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kansasclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 3:13 AM
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Really this is the grade we would all like to get to, *in my opinion. I am just below this right now. I spent all summer trying to tick one and just coming aganizingly close. But i do believe im not there, YET. For those of you who can climb at this level, even if you have only done one or 2 of these ratings, what did you notice you had to improve on in order to do so. I am kindda going off the thread, climbing "harder" boulder problems. There was good info on there, but thought i might be able to get more specific answers here.
My finger strength is not lacking. I have established that. I worked on my lock-off strength but it still needs to get better. Maybe some feet work. Personally, and correct me if im wrong. I believe to climb V10, it takes strength and lots of it. Period! I have heard just get stronger core wise, and you will be able to climb harder problems, is this true? If so how do i do this? Thanks for all the replies!
Stephen
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: Really this is the grade we would all like to get to, *in my opinion.
Why?
Curt
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send513
Sep 1, 2004, 3:18 AM
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climb more v9's, the 10's will happen.
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herm
Sep 1, 2004, 3:46 AM
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double didgets have a high cool factor.........
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cin
Sep 1, 2004, 3:55 AM
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patience kansasclimber-san
have faith, and keep trying!
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mistymountainhop
Sep 1, 2004, 4:02 AM
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Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers.
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jonapprill
Sep 1, 2004, 4:02 AM
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Are we talking indoor V10's here Kansasclimber? Normally I wouldn't ask but your profile about only climbing outside a few times kinda threw me..............
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 4:07 AM
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In reply to: Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers.
You are trying to get nominated for "Gumby of the Year," aren't you?
Curt
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canadiangrl
Sep 1, 2004, 4:13 AM
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Brute determination, and some skill to climb up a perfectly flat piece of rock.
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iclimblilrocks
Sep 1, 2004, 5:05 AM
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can someone please help me out by compareing boulder rateings to climbing rateings...
I did a "v1-v0" yesterday I only know this because of a freind telling me, he said that it was around 5.10 so wouldnt this mean that v10 is like 5.0?
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 5:57 AM
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Stephen,
I'll be real blunt with you my friend. You are very strong, you have what it takes, You Will go far beyond V10, you may have hit a plateau, for the time being, but I might be able to help you. SYSTEM BOARD TRAINING, I'm sure you know who of the Huber brothers , right, well about tens years ago they started developing a system of training that entailed very rigorous and regimented workouts. The method involves sets of reps on a specialy set up climbing wall, with varying degree's of steepness. The training is not campusing, and wont hurt your fingers or tendons. I personally used this method one winter, and in the next summer I flew up anything that had previously kicked my ass. I being serious and cool with ya man, PM me for more detailed info if you're interested, or if this post was taken wrong I'll piss off.
Just trying to help ya man, Matt. :D :D :D
There are ways to accelerated your abilities, you don't have to work on tons of V9's.
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vanclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 1:16 PM
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In reply to: I believe to climb V10, it takes strength and lots of it. Period!
I'm sure it does, but one boulderer that I spoke to who was also working on a V10 told me that he thinks when you get above V8, bouldering hard has a lot to do with technical movement like precise heel hook placements and balancy moves.
Don
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grayhghost
Sep 1, 2004, 1:31 PM
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step 1:
go to an overrated place such as Joe's Valley or Triassic.
step 2:
look for the crowds of people in the little, dirty
caves.
step 3:
find the worst looking cave problem with the most glue
and the sharpest holds
step 4:
climb this problem, and even though it was rated V9 just
tell everyone it is a hard V9 and really should be a V10.
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kansasclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 4:21 PM
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I know this is not the greatest place for this, but i really wanted to just get the views from people that have ben in my postion. And yeah, my profile is wrong, im just too lazy to change it. Im talking real rock. If someone says they boulder V10 on plastic. I say they could do V6 outdoors... But i was in colorado all summer, and just never got there is all....
Stephen
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climb_plastic
Sep 1, 2004, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: Are we talking indoor V10's here Kansasclimber? Normally I wouldn't ask but your profile about only climbing outside a few times kinda threw me..............
From his post it sounds like he just wants to get strong enough to climb V10 so he can be a "V10 climber". It doesn't really matter where and what climb it is as long as he can climb a V10.
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iclimbtoo
Sep 1, 2004, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- mistymountainhop wrote: Ehhhh, Rc.com def. isnt the place to find v10 boulderers. it seems as if an overwhelming majority of people here have little climbing experience that is only in a gym, let alone boulder v10. Sorry to hear that you nevermade slide of hand, my advice is keep working and to climb w/ v10+ climbers. You are trying to get nominated for "Gumby of the Year," aren't you? Curt
LOL!!! ROTFLMAO!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I would definitely say what you wear plays into it. You need spandex and high socks to boulder V10. If it's gym climbing, you can get away with crew level socks, but no less!
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gambler
Sep 1, 2004, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: Really this is the grade we would all like to get to
You wont be satisfied because once you send a V10 you will want to send a V11 :roll:
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irockz
Sep 1, 2004, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: Brute determination, and some skill to climb up a perfectly flat piece of rock.
i agree. it's all about flat rocks.
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actionfigure
Sep 1, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Just keep chasin' those #'s :cry:
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bvb
Sep 1, 2004, 7:29 PM
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call me crazy, but i think climbing boulders is more fun than climbing grades.
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ccharles
Sep 1, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades. Just because you are not motivated by grades, or don't care about them, doesn't mean you should tell someone else that they shouldn't care about them. And as much as you don't like (or claim not to), how would you like a guidebook with quality ratings, but no difficulty ratings? Thats right, it would suck.
I don't think there is anything wrong with setting a goal of attaining a certain grade. It doesn't mean you don't like climbing, you still have fun climbing trying to attain your goal, and you also get satisfaction if you do reach your goal.
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youmeanupthere
Sep 1, 2004, 7:56 PM
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I wonder if the original poster had asked his question in a different manner if he might have gotten better feedback. Essentially he has a training question with a goal in mind. Unfortunately on this website such questions cant be asked if the goal is stated. Its automatically assumed that he is shallow and egotistical. The gentlemans input about the Huber bros system is a good place to look. I also believe the feedback about climbing more 9's is good too. Ratings do come and go and change and are subjective and are wrong etc. Although what level he is climbing at is pertinent to his question since training for 5.8 or A3 or V10 is different. I hope you find what your looking for. Conversely, stating that eveyones goal is to do V10 will always garner smart remarks. It surely isnt my goal. I dont train to climb so I dont have much to offer besides knowing that if your having fun with it you are much more likely to improve.
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climb_plastic
Sep 1, 2004, 9:27 PM
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In reply to: stating that eveyones goal is to do V10 will always garner smart remarks.
It's not everyone's goal but I'm sure those who can't send V10 sure would be happy if they could. It's just like bowling...sure it's fun to play no matter how bad you are at it but you want to get better. Most people that play regularly know what their high score is (at least approximately) and would love to beat it and everyone else in the bowling alley. Just like in climbing...you're doing it because it's fun but most (maybe all but some won't admit it) people who climb regularly know how hard they can climb and what's the hardest grade they've ever climbed and they would be happy if they could climb harder, and climb harder than everyone else at the crag for that matter.
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 9:40 PM
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In reply to: Some people get motivated by pushing their limits, and the only way to gauge if you are doing this is with grades.
That statement by itself is totally incorrect.
Curt
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actionfigure
Sep 1, 2004, 9:46 PM
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Driven by glory? :? It's not my goal to chase numbers on pebbles.
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