Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Fear: What do you do?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


nirvana


Aug 4, 2004, 8:47 PM
Post #1 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138

Fear: What do you do?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am very curious about how people deal with fear when they are climbing. Obviously fear happens--whether fear of heights on beginning climbs, or fear generated by a serious epic--and it must be dealt with. Do most of you try to ignore fear (macho method)? Let yourself really feel fear (touchy-feely method)? Pray? Sing? Make jokes? Yell at yourself?

What methods do you use to set your fears aside?


Partner cliffhanger9
Moderator

Aug 4, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #2 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 2275

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
...Do most of you try to ignore fear (macho method)?...

pfffffssshshhhh...i dont get scared.

:tinfoilhat:


seriosuly though...you just have to try to calm down stop from panicking and think about what has to be done next...think of steps to get you through the situation.


dingus


Aug 4, 2004, 9:14 PM
Post #3 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sometimes I whimper and run away.

Sometimes I gut it out.

Others, I self medicate until the feeling passes.

And sometimes I am fearless.

Check out the Warriors Way forum dude, its all about this question.

DMT


nirvana


Aug 4, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #4 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

From your quote on the death wish thread re: Arno:
In reply to:
trying to teach farmers the jedi mind tricks used to fool the body that all is, well, cool.

Arno's stuff is top notch, but I am curious if the only way through fear is the Warrior way. I've fallen on lead, and practiced more falling, and dealt with fear of heights and equipment failure fears, and on and on and on, and I make my increments of improvement, but I also see climbers who seem to be able to work through their fear psyche/chemistry quite effectively and with seemingly little effort. I can't help wondering how they do it.

Is it either you are innately a tough person or you learn the Warrior way? Are there other alternatives that have worked for people, I wonder?


jcr


Aug 4, 2004, 9:26 PM
Post #5 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Try doing a reality check, ask yourself....

Why am I scared?
Am I well protected?
Do I know how to fall?
What can REALLY happen if I fall?
Does my belayer know what he's doing?
How hard are the next moves?
etc...

If you are a responsible climber all the answers to these questions should be positive and help you keep on going.

The idea of this is to get your mind knowing that you are safe.

Hope this helps.

JC


bootleg


Aug 4, 2004, 9:41 PM
Post #6 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2003
Posts: 59

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Singing sometimes helps me, or talking to my belayer. That goes under the keeping your mind off your dangers technique. If you climb trad, sooner or later you will have some run-out climbing. Fear will have to be blocked during this time so you can make the moves to make it up the run-out.


southbayclimber


Aug 4, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #7 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I start shaking, then i set a piece of pro, then i am safe.

I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't climb for the view from thee top. I relish the fear of the climb. I like the feeling during a run out section when all my concentration is up the rock where i can see the crack widening enough for a nut placement.

If you don't want to be afraid, climb lower grades.


Partner tgreene


Aug 4, 2004, 10:08 PM
Post #8 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 7267

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

THINK KARMA PLACEMENTS! :shock:


phillygoat


Aug 4, 2004, 10:14 PM
Post #9 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Recently, I had a very acute sense of fear and was pleased with myself for how I handled it. I began a sport route(that I had never tried before) that was rated within my abilities, but the first clip was pretty high and the landing was dangerous. The first crimps felt decent, so up I went. When my feet were about six feet off of the ground I had a wave of panic and began looking down to see if I could back off, but it felt too thin to do so. My head flooded with fear. Then, some sort of clarity took over as I realized that it would be easier and safer to keep climbing. A second and a deep breath later I was calm and focused- got that first clip and finished the rest of the climb for the on-sight. In this case, neccesity won out over fear- fear was surely going to get me hurt. I hope none of that sounds macho, because I felt anything but macho on that climb!


Partner euroford


Aug 4, 2004, 10:36 PM
Post #10 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i consult my master warning panel as indicated in chapter 18 of FOTHs.

duh.... :roll:

honestly, if i'm scared there usually isn't a rational reason, and if some danger is present it usually doesn't take long for me rationlize my situation and move into problem solving.

odly enough i've not yet to this point in my climbing career ever really developed a moment of true serious fear, i've freaked myself on lead, and i've taken some scary wippers (and avoided some scary wippers), but nothing really gripping (of course, you kinda gotta be a bonehead to epic while craggin in the midwest.....). though it happens EVERY time i head out to do industrial ropped access on a building. despite tons of the sweetest gear money can buy, building anchors off of structural steel and having everything redundant per OSHA (even ropes), dropping over the parapet on a skyscraper is just absolutly freaky. its not like a rock/mountain with cracklines you can protect or a hold you can grip or crack you can jam, all you got is the anchor on the roof above and a big ass void below. despite doing it a couple times a month and doing some way tall buildings i still get scared sick getting ready to head over.

i think part of it also has to do with that i'm rapping buildings for work not recreation. i've done freehanging raps off of single bolts while climbing and not had a moment of anxiety. its allot easier to rap off of something when you've first climbed it i guess.

though as soon as i get out on it with the ropes weighted i just smile and cruise.

photo


petsfed


Aug 4, 2004, 10:52 PM
Post #11 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just keep climbing. If the feeling sticks around, I listen. If it fades, I keep going. You almost always have the option to bail. You don't always have the option to do the route twice.


Partner tyify


Aug 4, 2004, 11:27 PM
Post #12 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 905

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Enter a state of calm. Do not FREAK out as this is the worst thing you can do in the situation. Addrenaline can cloud the brain. Think about what you are going to do and then do it. Simple as that. The doing it is the hard part :wink: . Often times moves that look super sketchy are in truth not to hard.


alpinerock


Aug 4, 2004, 11:46 PM
Post #13 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One thing that really helped me was realizing that i shouldn't plan a climb by where the bolts are i formulate my climb by where the rest holds are, i don't know if that makes sense, but it worked for me. Another thing that has helped me is to formulate a sequence and then as soon as i visualize my self climbing it sucessfully in my head i instantly take action and try it, therefore breaking down the climb into little boulder problems, also keeping my mind off of the grade helps too, i often have my partner choose a climb out of the guide book for me thats he thinks is within my abilitys, he never tells me what grade it is till after i have either completed or lowered off of that particular climb.


chalked4dyno


Aug 5, 2004, 12:40 AM
Post #14 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2004
Posts: 150

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

when I get the jibblies, I just take some deep breaths and try to assess my situation... Am I really gonna die/be mayemed/mildly wounded???

Sometimes when I should be scared, I'm not. That's way worse than being scared. It's healthy to be scared on a X-rated runout near your limit.


modman


Aug 5, 2004, 12:58 AM
Post #15 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 10, 2004
Posts: 52

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

focus


rtc


Aug 5, 2004, 1:37 AM
Post #16 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 53

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

live it......accept it.....embrace it...... its a great motivator :)


mary


Aug 5, 2004, 1:42 AM
Post #17 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2004
Posts: 10

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I like to tell myself how good i will feel when i work thru the fear. It always give me a confidence boost when i overcome a fear on the rock. Mostly i do it by singing some hard core song that pops into my head. Fear must be conqured in order to become a better climber.


alpinedude


Aug 5, 2004, 1:49 AM
Post #18 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 31

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just did my first lead climb last month and I was pleasantly frightened. I looked down to my last piece of pro, realized that I should protect again, and then started shaking ("sewing machine leg" as it's called in FOTH). I was so close to falling, but I told myself to focus and started talking to myself. "It's alright, it's alright, you're going to make it, you're going to make it..."

And I did.


10ftdrp


Aug 5, 2004, 2:00 AM
Post #19 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 14, 2004
Posts: 107

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

think of what will happen if you never try. its jsut falt out dissapointing to stop because of something you can overcome. jsut make yourself calm down and focus on the move you need to make.


galyansrockgirl


Aug 5, 2004, 2:23 AM
Post #20 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 4, 2003
Posts: 36

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have freaked out before when I've climbed. The very first time I toped out on something I started panicking, and don't know why. I'm not afraid of heights. I think I'm more scared of swinging and hitting into something, then anything. The others times that I have freaked out, I just let go, calm down, tell myself I can do it and hear my friends from below motivating me, so I grab back on and finish.


xclimber47


Aug 5, 2004, 3:35 AM
Post #21 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2004
Posts: 54

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, basically the only time I would be nervous on a climb would be leading, and now that I think it through its a lot less scary. If you imagine the exact same move your fretting about as if you were doing it on a top rope, it makes it seem much easier to me. If I get nervous I'm less likely to do any kinda dynamic move or high step ups or stuff like that, but if you calm down you will realize that your mind is making you think things are much harder than they are. Just look at whats in front of you and don't even think about the fact your 10 feet above your last piece of protection, makes things much easier.


organic


Aug 5, 2004, 4:05 AM
Post #22 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 2215

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I try not to think when I climb, otherwise in some less than ideal situations I would be paralyzed by fear. I climb, I free my mind, I say stupid remarks to my belayer but I never think about how far I am above my pro, I either climb or I do not. Do some placements suck sometimes, yeah! But thinking about it is not going to change anything. If it is a bad piece place another, if there is no place then climb higher, if you know you cannot then bail. Do not think just do! I will not fear, fear is the mindkiller.


Partner cracklover


Aug 5, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #23 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Is it either you are innately a tough person or you learn the Warrior way? Are there other alternatives that have worked for people, I wonder?

I am not a tough person. I would give DMT a run for the milk-toast award. But I have to admit that when these threads (and the related ones on falling) come up, I don't really understand the fear issue people seem to have. I wonder, why not?

To me, fear on a climb is just like any other obstacle you meet on a climb - figuring out how to overcome it is part of what makes the climb fulfilling. But I am calm, and perhaps that's my secret weapon. Also, through 25 years of regular bike riding and 10 years of gymnastics when I was a kid, I have no problem with a fear of falling. I do fear bad gear, long runouts, bad weather, impending darkness, big tough looking dudes with handlebar moustaches and motorcyles, and women with poise enough to wrap me around their little finger.

But I guess my point is that I've found my secret weapon, which is to calmly think through the situation, come to a conclusion, and then I have no problem following through with it. But everyone's different.

That's the problem with a "warrior's way". Just keep climbing and Find Your Own Way(TM). Okay, I'm going to TradeMark that phrase and write a book teaching you my step by step method to find your own way.

Anyone remember that line from Life of Brian? "Yes, we are all individuals!" Best line of the movie, IMHO.

GO


overlord


Aug 5, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #24 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i try to ignore it and just focus on the next move.


rockhound71


Aug 5, 2004, 6:49 PM
Post #25 of 68 (5311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pee my pants :oops:

Actually, this what usually happens in a fearful situation with me:

1. I say, "Interesting."
2. I look around and see what my options are. Back off or keep going?
3. I tell myself, "Well, you've got no choice, gotta keep going."

Does it work? For me, so far, so good. As most climbers say, it's 90% mental, and it's true. You just have to suck it up 8^)

Casey


Partner taino


Aug 5, 2004, 6:57 PM
Post #26 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 5371

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here:

In reply to:
I will not fear.
Fear is the mind-killer.
Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
I will face my fear.
I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn my inner eye to see it's path.
Where the fear has gone there will be nothing.
Only I will remain.

Believe it or not, it really does help.

T


jv


Aug 5, 2004, 7:38 PM
Post #27 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 363

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's an excerpt from a 2001 trip report I posted on rec.climbing.

" . . . so we went down to the two face climbs at the far left end of the face: Vanishing Point and Gimme Shelter. VP is the saner of the two, and Shelter was the scene of my long fall a few months ago. But the memory of finishing the lead and feeling almost casual about it was all I could remember. That and the feeling I always have that a bolted face route is a gentler warmup than any gear protected crack. Totally erroneous in this case.

"The pitch is sparsely but adequately protected all the way to the last bolt, which is about 30 feet below the anchor. The crux is between 10 and 20 feet above the last bolt. This time, unlike the previous outing. I knew exactly where to go. But it seemed much harder. I could not get the memory of coming off out of my head. As I pushed higher into the thin part, I felt the first wave of fear ripple through my mind, and churn through my guts. I stood there, unable to move up, fighting the memory of falling off from a few feet above. The longer I stood, the worse it got, until I started to shake. I wondered if Inez could see what was going on, and if she was afraid too. I felt bad that I'd put her in the situation.

"I went into the little routine that has become automatic. Breathe; shake out one foot, then the other; look around for footholds; relax the neck and shoulders; smile; wait for control to return. It rarely does, but I can usually get enough back to keep going. Stiffly, I moved up on the next smudge and another until I could reach the first of two little warts that are the keys to salvation: the gate opened and I walked through to the anchor a few feet higher up. As quickly as it had descended, the suffocating fog of fear lifted and I could again see the rocks, trees, clouds, shadows and light. Inez followed with careful deliberation so as not to make me feel bad."

JV


reno


Aug 5, 2004, 7:45 PM
Post #28 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I usually cry for my mommy.


ikefromla


Aug 5, 2004, 8:07 PM
Post #29 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I do a lot of whining/whimpering.
actually no, i just suck it up as much as possible, knowing that i have no or little reason to actually be scared (i'm a sport climber for god's sake). Yesterday I had a moment though! I jumped on a climb I've done a million or so time, got up to the anchor and for some reason felt unable to clip... too pumped, i dunno... but i looked down and the last bolt was preeeeetty damn far below me. so i thought about it for a second, kinda freaked. then i realized "it's a BOLT, Isaac, just take the fall." so i yelled down "falling" and just let go.. hehehe that was an exciting ride.


gawd


Aug 5, 2004, 8:18 PM
Post #30 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Fear like any emotion is a reaction created by the body to keep one out of harm or danger. The problem with fear is that most people allow it consume them and control their actions and thought leading to irrational actions in some cases and in others it brings them home safely. There is no one way to control fear other then to experience it and move through it. Climbing is dangerous and should be kept that way, if I wanted to live my life without fear I would return to corperate American and immerse myself into the TV nation that so many Americans worship.

Take fear one step at a time and think through it rationally. Is there a ture potential for death or catastrphic injury? If there is then find a way to mitagate and control that fear. Most of the time fear is born out od inexperience or the unkown. People hold themselves to an unrealistic level of reality and thus only work within their false perceptions of who they are. People need to fear grow and become a real person.

Do you think animals feel unneccesary fear? I think not, they sense true danger and react, most do by escaping or working within the "flight" portion of the classic "fight or flight"

All that rock warrior bullshit is a marketing gimmic for weak minded people to label their fears and create excuses, some people do learn from this method but it is still born out of timidness and their apprehension to act on their own accord. This falls in line perfectly with the fear of convenince bolts missing.

Believe in yourself and not what others think or say about you or your actions. Fear is what is bred in TV america and the sedintary lifestyle most people find comfort in.

fuck off!


jt512


Aug 5, 2004, 8:23 PM
Post #31 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Take fear one step at a time and think through it rationally. Is there a ture potential for death or catastrphic injury? If there is then find a way to mitagate and control that fear. Most of the time fear is born out od inexperience or the unkown. People hold themselves to an unrealistic level of reality and thus only work within their false perceptions of who they are. People need to fear grow and become a real person.

All that rock warrior s--- is a marketing gimmic for weak minded people to label their fears and create excuses...

That's a strange statement to make in light of the paragraph right above it, in which you essentially synopsize the Warrior's Way.

-Jay


ikefromla


Aug 5, 2004, 8:36 PM
Post #32 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i like TV. in fact I watch it every day. I'm so proud of myself for being just another MTV-addicted sucker. :roll:


gawd


Aug 5, 2004, 8:41 PM
Post #33 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt

How ironic that I was able to think for myself and come up with my own ideas and without relying on others to think for myself. As I said the rock warrior bullshit is marketing hype so that one person can financially profit from it. Prepackaged reality.


brad_man


Aug 5, 2004, 8:51 PM
Post #34 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 20, 2004
Posts: 37

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gawd- have any examples of how they "market" the warrior technique?
I believe you can get your brain clouded with enough adrenaline to take on warrior-like behavior and power your way through a scary-ass climb, I've done it.

Anyway, usually by the time I'm up on a highball(free) my "spotter" and "friends" are no longer spotting, they're talking about some hairy teacher at school or something (really happened) and laughing while i'm struggling through the crux 25+ ft. up. Then, when I get scared I tell them to shutup...it all gets quiet and they feel my fear, and I throw for the hold while growling, screaming, swearing, etc. and then when I pass the crux they're all like "nice man!" and start talking again....


jt512


Aug 5, 2004, 9:15 PM
Post #35 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
jt

How ironic that I was able to think for myself and come up with my own ideas and without relying on others to think for myself. As I said the rock warrior s--- is marketing hype so that one person can financially profit from it. Prepackaged reality.

It's not marketing hype. Have you read it? Maybe you naturally have a good lead head (or maybe you're poser), but not everyone does. The WW is a systematic approach to dealing effectively with the risks of climbing. It's been damn useful to me, as it has to many climbers.

-Jay


rioclimb


Aug 5, 2004, 10:05 PM
Post #36 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2004
Posts: 42

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

stay cool, trust your gear


lewisiarediviva


Aug 6, 2004, 1:55 AM
Post #37 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2004
Posts: 527

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This is a topic that after two pages weaves it's way into and becomes another topic.

About fear. I wish I was my daughter. Once when she was at a spot that I failed at she cried. She cried three times, each for different lengths of time. I just stood on the ground and waited. Next thing I knew she was up by her dad on top of the rock and said "Gee! That was stressful." She cries.

Myself though. I'm afraid of crying (I've wanted to on many climbs). I'm afraid of falling (never want to do). So I cling to the rock freaked out. I know my belayer will catch me. I'm not afraid of the actuall fall. I'm afraid of what happens between clinging to the rock and the time that gravity starts laughing.

My fear has improved my climbing. I asked my partner once after he pointed out that I had just acomplished something: "Does it count when you do it out of pure fright?"


tahoe_rock_master


Aug 6, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #38 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 172

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Have you guys ever heard the saying: The only thing to fear is fear itself. If you get scared then you will not climb as well and you will become irrational. If I feel fear coming I keep moving and think about my next moves and what I need to do. not falling or about my last piece.

Matt


lewisiarediviva


Aug 6, 2004, 3:16 AM
Post #39 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2004
Posts: 527

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yea, When I end up confrontining fear I never get over the problem until I accept the fear for what it is. The process is picking up pace too. I use to take for ever when the fear hit. I've shortened my "fear time."


phillygoat


Aug 6, 2004, 4:03 AM
Post #40 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OH MY GAWD!? HALLEUJAH! THE PREACHER SPEAKS THE TRUTH!!! :roll:


phillygoat


Aug 6, 2004, 4:10 AM
Post #41 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

"Fear does not exist in this dojo, DOES IT?! NO, SENSEI!"
-The Karate Kid


Partner f_thomas


Aug 6, 2004, 5:20 AM
Post #42 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2003
Posts: 139

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I am very curious about how people deal with fear when they are climbing. Obviously fear happens-- .......... What methods do you use to set your fears aside?

Fear manifests itself in various ways, but a commen denominator to all of us is the "Fright and Flight Syndrome" You'll notice your respiration rate incrase, possibly feel your heart pounding in your chest and get that clamy sweaty feeling. Do we allow our physiological response to fear take control? If so, then the next step is PANIC! And with PANIC a loss of rational behavior. Have you ever tried to help a drowning person or one who thought they were drowning - they'll take you down with them if you aren't careful.

I recently made a 200 ft rappel and in the first ten feet experieinced the physical manifestations of fear, but stopped and: Had a discussion with self. Self, stop this, take a deep breath and let it out slowly and let's get on with the task at hand. The results: the ability to complete the rap without the feeling of fear then panic.

In a stressful or emergency situation your training will take over and you'll perform at levels you didn't think possible. As a fomer helicopter pilot flying Medivac and Mountain Rescue we were constantly confronted with fearfull situations.

Caution is in order, however: The loss or abscence of fear is not a good thing in my mind. It is there for a reason and we should head it's warnings but not be consumed. Focus, identify it's source, address it directly in a rational manner and it will not consume you.

My two cents worth! The Warriors Way is an excellent resource to help you address and deal with fear / panic.


Partner cracklover


Aug 6, 2004, 2:45 PM
Post #43 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
jt

How ironic that I was able to think for myself and come up with my own ideas and without relying on others to think for myself. As I said the rock warrior s--- is marketing hype so that one person can financially profit from it. Prepackaged reality.

It's not marketing hype. Have you read it? Maybe you naturally have a good lead head (or maybe you're poser), but not everyone does. The WW is a systematic approach to dealing effectively with the risks of climbing. It's been damn useful to me, as it has to many climbers.

-Jay

Marketing hype or not - it doesn't really matter. If it's helpful to people, that's all that really matters.

GO


nirvana


Aug 6, 2004, 3:29 PM
Post #44 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Focus, identify it's source, address it directly in a rational manner and it will not consume you.

I was just thinking, as I drove in to work, that in many cases, I've avoided fear/panic by just doing whatever it was that I knew was going to scare me. As soon as I felt the fear start up, I just forged ahead--without thinking about it. This suits my character, because I enjoy being impulsive--but later, in retrospect, I wonder if I am supposed to stop and look at the fear before I get a jump on it by just taking action.

In relation to climbing, which I am relatively new to (less than a year), I am trying to walk a balance between forging ahead and knowing what the hell I'm doing. On the one hand, say on a scary rappel, I can feel the fear, I can quickly review my tie in/set up, review my anchor, and then just go for it before I've had time to get all panicky. On the other hand, I sometimes think "Okay, you THINK you are making all of the safety checks you need to--but are you overlooking something crucial, newbie??" :shock:

Seems like my "rational" mind is stirring up some of the problems...


Partner jammer


Aug 6, 2004, 3:54 PM
Post #45 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What is fear? It's not knowing what is going to happen next. If you stop and think about it, nobody really knows what is going to happen in the future, so the only thing to fear is fear itself.

That said, I can't think of anyone who has not felt fear in their life. How I handel it is by relaxing and focusing on the now ... break down the route to the next move, realizing that you are safe and if you do fall, your belayer will hold you, but then ... I only sport climb ... never had the chance to trad.


inf11b


Aug 8, 2004, 5:12 AM
Post #46 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 22

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When confronted with fear, do one of two things:
A) Deal with it like a man, ensure you are actually safe, then drive on
B) Scream like a little girl and hold on to the wall until someone helps you to safety.


Seriously, if you get an irrational fear, just do more of whatever makes you afraid. If that doesnt work jump out of an airplane a few times. If that doesnt work, jump out of an airplane with a chute made by the lowest bidder and packed by a disgruntled 19yr old.


Partner coldclimb


Aug 8, 2004, 5:28 AM
Post #47 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sometimes I just back off, compose myself, and try again, and it works.


despot


Aug 8, 2004, 1:49 PM
Post #48 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 9

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Fear is a reflex, like all reflexes it can be overcome with propper training and rational thought...

But that would suck... fear rocks, the feeling of your heart pounding in your chest and the sense of acomplishment when you beat it back down into your belly and get the hell on with what your doing... is truly worthwhile.


cg


Aug 8, 2004, 2:27 PM
Post #49 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2003
Posts: 39

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Breathe... always remember to breathe because it's hard to think properly when your brain is deprived of oxygen.


nirvana


Aug 8, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #50 of 68 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
if you get an irrational fear, just do more of whatever makes you afraid. If that doesnt work jump out of an airplane a few times. If that doesnt work, jump out of an airplane with a chute made by the lowest bidder and packed by a disgruntled 19yr old.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


dingus


Aug 8, 2004, 6:00 PM
Post #51 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
When confronted with fear, do one of two things:
A) Deal with it like a man, ensure you are actually safe, then drive on
B) Scream like a little girl and hold on to the wall until someone helps you to safety.

I have two daughters. I have discovered that this line of reasoning is not productive. They will happily scream like little girls and wait till someone helps them top safety. They don't seem particularly interested in acting like men.

"But Pop, we ARE little girls, DORK!"

Women! Sheesh!

DMT


Partner climbinginchico


Aug 8, 2004, 6:05 PM
Post #52 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I take a deep breath, clear my mind, and do it.


fallenfreesoloist


Aug 8, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #53 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 10, 2004
Posts: 48

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if logically you know you wont get hurt(like wen your sport leading on a route with no bad falls) but your above a bolt or bomber gear your just phyking yourself out. weight the fall consequenses and either commit of dont commit.


tcantor333


Aug 8, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #54 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 19, 2004
Posts: 71

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I once heard a wise and experienced trad climber say: When in doubt, run it out. It's always seemed to work for me.


jt512


Aug 9, 2004, 5:46 PM
Post #55 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I once heard a wise and experienced trad climber say: When in doubt, run it out. It's always seemed to work for me.

That works every time until it doesn't.

-Jay


bishop


Aug 9, 2004, 6:43 PM
Post #56 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 192

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sometimes I will talk myself past the crux of a climb that is sketching me out.... the best thing is to keep breathing... the body will tense up if you change your breathing pattern... its best to keep it rythmic and calm


usmc_2tothetop


Aug 9, 2004, 6:54 PM
Post #57 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 661

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Check out the Warriors Way Forum or read the book. But yea I think I crack jokes or sing a parody of a song. Dave Chapell seems to help. That or I like ot swear at my belayer. (Good friend of mine)


the_antoon


Aug 9, 2004, 7:15 PM
Post #58 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 428

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just concentrate...don't think about what can happen if something goes wrong. Think about what you need to do and do it.

The more you climb, the more comfortable you'll feel on the rock and the less afraid you will be.


clydefrog


Aug 9, 2004, 7:24 PM
Post #59 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 2, 2003
Posts: 2

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hum the HALO theme song to yourself, its real pump up


krispy


Feb 2, 2005, 8:22 PM
Post #60 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 4

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well i have been climbing for like 3 years.. and i was just starting to lead climb on a trad route.i climbed it clean for 8 or 9 times.. and i could climb a full grade higher that it.. so i learned how to place pro. and i went to go lead a nice 5.9 trad route that i have cleaned and climbin with not prob. so i started to go up the first pitch with not a trouble..an as i was a lil over 70-75 feet up i was placeing a cam my foot sliped and fell and zippered 20 or so feet.. i was soo scared and in fear.. all i could do i to hang and rest a lil bit. but i kept tellin my self if i didn't finish this route i would have not ever climbed ever again... so i finished and just glad that i only had that accident the whole trip. and now im glad that i didn't quiet.

krispy


krispy


Feb 2, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #61 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 4

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well i have been climbing for like 3 years.. and i was just starting to lead climb on a trad route.i climbed it clean for 8 or 9 times.. and i could climb a full grade higher that it.. so i learned how to place pro. and i went to go lead a nice 5.9 trad route that i have cleaned and climbin with not prob. so i started to go up the first pitch with not a trouble..an as i was a lil over 70-75 feet up i was placeing a cam my foot sliped and fell and zippered 20 or so feet.. i was soo scared and in fear.. all i could do i to hang and rest a lil bit. but i kept tellin my self if i didn't finish this route i would have not ever climbed ever again... so i finished and just glad that i only had that accident the whole trip. and now im glad that i didn't quiet.

krispy


krispy


Feb 2, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #62 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 4

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well i have been climbing for like 3 years.. and i was just starting to lead climb on a trad route.i climbed it clean for 8 or 9 times.. and i could climb a full grade higher that it.. so i learned how to place pro. and i went to go lead a nice 5.9 trad route that i have cleaned and climbin with not prob. so i started to go up the first pitch with not a trouble..an as i was a lil over 70-75 feet up i was placeing a cam my foot sliped and fell and zippered 20 or so feet.. i was soo scared and in fear.. all i could do i to hang and rest a lil bit. but i kept tellin my self if i didn't finish this route i would have not ever climbed ever again... so i finished and just glad that i only had that accident the whole trip. and now im glad that i didn't quiet.

krispy


mrmons


Feb 2, 2005, 8:30 PM
Post #63 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 115

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If I'm afraid, then I know I'm alive. There's no feeling like it. I try to focus as best I can and tell myself that the fear is not as strong as my will.

All that and I still won't go on a rollercoaster. :?

Mr. Mons :twisted:


sinshan


Feb 2, 2005, 9:27 PM
Post #64 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Is it either you are innately a tough person or you learn the Warrior way? Are there other alternatives that have worked for people, I wonder?


Seems to me that folks have differing levels of ability to "connect" with their strength, control, patience, clarity and all those things we need when we're doing something that is inherently dangerous like climbing.

Try practicing "getting in the zone" outside of climbing, or, when climbing at times that you feel safe and secure. Some folks use intentional activities like yoga to practice their ability to focus, pay attention to the moment, their body, internal strength, etc. This has helped me the most, along with what someone else posted earlier, about asking questions like "Why do I feel fear right now? Do I see the route? Do I have the appropriate gear? Do I see the options available?"

Fear closes down options, and it's your job to open back up and see "the way through," whether that's climbing on, downclimbing, not climbing at all in the first place, whatever. And somehow you've got to balance body, mind and spirit in a way that works most to your advantage. So, take a deep breath and get out of your own way! You know what to do.

Also, I always remind myself that I LOVE Climbing, and that I do it for peace and fun and fulfillment.

peace out,
t


pettsnjam


Feb 2, 2005, 9:59 PM
Post #65 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2000
Posts: 89

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The key for me is not to look down!

hahah I love heights!!! :roll:


steph


Feb 3, 2005, 12:02 AM
Post #66 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 17, 2005
Posts: 15

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i agree with modman... focus is the key. i actually also find that most fear happens before the climb begins, and once you start cranking the fear factor fades. there's always the risks though and it's up to each person as to how far they're prepared to go. just make rational decisions and u should live a long and healthy life. :)


boss


Feb 3, 2005, 1:07 AM
Post #67 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 235

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I usually pull up some Boston in my head and start singin' under my breath. Kinda strange, but it works for me.


kpj240789


Feb 3, 2005, 2:15 AM
Post #68 of 68 (4958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 232

Re: Fear: What do you do? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I get scared very easily but you have to just keep climbing and eventually you just get used to it.


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook