most J-Tree Classics like Left Ski Track etc. went on to solo Hot Rocks and others and was witnessed by BVB Soloing Central Scrutinizer ( 12C)
|
|
|
|
|
outsideguyzak
May 28, 2005, 4:34 PM
Post #48 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 169
|
I occasionally free solo; usually in the 5.8 range, also a few 5.7s and one 5.9+
I mostly sport, but have just started to trad and really enjoy it. I boulder a little as well.
I have been climbing for almost one year, but one very dedicated year.
I mostly trad in the 5.8 and 5.9 range, but onsighted a 5.10 at T-wall yesterday- Finger-locking good.
I sport climb in the 5.11s and 5.12 range.
I boulder v8 range
|
|
|
|
|
sick_climba
May 28, 2005, 5:02 PM
Post #49 of 49
(4762 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
|
In reply to: With all the discussions recently about soloing and the opposing views expressed I'm curious to know what the background is for people on different sides of the issue. Please reply with the following information. What are your thoughts on soloing? 1. I participate frequently 2. I occasionally enjoy it. 3. I used to but don't any more. 4. Nope, never have, never will. What type of climbing is your favorite when roped up? 1. Top-rope 2. Sport 3. Trad How long have you been climbing? My answers are 3, 3, and 13.
2nd sport,
3rd 5-6 months
|
|
|
|
|
|
