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mattm
Dec 8, 2004, 12:11 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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I've seen one pitch cracks, off width tours, multi pitch sport etc etc
Lets see some lists from the climbing style thats WAY outa style right now
Also - If you've got any good stories (and the style often creates them) - Do tell!
Here's a start (some I've done others are goals)
Squamish, BC:
Dream Symphony - 11b
Dancing In The Light - 11b/c
Local Boys Do Good - 11a
Magic Carpet Ride - 11c
WA:
On Line - 10b
Dreamer - 9?
Yosemite:
Crest Jewel - 10a
Hall of Mirrors (Sick) 12c
Galactic Hitchhiker 11b?
Dream symphony was the most memorable slab I've done. I can remember getting on the first 10d pitch and being WAY out above the bolt on tiny little crimps. I was working out the crux move WITH MY SHOES SLIDING OFF THE HOLDS. I was looking at a good 50'+ slide and somehow managed to move up while gravity was pulling me down. It was like slipping out of the clutches of a villain in a movie. Jeeezus - what was I doing here? Sadly, when I got to the crux 11b pitch the sun decided to come out (is was early sept) and essentially BAKED me off the rock. My shoes started melting off everything. Worst part? I wrapped and have to go back and do it AGAIN. Sweeet
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rjavery10
Dec 8, 2004, 12:20 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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I can't remember all of the good slabs I've climbed (an ever growing list).
But I did do one at Big Bear, CA this summer that went at 11d. The crazy thing was that my second had to do it at 12a or so because half the holds I used fell off as soon as I moved off of them. Scary stuff.
Heart and Sole (10a) in J Tree is good.
I TR'ed my way half way up New Deal (13d) in J Tree but I think the first half is no more than 12b. Talk about a sick slab!
I loves the slab climbing though. Get me on an overhanging face and its 5.10 for me.
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bandycoot
Dec 8, 2004, 12:24 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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Goals:
Galactic Hitchhiker 11b
Valhalla 11a
Crest Jewel 10a
Memorable Slabs:
EBGBs 10d
Chingadera 11a
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karlbaba
Dec 8, 2004, 12:33 AM
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I've been up the first 7 pitches of Hall of Mirrors a few times (11b to the top of 7)
That thing is so thin, and so low angle but so continuous, that I was making 10d moves 15 feet past my last bolt, then falling, but avoiding a 35 foot fall by grabbing the sling on the bolt on my way past it. The rock is so slick, your shoes squeek like you're climbing a balloon.
Galactic Hitchhiker is so, so much easier than those Hall of Mirror pitches. Did the second ascent. Story and topo on my web page in the free climbing section so I won't repeat it here.
As long as I'm spraying, I got to do the second ascent of a direct start to Crest Jewel, which is the way to go if you're fast enough to get it all done in a day. Story and topo on my pages as well. Killer, awesome views from north dome.
Love slab climbing.
Peace
karl
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vegastradguy
Dec 8, 2004, 12:36 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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nice, ambler!
memorable slabs i've been on include:
Sunflower, 5.9R
Waterstreak, 5.10b (TR)
Grape Nuts, 5.10c (TR)
I've been on a few others that have interesting slab cruxes, but arent really slab routes, Dream of Wild Turkeys has been my favorite so far.
I really want to climb Crest Jewel and Galactic Hitchhiker, though....
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pancaketom
Dec 8, 2004, 12:41 AM
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throw the extra 5 pitches or so onto the front of crest jewel. It ups it to .10d, and makes your feet really hurt before the top.
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krga20
Dec 8, 2004, 12:50 AM
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Fred
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pt
Dec 8, 2004, 1:07 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Here are a couple of easier, but cool slabs;
S. Platte;
Topographical oceans 10b
Bishop-Jaggers 9
Vedauwoo;
Water Streak 10a
Lower Fall Wall 10a
Lumpy;
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 10a
City of Rocks;
Just another Pretty Face 10c
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emilb
Dec 8, 2004, 1:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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I'm one of those folks who like slab climbing. All time favorite is Bombay Groove at Stone Mountain, NC. At 5.10a its not that hard but it runs along the edge of the Great Arch (a huge dihedral at Stone). Spectacular postion and views.
Other notables.
Captain Crunch (5.11a) at Stone.
Pull the plug (5.11b) at Rumbling Bald.
Still have to try some of those classic Yosemite slabs the next time I get back there.
Emil
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:11 AM
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Registered: May 7, 2003
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My favorite slab climb would have to be Climb of the Ancient Mariner, a 3 pitch 10a at Lumpy Ridge. The second pitch is moderate slab heaven.
Biggest goal? In Colorado, that's easy. Childhood's End on Big Rock Candy Mountain in the South Platte. 1400' of slab climbing with pitches ranging from 5.7 to 5.12a. The lower the grade of the pitch, the fewer bolts; the .12a pitch can be aided while there is a 5.7 pitch with no pro at all. A friend had an epic there last summer, climbing all but the last pitch and rapping the entire route in rain/lightning, etc.
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:23 AM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
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In reply to: Dream symphony was the most memorable slab I've done.
I was in Squamish for the first time this past summer and Dream Symphony (or maybe it was Dancing in the Light) was the first climb I got on over there. I learned to climb in Eldo, generally love runnout, scary routes, regularly onsight 5.11 trad, and consider myself a pretty good slab climber...
The first pitch had two bolts in 100' as I recall, and I remember being so worked up that when I was three feet from the chains I just jumped for them and grabbed them with both hands - I didn't want to trust my feet for even one more smear. My partner arrived at the belay and said, "sorry, but I won't trade leads on this climb with you." I looked up at the next pitch, looked back at my partner, and said, "well, we're bailing." I couldn't remember the last time I even fell on 5.10a climbing, and this had me nearly in tears! At least Local Boys Do Good had holds! Props to the men who established those routes on the Apron.
Other good slab climbs that come to mind:
Learning to Crawl, Indian Creek
Birds of Fire, RMNP
Warpath, Wigwam Dome, South Platte
Stoner's Highway, Yosemite
Pins and Needles, Zion
Probably my favorite of all time is Auto Da Fe on the Watchtower Face at Arapiles - entirely gear protected slab climbing!
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: Learning to Crawl, Indian Creek
I forgot about that one. I tend to think of it as an arete, but there's no doubt that the crux involves some desperate, insecure smearing. There's even less doubt that it's a fucking amazing climb.
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ambler
Dec 8, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Hey, while we're on the subject of slab climbs -- anybody want to share a TR or their impressions about some of Paul Ross' new "looks like 3rd Flatiron, climbs like Black Canyon" adventures out on the Eastern Reef Slabs? Those things look pretty amazing from the road.
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taraus_de_bull
Dec 8, 2004, 1:33 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 282
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speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
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In reply to: Hey, while we're on the subject of slab climbs -- anybody want to share a TR or their impressions about some of Paul Ross' new "looks like 3rd Flatiron, climbs like Black Canyon" adventures out on the Eastern Reef Slabs? Those things look pretty amazing from the road.
They do look enticing, huh? My guess is that they are more novelty though - I don't think the rock quality is nearly as good as the flatirons. Somebody posted recently on "Death by Chocolate" I believe on climbingmoab.com with quite a few comments on the climb. I think it would be fun to do one at some point but I couldn't imagine them being destination climbs - but who knows?!
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jsj42
Dec 8, 2004, 1:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
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In reply to: speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
Yes. There is one, called "The Very Big and the Very Small." It was put up by Johnny Dawes and has only been repeated by one other person - Steve McClure. It's on Slate in the UK, where Dawes has also put up a few 5.13+ slabs as well. Of course, Dawes has also climbed Missing Link (cover of the Arapiles guidebook) with no hands (sick!)
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takeme
Dec 8, 2004, 1:43 AM
Post #18 of 51
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Registered: May 7, 2003
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In reply to: speaking of slab, something i always wondered. is their any slab 5.14's? you see all these fella's cranks 14's on way steep stuff, but any slabby techniquely 14s?
I've heard Fred Nicole's 5.14d route "Bain de Sang" (I've probably butchered the French; it means "blood bath" in English) referred to as a slab, although I'm not sure it truly is.
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curt
Dec 8, 2004, 3:07 AM
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Here are a few good, hard slab boulder problems, for those who are so inclined......
Yosemite
Twinkle Toes
Blue Suede Shoes
Hueco
Slim Pickins
Dentugrip
Mt. Rubidoux
Pink Bug
In My Time of Dimes
Flabob
Curt
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lazyjammin
Dec 8, 2004, 3:52 AM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
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Ill be honest, I suck at slabs, thought they are always memorable. My most memorable one was recently in J-Tree, Bandsaw .10c super runout but awesome. I was amazed I could put my feet on some of these things and then stick all my weight on it.
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pt
Dec 8, 2004, 4:10 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Here's some Arizona classics;
Warpaint 10c
Chiboni 9
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robdotcalm
Dec 8, 2004, 4:43 AM
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Some other slabs from Vedauwoo in addition to those mentioned earlier.
Cold Finger to Easy Overhang Traverse to Upper Fall Wall (5.8)
Gunga Din 5.11a
Spider God 5.11b
Mickey Mantle 5.10c
Space Oddity 5.12a (steep for a slab, but rough rock at Vedauwoo creates a lot of friction)
Outrider 5.10a
Stand and Deliver 5.10a
Bragging about Jesus 5.10a (5.4 chimney start, followed by 10 qd’s + .75 Camalot)
Sketch Palsy 5.10d
Klink 5.10a (10a crack but real crux is the upper runout 5.9 slab)
Many of the climbs on Crystal Freeway have significant slab sections (e.g., Exit Freeway, 11a) and likewise for the northwest side of Valley Massif
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bvb
Dec 8, 2004, 4:48 AM
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In reply to: Mt. Rubidoux Pink Bug In My Time of Dimes Flabob
yeah...basically, anything at suicide, any boulder problem or route that kevin powell or darrel hensel did in so cal, anything on the apron..especially the stuff bruce morris routes. hoppy's favorite and oasis via coonyard are old faves.
and karlbaba...2nd pitch of misty beethoven has 10d 30 feet out...as i recall, there's only 3 bolts ona long pitch. but i haven't done it since '88 or so, so memory may fail me....
LUV slabs.
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numbnut
Dec 8, 2004, 4:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2004
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I can't believe no one has mentioned Super Slab in Eldorado canyon. So good!!
Also east coast style, whitehorse ledge is a proud moderate slab.
Oh I forgot to mention the most slaborific slabbiest slabs, the east face of the third Flatiron is the slab to end all slabs. :D
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thisflash
Dec 8, 2004, 4:55 AM
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Tuolumne is slab central. There's nothing like old school run out slab climbing to get the nerves going.
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