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kansasclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 3:13 AM
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Really this is the grade we would all like to get to, *in my opinion. I am just below this right now. I spent all summer trying to tick one and just coming aganizingly close. But i do believe im not there, YET. For those of you who can climb at this level, even if you have only done one or 2 of these ratings, what did you notice you had to improve on in order to do so. I am kindda going off the thread, climbing "harder" boulder problems. There was good info on there, but thought i might be able to get more specific answers here.
My finger strength is not lacking. I have established that. I worked on my lock-off strength but it still needs to get better. Maybe some feet work. Personally, and correct me if im wrong. I believe to climb V10, it takes strength and lots of it. Period! I have heard just get stronger core wise, and you will be able to climb harder problems, is this true? If so how do i do this? Thanks for all the replies!
Stephen
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: Really this is the grade we would all like to get to, *in my opinion.
Why?
Curt
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send513
Sep 1, 2004, 3:18 AM
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climb more v9's, the 10's will happen.
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herm
Sep 1, 2004, 3:46 AM
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double didgets have a high cool factor.........
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cin
Sep 1, 2004, 3:55 AM
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patience kansasclimber-san
have faith, and keep trying!
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mistymountainhop
Sep 1, 2004, 4:02 AM
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Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers.
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jonapprill
Sep 1, 2004, 4:02 AM
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Are we talking indoor V10's here Kansasclimber? Normally I wouldn't ask but your profile about only climbing outside a few times kinda threw me..............
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 4:07 AM
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In reply to: Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers.
You are trying to get nominated for "Gumby of the Year," aren't you?
Curt
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canadiangrl
Sep 1, 2004, 4:13 AM
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Brute determination, and some skill to climb up a perfectly flat piece of rock.
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iclimblilrocks
Sep 1, 2004, 5:05 AM
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can someone please help me out by compareing boulder rateings to climbing rateings...
I did a "v1-v0" yesterday I only know this because of a freind telling me, he said that it was around 5.10 so wouldnt this mean that v10 is like 5.0?
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 5:57 AM
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Stephen,
I'll be real blunt with you my friend. You are very strong, you have what it takes, You Will go far beyond V10, you may have hit a plateau, for the time being, but I might be able to help you. SYSTEM BOARD TRAINING, I'm sure you know who of the Huber brothers , right, well about tens years ago they started developing a system of training that entailed very rigorous and regimented workouts. The method involves sets of reps on a specialy set up climbing wall, with varying degree's of steepness. The training is not campusing, and wont hurt your fingers or tendons. I personally used this method one winter, and in the next summer I flew up anything that had previously kicked my ass. I being serious and cool with ya man, PM me for more detailed info if you're interested, or if this post was taken wrong I'll piss off.
Just trying to help ya man, Matt. :D :D :D
There are ways to accelerated your abilities, you don't have to work on tons of V9's.
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vanclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 1:16 PM
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In reply to: I believe to climb V10, it takes strength and lots of it. Period!
I'm sure it does, but one boulderer that I spoke to who was also working on a V10 told me that he thinks when you get above V8, bouldering hard has a lot to do with technical movement like precise heel hook placements and balancy moves.
Don
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grayhghost
Sep 1, 2004, 1:31 PM
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step 1:
go to an overrated place such as Joe's Valley or Triassic.
step 2:
look for the crowds of people in the little, dirty
caves.
step 3:
find the worst looking cave problem with the most glue
and the sharpest holds
step 4:
climb this problem, and even though it was rated V9 just
tell everyone it is a hard V9 and really should be a V10.
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kansasclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 4:21 PM
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I know this is not the greatest place for this, but i really wanted to just get the views from people that have ben in my postion. And yeah, my profile is wrong, im just too lazy to change it. Im talking real rock. If someone says they boulder V10 on plastic. I say they could do V6 outdoors... But i was in colorado all summer, and just never got there is all....
Stephen
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climb_plastic
Sep 1, 2004, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: Are we talking indoor V10's here Kansasclimber? Normally I wouldn't ask but your profile about only climbing outside a few times kinda threw me..............
From his post it sounds like he just wants to get strong enough to climb V10 so he can be a "V10 climber". It doesn't really matter where and what climb it is as long as he can climb a V10.
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iclimbtoo
Sep 1, 2004, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- mistymountainhop wrote: Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers. You are trying to get nominated for "Gumby of the Year," aren't you? Curt
LOL!!! ROTFLMAO!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I would definitely say what you wear plays into it. You need spandex and high socks to boulder V10. If it's gym climbing, you can get away with crew level socks, but no less!
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gambler
Sep 1, 2004, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: Really this is the grade we would all like to get to
You wont be satisfied because once you send a V10 you will want to send a V11 :roll:
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irockz
Sep 1, 2004, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: Brute determination, and some skill to climb up a perfectly flat piece of rock.
i agree. it's all about flat rocks.
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actionfigure
Sep 1, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Just keep chasin' those #'s :cry:
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bvb
Sep 1, 2004, 7:29 PM
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call me crazy, but i think climbing boulders is more fun than climbing grades.
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ccharles
Sep 1, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades. Just because you are not motivated by grades, or don't care about them, doesn't mean you should tell someone else that they shouldn't care about them. And as much as you don't like (or claim not to), how would you like a guidebook with quality ratings, but no difficulty ratings? Thats right, it would suck.
I don't think there is anything wrong with setting a goal of attaining a certain grade. It doesn't mean you don't like climbing, you still have fun climbing trying to attain your goal, and you also get satisfaction if you do reach your goal.
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youmeanupthere
Sep 1, 2004, 7:56 PM
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I wonder if the original poster had asked his question in a different manner if he might have gotten better feedback. Essentially he has a training question with a goal in mind. Unfortunately on this website such questions cant be asked if the goal is stated. Its automatically assumed that he is shallow and egotistical. The gentlemans input about the Huber bros system is a good place to look. I also believe the feedback about climbing more 9's is good too. Ratings do come and go and change and are subjective and are wrong etc. Although what level he is climbing at is pertinent to his question since training for 5.8 or A3 or V10 is different. I hope you find what your looking for. Conversely, stating that eveyones goal is to do V10 will always garner smart remarks. It surely isnt my goal. I dont train to climb so I dont have much to offer besides knowing that if your having fun with it you are much more likely to improve.
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climb_plastic
Sep 1, 2004, 9:27 PM
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In reply to: stating that eveyones goal is to do V10 will always garner smart remarks.
It's not everyone's goal but I'm sure those who can't send V10 sure would be happy if they could. It's just like bowling...sure it's fun to play no matter how bad you are at it but you want to get better. Most people that play regularly know what their high score is (at least approximately) and would love to beat it and everyone else in the bowling alley. Just like in climbing...you're doing it because it's fun but most (maybe all but some won't admit it) people who climb regularly know how hard they can climb and what's the hardest grade they've ever climbed and they would be happy if they could climb harder, and climb harder than everyone else at the crag for that matter.
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 9:40 PM
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In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades.
That statement by itself is totally incorrect.
Curt
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actionfigure
Sep 1, 2004, 9:46 PM
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Driven by glory? :? It's not my goal to chase numbers on pebbles.
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muncher
Sep 1, 2004, 10:35 PM
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I agree with climb_plastic, it's all about bowling. The similarities are uncanny, ie 10 Pins and V10. Blowling is definetely the secret.
And maybe the shoes, V10's of course, not sure how you would climb V11 though, they must make special models for the pros.
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bvb
Sep 1, 2004, 10:44 PM
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In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades.
hmmm. actually, i know i'm pushing my limits when i've tried something 30 times and i'm barely doing the first move.
but whatever, n00b. keep chasing those numbers. we all choose to validate our lives in our own way.
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muncher
Sep 1, 2004, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades. hmmm. actually, i know i'm pushing my limits when i've tried something 30 times and i'm barely doing the first move. but whatever, n00b. keep chasing those numbers. we all choose to validate our lives in our own way.
Exactly bvb, like would you call pushing your limits sending a soft v8 or getting spanked on a sandbag v5?? WTF does a number matter, just get out there and try as hard as you can. You are the only one who knows how much effort you put into something and that should be the way you measure if you are pushingn your limits or not.
Then again I do recall this topic being mentioned before, once or twice I think.
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 11:00 PM
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For anyone who hasn't PM'd me Im tagging a page onto my website that describes in detail system board training, If you want more info on it PM me, k. Later Matt.
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ccharles
Sep 2, 2004, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades. hmmm. actually, i know i'm pushing my limits when i've tried something 30 times and i'm barely doing the first move. but whatever, n00b. keep chasing those numbers. we all choose to validate our lives in our own way.
I didn't say "trying things that are well beyond your current abilities", I said "pushing your limits", meaning climbing things now that you could not climb a year ago.
As for the insightful "n00b" comment, part of my point was that if you don't care about numbers, that is fine, but it doesn't mean that noone else should care about numbers, and it doesn' t make it your job to crucify those who do.
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ccharles
Sep 2, 2004, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades. That statement by itself is totally incorrect. Curt
True, that was exaggaration. If you climb something today (regardless of the grade) that you could not climb a month ago, then you can be pretty sure that you are getting stronger. But grades do provide a convenient way to gauge your overall progress.
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boz84
Sep 2, 2004, 6:42 PM
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As was said, some people like climbing hard routes, there is nothing wrong wit this whatsoever.
In fact, there isnt even anything wrong with someone wanting to climb hard routes for the sake of climbing hard routes.
kansanclimber doesnt seem to me (yet) that hes the type that would want to climb v10's, so that he can label himself a v10 climber, merely to push himself to his limits.
When I do a route graded harder than I have previously been done before Im elated.
Why?
Because I see climbing as a great hobby, but also as a phenomenal form of exercise, mentally and physically. As I progress through the grades, it is a tangible piece of evidence that I have improved. Maybe Ive gotten my balance better, maybe my contact strength has improved, WHATEVER.
But different strokes for different folks, and remember, above all: climbing is about fun, and its no fun to be knockin on people just because they dont share the same views as you.
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kansasclimber
Sep 2, 2004, 6:46 PM
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The last post said it best. If i boulder V10, do you think i will inroduce my self as hi, my nmae is stephen and i climb V10, heck no. It is a way merely for me to become more motivated, for the next problem, and the problem after that. I know its an ongoing cycle, but people your missing the point. I have set a goal for myself, im trying to schieve that goal. Just thought i could get some help, nah, just critizism.... Thanks for all of those who understood my post.
Stephen
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mattmax45
Sep 4, 2004, 5:29 AM
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In reply to: The last post said it best. If i boulder V10, do you think i will inroduce my self as hi, my nmae is stephen and i climb V10, heck no. It is a way merely for me to become more motivated, for the next problem, and the problem after that. I know its an ongoing cycle, but people your missing the point. I have set a goal for myself, im trying to schieve that goal. Just thought i could get some help, nah, just critizism.... Thanks for all of those who understood my post. Stephen
Did you think I was fuck--g with you about the training?
I was trying to be helpful my friend, and I used this "System Board Training" to further myself and unless you didn't read my post, maybe you should, it took me way farther than anything else I have tried yet.
And believe me KC, I've tried most types of training at one time or another, from campus to heavy wieghts, and none came close, but hay what do I know. :roll:
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munchkin
Sep 5, 2004, 7:31 PM
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I think that it takes practice and training to climb hard, regardless of the rateing. In an old issue of Climbing or Rock and Ice there is an page or two about a trainning program that John Long found called "The New Work Out Form Hell" I haven't done it, but John Long climbs pritty frickn' hard, so mabie this is a place to start. hope that helps.
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bucephalus
Oct 29, 2004, 11:26 AM
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I'm not a V10 climber, but I have climbed one or two V10s and that's mainly due to the fact that I found problems that suited me, and tried them until I did them. One of which I did because I wanted that elusive V10 tick - it took 4 visits and about 50 tries to stick the crux move. And it was a mistake, I wasted so much time on a stupid problem.
The other, I did despite not thinking I'd get near it, but I tried it because it looked fun. It took me all of 4 goes, after a full days climbing.
I honestly think that if you really want to find a V10 to climb, you will find one that suits you perfectly, but then hey, is it really a V10??
Quit chasing grades and go out and climb a piece of rock that inspires you.
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drrock
Oct 29, 2004, 1:37 PM
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edit
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jcr
Oct 29, 2004, 3:51 PM
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In reply to: I did a "v1-v0" yesterday I only know this because of a freind telling me, he said that it was around 5.10 so wouldnt this mean that v10 is like 5.0?
I think you are a little off here compadre, V0 is around 5.10d, so do the math.....
This is what RC.com has:
V0 5.10d
V1 5.11a
V2 5.11bc
V3 5.11d
V4 5.12a
V5 5.12bc
V6 5.12d
V7 5.13a
V8 5.13bc
V9 5.13d
V10 5.14a
V11 5.14b
V12 5.14c
V13 5.14d
V14 5.15a
JC
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kalcario
Oct 29, 2004, 4:20 PM
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The rc.com v-grade-to-yds chart used above is wildly off, for 12d to equal v6 means that you should be able to do both, but many people who climb 12d regularly have no chance on v6 and vice versa. Not sure how you'd compare routes to boulder problems anyway...you can, though, compare the hardest individual move(s) on a route to a boulder problem, and for routes where endurance is a component, the chart below is a much more accurate reflection of the crux difficulty of a given yds grade:
V0 5.11d
V1 5.12a
V2 5.12b
V3 5.12c
V4 5.12d
V5 5.13a
V6 5.13b
V7 5.13c
V8 5.13d
V9 5.14a
V10 5.14b
V11 5.14c
V12 5.14d
Note that there are big exceptions, like the 5.15a Sharma route Realization which has only a v9 crux, or To Bolt or Not to Be (14a) at Smith which has no moves harder than v3.
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pushsendnorcal
Oct 29, 2004, 4:42 PM
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It is amazing the amount of posts that don't actually help the original poster at all.
So to the original poster, whatever you id is, hope this helps.
First off know that in order to push the grades you will need a base behind you. Its unlikely to climb V10 if you have only done 2 V9s and 3 V8s. The more of a base the more likely yoiu will climb V10 reguardless of the problems style.
In terms of becoming stronger, I would say the number one goal is to pick out your biggest weaknesses in both strength/power training and in climbing movement and create a planned structure to train those weaknesses. In addition, always work your core even if it is your strong point.
Strength (the ability to hold onto grip)
-Fingerboard is the most absolute best device for finger strength, used correctly. You want to focus on hanging between 6-9seconds, 3-6sets and 2-4min of rest between sets. Either add weight or increase asistance to accomplish the time perimeters. You should also work between 3-5 grips.
Power (the ability to move between grips)
-Campusboard and bar training.
For campusboarding, your aim should be moving the greatest lengths between rungs. Plyometerics don't help with power so don't be jaded into thinking that is the pinnacle of campusing.
-Bar training is a pull-up bar, where you can do anything 1-arm lock-offs, negatives and so forth.
PM me for more info
Hope this helps and work your weaknesses
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t-dog
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Oct 29, 2004, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: double didgets have a high cool factor.........
In that case, you'ld be much better off tying into a rope, double digits are much easier that way :D
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flatlandsclimber
Oct 29, 2004, 6:11 PM
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I'm not real sure where this grade comparison came from, but if I were a grade chaser I'd move to wherever you are. This would make every climb SUPER SOFT
V0 5.11d
V1 5.12a
V2 5.12b
V3 5.12c
V4 5.12d
V5 5.13a
V6 5.13b
V7 5.13c
V8 5.13d
V9 5.14a
V10 5.14b
V11 5.14c
V12 5.14d
Note that there are big exceptions, like the 5.15a Sharma route Realization which has only a v9 crux, or To Bolt or Not to Be (14a) at Smith which has no moves harder than v3.
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caughtinside
Oct 29, 2004, 6:16 PM
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Flatlander--you missed kalcario's point.
The problem is that you can't make a comparison between the two. A 12d does not have a v6 crux.
Its not about soft ratings, its about different rating systems to grade different types of climbs.
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curt
Oct 29, 2004, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: I'm not real sure where this grade comparison came from, but if I were a grade chaser I'd move to wherever you are. This would make every climb SUPER SOFT V0 5.11d V1 5.12a V2 5.12b V3 5.12c V4 5.12d V5 5.13a V6 5.13b V7 5.13c V8 5.13d V9 5.14a V10 5.14b V11 5.14c V12 5.14d Note that there are big exceptions, like the 5.15a Sharma route Realization which has only a v9 crux, or To Bolt or Not to Be (14a) at Smith which has no moves harder than v3.
Perhaps you shouldn't be so quick to post things that you know absolutely nothing about. Thanks for your understanding in this matter.
I'm Curt - and I approve this message. :wink:
Curt
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curt
Oct 29, 2004, 6:44 PM
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In reply to: Flatlander--you missed kalcario's point. The problem is that you can't make a comparison between the two. A 12d does not have a v6 crux.
Kalcario is only partially right--as I have pointed out previously. If you are looking at a 5.12c/d climb with a short, hard crux that eases up thereafter (like Kama Sutra, in the Gunks, for example) then a route of that grade does have a V5/V6 section to it. However, if you are looking at a endurance based route, the hardest move on a 5.12c/d route may indeed be no harder than V3.
Curt
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orangekrush626
Oct 29, 2004, 7:01 PM
Post #46 of 47
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Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 25
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I have climbed V8 in the gym as well as V7 outdoors. I've been told recently that these are somewhat moderate grades. I'm not sure, I dislike grades. In climbing magazine there was a quote, pardon me but I know not by whom, that "you should climb what inspires you. " I have seen and tried V10 outdoors. I get stuck on the movement the body must react to. It does seem as if the placement rquired for all four limbs becomes more precise and balancy. I'm looking for tips as well. Any would help.
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kansasclimber
Oct 31, 2004, 11:40 PM
Post #47 of 47
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 541
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Thanks for all the replies! Espevailly to the ones that gave me work outs, im woring on them right now!
Stephen
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