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mattm
Dec 8, 2004, 12:11 AM
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I've seen one pitch cracks, off width tours, multi pitch sport etc etc
Lets see some lists from the climbing style thats WAY outa style right now
Also - If you've got any good stories (and the style often creates them) - Do tell!
Here's a start (some I've done others are goals)
Squamish, BC:
Dream Symphony - 11b
Dancing In The Light - 11b/c
Local Boys Do Good - 11a
Magic Carpet Ride - 11c
WA:
On Line - 10b
Dreamer - 9?
Yosemite:
Crest Jewel - 10a
Hall of Mirrors (Sick) 12c
Galactic Hitchhiker 11b?
Dream symphony was the most memorable slab I've done. I can remember getting on the first 10d pitch and being WAY out above the bolt on tiny little crimps. I was working out the crux move WITH MY SHOES SLIDING OFF THE HOLDS. I was looking at a good 50'+ slide and somehow managed to move up while gravity was pulling me down. It was like slipping out of the clutches of a villain in a movie. Jeeezus - what was I doing here? Sadly, when I got to the crux 11b pitch the sun decided to come out (is was early sept) and essentially BAKED me off the rock. My shoes started melting off everything. Worst part? I wrapped and have to go back and do it AGAIN. Sweeet
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rjavery10
Dec 8, 2004, 12:20 AM
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I can't remember all of the good slabs I've climbed (an ever growing list).
But I did do one at Big Bear, CA this summer that went at 11d. The crazy thing was that my second had to do it at 12a or so because half the holds I used fell off as soon as I moved off of them. Scary stuff.
Heart and Sole (10a) in J Tree is good.
I TR'ed my way half way up New Deal (13d) in J Tree but I think the first half is no more than 12b. Talk about a sick slab!
I loves the slab climbing though. Get me on an overhanging face and its 5.10 for me.
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bandycoot
Dec 8, 2004, 12:24 AM
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Goals:
Galactic Hitchhiker 11b
Valhalla 11a
Crest Jewel 10a
Memorable Slabs:
EBGBs 10d
Chingadera 11a
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karlbaba
Dec 8, 2004, 12:33 AM
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I've been up the first 7 pitches of Hall of Mirrors a few times (11b to the top of 7)
That thing is so thin, and so low angle but so continuous, that I was making 10d moves 15 feet past my last bolt, then falling, but avoiding a 35 foot fall by grabbing the sling on the bolt on my way past it. The rock is so slick, your shoes squeek like you're climbing a balloon.
Galactic Hitchhiker is so, so much easier than those Hall of Mirror pitches. Did the second ascent. Story and topo on my web page in the free climbing section so I won't repeat it here.
As long as I'm spraying, I got to do the second ascent of a direct start to Crest Jewel, which is the way to go if you're fast enough to get it all done in a day. Story and topo on my pages as well. Killer, awesome views from north dome.
Love slab climbing.
Peace
karl
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vegastradguy
Dec 8, 2004, 12:36 AM
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nice, ambler!
memorable slabs i've been on include:
Sunflower, 5.9R
Waterstreak, 5.10b (TR)
Grape Nuts, 5.10c (TR)
I've been on a few others that have interesting slab cruxes, but arent really slab routes, Dream of Wild Turkeys has been my favorite so far.
I really want to climb Crest Jewel and Galactic Hitchhiker, though....
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pancaketom
Dec 8, 2004, 12:41 AM
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throw the extra 5 pitches or so onto the front of crest jewel. It ups it to .10d, and makes your feet really hurt before the top.
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krga20
Dec 8, 2004, 12:50 AM
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Fred
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pt
Dec 8, 2004, 1:07 AM
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Here are a couple of easier, but cool slabs;
S. Platte;
Topographical oceans 10b
Bishop-Jaggers 9
Vedauwoo;
Water Streak 10a
Lower Fall Wall 10a
Lumpy;
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 10a
City of Rocks;
Just another Pretty Face 10c
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emilb
Dec 8, 2004, 1:08 AM
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I'm one of those folks who like slab climbing. All time favorite is Bombay Groove at Stone Mountain, NC. At 5.10a its not that hard but it runs along the edge of the Great Arch (a huge dihedral at Stone). Spectacular postion and views.
Other notables.
Captain Crunch (5.11a) at Stone.
Pull the plug (5.11b) at Rumbling Bald.
Still have to try some of those classic Yosemite slabs the next time I get back there.
Emil
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:11 AM
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My favorite slab climb would have to be Climb of the Ancient Mariner, a 3 pitch 10a at Lumpy Ridge. The second pitch is moderate slab heaven.
Biggest goal? In Colorado, that's easy. Childhood's End on Big Rock Candy Mountain in the South Platte. 1400' of slab climbing with pitches ranging from 5.7 to 5.12a. The lower the grade of the pitch, the fewer bolts; the .12a pitch can be aided while there is a 5.7 pitch with no pro at all. A friend had an epic there last summer, climbing all but the last pitch and rapping the entire route in rain/lightning, etc.
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:23 AM
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In reply to: Dream symphony was the most memorable slab I've done.
I was in Squamish for the first time this past summer and Dream Symphony (or maybe it was Dancing in the Light) was the first climb I got on over there. I learned to climb in Eldo, generally love runnout, scary routes, regularly onsight 5.11 trad, and consider myself a pretty good slab climber...
The first pitch had two bolts in 100' as I recall, and I remember being so worked up that when I was three feet from the chains I just jumped for them and grabbed them with both hands - I didn't want to trust my feet for even one more smear. My partner arrived at the belay and said, "sorry, but I won't trade leads on this climb with you." I looked up at the next pitch, looked back at my partner, and said, "well, we're bailing." I couldn't remember the last time I even fell on 5.10a climbing, and this had me nearly in tears! At least Local Boys Do Good had holds! Props to the men who established those routes on the Apron.
Other good slab climbs that come to mind:
Learning to Crawl, Indian Creek
Birds of Fire, RMNP
Warpath, Wigwam Dome, South Platte
Stoner's Highway, Yosemite
Pins and Needles, Zion
Probably my favorite of all time is Auto Da Fe on the Watchtower Face at Arapiles - entirely gear protected slab climbing!
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: Learning to Crawl, Indian Creek
I forgot about that one. I tend to think of it as an arete, but there's no doubt that the crux involves some desperate, insecure smearing. There's even less doubt that it's a fucking amazing climb.
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ambler
Dec 8, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Hey, while we're on the subject of slab climbs -- anybody want to share a TR or their impressions about some of Paul Ross' new "looks like 3rd Flatiron, climbs like Black Canyon" adventures out on the Eastern Reef Slabs? Those things look pretty amazing from the road.
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taraus_de_bull
Dec 8, 2004, 1:33 AM
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speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:36 AM
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In reply to: Hey, while we're on the subject of slab climbs -- anybody want to share a TR or their impressions about some of Paul Ross' new "looks like 3rd Flatiron, climbs like Black Canyon" adventures out on the Eastern Reef Slabs? Those things look pretty amazing from the road.
They do look enticing, huh? My guess is that they are more novelty though - I don't think the rock quality is nearly as good as the flatirons. Somebody posted recently on "Death by Chocolate" I believe on climbingmoab.com with quite a few comments on the climb. I think it would be fun to do one at some point but I couldn't imagine them being destination climbs - but who knows?!
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:38 AM
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In reply to: speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
Yes. There is one, called "The Very Big and the Very Small." It was put up by Johnny Dawes and has only been repeated by one other person - Steve McClure. It's on Slate in the UK, where Dawes has also put up a few 5.13+ slabs as well. Of course, Dawes has also climbed Missing Link (cover of the Arapiles guidebook) with no hands (sick!)
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:43 AM
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In reply to: speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
I've heard Fred Nicole's 5.14d route "Bain de Sang" (I've probably butchered the French; it means "blood bath" in English) referred to as a slab, although I'm not sure it truly is.
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curt
Dec 8, 2004, 3:07 AM
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Here are a few good, hard slab boulder problems, for those who are so inclined......
Yosemite
Twinkle Toes
Blue Suede Shoes
Hueco
Slim Pickins
Dentugrip
Mt. Rubidoux
Pink Bug
In My Time of Dimes
Flabob
Curt
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lazyjammin
Dec 8, 2004, 3:52 AM
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Ill be honest, I suck at slabs, thought they are always memorable. My most memorable one was recently in J-Tree, Bandsaw .10c super runout but awesome. I was amazed I could put my feet on some of these things and then stick all my weight on it.
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pt
Dec 8, 2004, 4:10 AM
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Here's some Arizona classics;
Warpaint 10c
Chiboni 9
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robdotcalm
Dec 8, 2004, 4:43 AM
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Some other slabs from Vedauwoo in addition to those mentioned earlier.
Cold Finger to Easy Overhang Traverse to Upper Fall Wall (5.8)
Gunga Din 5.11a
Spider God 5.11b
Mickey Mantle 5.10c
Space Oddity 5.12a (steep for a slab, but rough rock at Vedauwoo creates a lot of friction)
Outrider 5.10a
Stand and Deliver 5.10a
Bragging about Jesus 5.10a (5.4 chimney start, followed by 10 qd’s + .75 Camalot)
Sketch Palsy 5.10d
Klink 5.10a (10a crack but real crux is the upper runout 5.9 slab)
Many of the climbs on Crystal Freeway have significant slab sections (e.g., Exit Freeway, 11a) and likewise for the northwest side of Valley Massif
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bvb
Dec 8, 2004, 4:48 AM
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In reply to: Mt. Rubidoux Pink Bug In My Time of Dimes Flabob
yeah...basically, anything at suicide, any boulder problem or route that kevin powell or darrel hensel did in so cal, anything on the apron..especially the stuff bruce morris routes. hoppy's favorite and oasis via coonyard are old faves.
and karlbaba...2nd pitch of misty beethoven has 10d 30 feet out...as i recall, there's only 3 bolts ona long pitch. but i haven't done it since '88 or so, so memory may fail me....
LUV slabs.
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numbnut
Dec 8, 2004, 4:53 AM
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I can't believe no one has mentioned Super Slab in Eldorado canyon. So good!!
Also east coast style, whitehorse ledge is a proud moderate slab.
Oh I forgot to mention the most slaborific slabbiest slabs, the east face of the third Flatiron is the slab to end all slabs. :D
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thisflash
Dec 8, 2004, 4:55 AM
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Tuolumne is slab central. There's nothing like old school run out slab climbing to get the nerves going.
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theishofoz
Dec 8, 2004, 5:00 AM
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i have done bolt run (10d), and finger grafitti(11c) at the peanut gallery at donner summit.... they were super fun
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boltdude
Dec 8, 2004, 5:09 AM
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In reply to: Biggest goal? In Colorado, that's easy. Childhood's End on Big Rock Candy Mountain in the South Platte.
And to add to the list of areas with awesome slab routes - Calaveras Dome. Some pure slab, some edgy, some with awesome huge dikes, and a bunch with giant knobs to hang out on and get your head back together for the next stretch...
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numbnut
Dec 8, 2004, 5:27 AM
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Almost forgot EBGB's. :shock:
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addiroids
Dec 8, 2004, 5:30 AM
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I am pretty sure that the most scared I have been slab climbing, is on a route that I don't even remember. I am guessing it is on granite and not in Joshua Tree (which I know is a type of granite).
As far as Tick List goes:
Get my partner better at slab climbing.
Joshua Tree:
The 10c between Double Dip and the black dyke that climbs scoops and stuff was pretty damn scary. The crux is over a scoop with the bolt below the scoop (like 10-15 feet). I did Heart and Sole (first 10a slab onsight) and a dude there sandbagged me into doing the 10c. That thing was way runout for me, but I fortunately managed to get the onsight. Nice, my climbing level progressed 3 number ratings in about 2 hours. I am pretty sure I got a slab 10c onsight before a crack 10c in my climbing career. But that DOES NOT mean that I am the slab ropegun!!!
But come on guys, slab climbing is SOOOO 1968 (kalcario).
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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mesomorf
Dec 8, 2004, 6:15 AM
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Shakey Flakes, Arches Apron, Yosemite.
Days of Future Passed, right hand start and final 2 pitches. Not the new wave bolted route at the end, either. The direct 2-bolt finish. This is on Rockfellow Dome, Cochise Stronghold, Arizona.
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alpnclmbr1
Dec 8, 2004, 6:32 AM
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Josh
welcome to the 84 olympic(sic)
electric blue
glory road (one move wonder 12)
Suicide
10 karat gold
AZ
Warpaint: one of the prettiest lines anywhere
The slab that I want to do the most:
Heart of stone
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climbbaja
Dec 8, 2004, 10:53 AM
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Grade IV steep friction:
La Joya .11b
El Paseo Blanco .11c/d
Baile del Sol .10b R
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iamthewallress
Dec 8, 2004, 12:55 PM
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In reply to: and karlbaba...2nd pitch of misty beethoven has 10d 30 feet out...as i recall, there's only 3 bolts ona long pitch. but i haven't done it since '88 or so, so memory may fail me....
I rapped that route (I think) earlier this year coming off of the Mouth, which was already more slab excitement than I can handle. I found it hard to believe that there was even a rout there.
Shakey Flakes may be missing a bolt.
Pretty much everything on the Arches Terrace slabs, GPA, or the Middle Cathedral NF Apron gives me the willies just looking at it.
I hear Greasy but Groovy is exciting.
My goal for the winter is to climb ANY slab. The 'easy' ones still terrify me.
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 4:03 PM
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In reply to: I can't believe no one has mentioned Super Slab in Eldorado canyon. So good!!
This is one of my favorite routes, although despite the name it didn't come to mind as a slab. Maybe because it seems to involve precision edging rather than smearing. A truly awesome route, with bonus points for being mostly gear-protected. Funny that nothing in Eldo really jumped out at me although there are a lot of great, slightly less than vertical face climbs.
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bandycoot
Dec 8, 2004, 4:06 PM
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La Joya is also on my list. I forgot about that one. I might do that this spring!
Josh
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 8, 2004, 4:45 PM
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Future Shock (.11a) on Whitehorse is wild. It just snakes up this steep diagonal feature, I don't even know what you'd call it, but there are a couple good pictures posted here. I'm waiting for my chance to get on that one.
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shakylegs
Dec 8, 2004, 5:15 PM
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In reply to: Here are a few good, hard slab boulder problems, for those who are so inclined......
I don't know if this was intended to be a pun. If so, most excellent.
Also, due to an indirect suggestion from Ambler, Across the Universe (Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch, NH) was rather nice.
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ambler
Dec 8, 2004, 5:33 PM
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In reply to: Also, due to an indirect suggestion from Ambler, Across the Universe (Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch, NH) was rather nice.
Back towards the Left Coast, there are too many to count. I'll make an odd vote for The Vision in T Meadows. Although the slab crux is short and 10a, it was memorable enough on the sharp end, with only the old FA bolt. And the line as a whole is a classic.
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edge
Dec 8, 2004, 5:44 PM
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In reply to: and karlbaba...2nd pitch of misty beethoven has 10d 30 feet out...as i recall, there's only 3 bolts ona long pitch. but i haven't done it since '88 or so, so memory may fail me.... LUV slabs.
That is how I remember it as well, but I climbed it in '84. Such an awesome piece of stone.
Crest Jewel was awesome.
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shakylegs
Dec 8, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Could "Blister in the Sun" (Red Rocks) be considered slab? Just walking in that canyon, seeing that line, made my mouth water.
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neuroshock
Dec 8, 2004, 6:21 PM
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i don't have a ticklist specifically for slab climbs. to me, slab isn't neccessarily friction smearing, but less than vertical climbing.
memorable/favorite slabs that i've done:
Walk on the Wild Side (5.8) - Joshua Tree
Frictiony Face, Panty Waist (5.8) - Red Rocks
Rubber Tester Slab - Buttermilks
Heavenly Path (V1) - Happy Boulders
Black Magic (V5) - Happy Boulders
The Wax Museum (V3) - Little Rock City
Yosemite Slab (V2) - Jackson Falls
Standard East Face (5.4) - Third Flatiron
memorable parts:
- Walk on the Wild Side...made the mistake of "trying to beat the crowds" in January and climbing it in the early morning shade. it being my first time on a 'fingernails and friction slab' and the rope drag didn't help.
- Frictiony Face, Panty Waist...the crux made me rethink things. BTW, the Swain guide is wrong, take 1 more quickdraw than the guidebook indicates...it's actually 7 bolts + anchors (had to backclean for the anchor).
- Rubber Tester Slab Boulder...ended every day of my trip to the Buttermilks on each line of this boulder. what better way to keep climbing when your tips are raw?
- Heavenly Path...oh so satisfying
- Black Magic...scared out of my wits halfway up. was told it was a V3 when i was getting on it and had expectations set accordingly
- Wax Museum...a smearing slab with the occasional pebble. blank/sketchy top
- Yosemite Slab...mmm, smearing
- Third Flatiron...so much fun! no pro needed, just go go go!
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karlbaba
Dec 10, 2004, 6:47 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: and karlbaba...2nd pitch of misty beethoven has 10d 30 feet out...as i recall, there's only 3 bolts ona long pitch. but i haven't done it since '88 or so, so memory may fail me.... I rapped that route (I think) earlier this year coming off of the Mouth, which was already more slab excitement than I can handle. I found it hard to believe that there was even a rout there. Shakey Flakes may be missing a bolt. Pretty much everything on the Arches Terrace slabs, GPA, or the Middle Cathedral NF Apron gives me the willies just looking at it. I hear Greasy but Groovy is exciting. My goal for the winter is to climb ANY slab. The 'easy' ones still terrify me.
Yeah, the second pitch of Misty is lead out and continuous. Funny thing is that I can remember one key hold which was only about the size of a pencil lead, but on that climb you practically had to mantel it. It was a jug!
Then you get this 10 long pitch with only one or two bolts. Moral of the pitch, don't get off route.
The Seventh pitch of Mirrors is kinda wicked in a way. There's a really stiff 11b section and just when the leadout is getting unacceptable, you get the bolt, which is only half drilled in the rock, and a 1/4 inch thread head to boot. There are no worse looking bolts on the whole apron, then it's far from easy to get to the next bolt. I'm getting too old for this.
The Third pitch of Greasy but Groovy is one of the finest slab pitches in the valley. Really continuous on beautiful gold rock. Problem it, it starts off with a 10a leadout and if you fall, there is lower angle slab below to punish you. After that, it's almost sport climbing.
Did Shakey Flakes to the end once. Thought I was home free when I finished the 5.11 but no.. there is some lead out, dangerous stuff up higher (even though it more moderate, who wants to climb 5.10 where you slide over a roof after a huge slide if you mess up.
MidLife Crisis (the first three pitches anyway) is one of the better quality, less puckery multipitches over on arches apron. The Rambler is quality as well but harder.
For folks with less bladder control, try poker face to work on your thin slab chops. Over on the Apron, Cold Fusion as good pro as well
Table of Contents in Tuloumne is a pretty fine piece of stone.
Those Middle Cathedral slabs (Stoner, Paradise, DNB, Freewheelin, Quicksilver) are amazing, but for some reason, I've taken some serious whipppers on that stuff. It's just steep enough to flip over on.
Green Dragon used to be a favorite.
On the Deep Throat route on the Mouth, one crux is protected by a fixed knifeblade that's only held in the rock by it's bent tip. You can move this pin about an inch or two back and forth with one finger. I clipped it anyway and managed to take a short fall on it. It held!
Peace
Karl
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thomaskeefer
Dec 10, 2004, 7:25 AM
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In reply to: Ill be honest, I suck at slabs, thought they are always memorable. My most memorable one was recently in J-Tree, Bandsaw .10c super runout but awesome. I was amazed I could put my feet on some of these things and then stick all my weight on it.
If you lead bandsaw you are not only good at slab... you are sick!
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lazyjammin
Dec 10, 2004, 7:53 AM
Post #45 of 51
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
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Yeah, thanks but I tr'd it first. And it was rad. and scary. Kind of weak to have done it like that but looking up at that first bolt.... I was sad later that I did it in that style. Now all these posts have made me want to do more slab.
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yanqui
Dec 10, 2004, 6:06 PM
Post #46 of 51
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559
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Where the hell are the Utahds? Don't you guys realize that Little Cottonwood Canyon is the queen mother of trad slabbiness? I found it difficult to limit my self to one classic at each grade. Here goes:
5.9: S-Direct
10a: Kermit's Wad
10b: The Fin Arete
10c: You're On Your Own (Mule Hollow/Big Cottonwood Canyon). This one's not even in the data bank. Get busy Utahds. Seemed a little sandbaggy to me, but a brillant quartzite slab. Tricky, continuous, kind of runout and LONG (a 60 meter pitch). But the bolts are beefy and the rock hard like a diamond.
10d: The Dorsal Fin
11a: The Nerve (Bell's Canyon) Another one that's not in the data base. What's up Utahds? The first pitch is the juice.
11b: State of Confusion
11c: Flashdash. Originally considered 11+, I would agree with the data base that the climbing on this route is no harder than 11c. However, it's one thing to pause a moment on 5.11 friction between moves and another thing all together to stand there futzing about with RPs and microstoppers trying to place gear in a hairline crack. A stout route to onsight placing gear.
11d: Exqueese Me. This route got a lot of criticism, but it's fun and makes for a fairly reasonable 11d onsight if you're good at slabs. Mostly 5.10, the only real 5.11 part consists of a few hard and well-protected boulder moves at the end of the route.
Although i've done some nice 5.12 faces, I really don't think I've ever done a 5.12 slab. That would be, like, TOO much.
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gavinshmavin
Dec 15, 2004, 9:03 PM
Post #47 of 51
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 19
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One of my favorites in the east is the under-appreciated "Down East" on Cannon. 5.10R, and only one pitch of slab, but just stellar.
I took a very memorable 40', upside-down, sliding fall on it. Longest (duration) fall I've ever taken. Felt like it took thirty seconds. My partner, a sport climber, was wide-eyed but still psyched. Re-leading the pitch was exciting!
gavin
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rossy
Aug 31, 2007, 5:13 PM
Post #48 of 51
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Registered: Aug 31, 2007
Posts: 6
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Try looking in Mountainproject.com. then San Rafael Swell SOUTH. Eastern Reef slabs, Utah. Over 90 Slab and some slightly steeper climbs in this area from 5.2 to 5.12 from about 400' to 2000' in height,plus a mile and a quarter traverse. Most as yet have not been repeated.
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rossy
Aug 31, 2007, 5:48 PM
Post #49 of 51
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Registered: Aug 31, 2007
Posts: 6
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[/image]The rock overall is not as good as the Flatirons ,as these climbs are real desert adventures ,and I am sure they will not be popular with those that like their protection every six feet or so,which these days is the case with most climbers. Anyway before you knock them try one ,I don't think you will have a boring day!!The slabs are over six miles long with over 90 climbs to choose from ranging from 5.4 to 5.12 from 400' to 2000' in height. I think to date only the odd route over 5.8 has been repeated. It is also unlikly you will meet up with other people in this superb area, so flexing rock jocks may as well keep their shirts on ... .
(This post was edited by rossy on Sep 1, 2007, 4:37 PM)
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potreroed
Aug 31, 2007, 6:11 PM
Post #50 of 51
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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For BIG slabs (up to 2000 feet) that are fairly well bolted you can't beat El Potrero Chico.
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winglessangel
Aug 31, 2007, 6:22 PM
Post #51 of 51
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459
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yanqui wrote: Although i've done some nice 5.12 faces, I really don't think I've ever done a 5.12 slab. That would be, like, TOO much.
In "Serra do Cipó", north of Minas Gerais there are 3 slab routes next to each other, tobogan, liseba and I think the other one is lisura.
One of the 3 is 5.12a, if I'm not wrong, tobogan is the one. The routes are about 60feet, I remember that we would come running very fast, start climbing (still running) till we had to stop, 1 sec standing and we would start sliding down...
(This post was edited by winglessangel on Aug 31, 2007, 6:23 PM)
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