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Weak Wrist
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wyliecoyote


Mar 11, 2005, 8:21 PM
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Weak Wrist
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I Had Surgey on my right wrist to remove a Ganglean(sp?) Syst
now i have no power in my right hand. its been over two months and lots of phisical therapy but it is still weak. any ideas on how to train difrently to try and get some grip setength back?
Randy


kman


Mar 11, 2005, 9:44 PM
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If your going to physio then keep going. They are more qualified than the rc.com folk to get you up and going.


naw


Mar 12, 2005, 12:19 AM
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"Insert Masturbation Joke Here"


Partner climbinginchico


Mar 12, 2005, 1:14 AM
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Re: Weak Wrist [In reply to]
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I broke my L wrist in 14 places- it took me about 5 months to where I could use it regularly again, much less climb hard. Take your time, and keep going to the therapist. If you don't think you're progressing fast enough, then bring up your concerns to the therapist. Tell them you can get more aggressive. The gangleon cysts can be vicious though. Take your time.


12volt_man


Mar 12, 2005, 5:46 AM
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In reply to:
If your going to physio then keep going. They are more qualified than the rc.com folk to get you up and going.

Sage advice. Have you asked your PT or brought up climbing during your exams?


wyliecoyote


Mar 13, 2005, 2:45 AM
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the therapist seems like a med school dropout. im a EMT and i know more about the human body than him. the therapy is just griping a pepsi can as hard as i can for ten seconds leting go for ten seconds (repeat fifty times) thats it. ins wont pay for second opinion. he also thinks climbing is for idiots and morons. im hoping some of you guys could give me some pointers.
Randy


Partner climbinginchico


Mar 15, 2005, 7:43 PM
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In reply to:
the therapist seems like a med school dropout. im a EMT and i know more about the human body than him. the therapy is just griping a pepsi can as hard as i can for ten seconds leting go for ten seconds (repeat fifty times) thats it. ins wont pay for second opinion. he also thinks climbing is for idiots and morons. im hoping some of you guys could give me some pointers.
Randy

My pointer: Get a different therapist who knows what the hell he is talking about.


eieio


Mar 15, 2005, 7:54 PM
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I tore a ligament in my wrist and couldn't climb for a while. I wnet out and bought a Gyro and it helped me out alot!!


delaware


Mar 15, 2005, 9:04 PM
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I am also just getting back to climbing after a wrist injury.

My PT involved strengthening lateral movements, and all the negative muscles too. Because my therapist knew I climbed, he made some simple modifications on my exercises to keep me happy.

Some of my exercises included...
--handbike(started with grips in palms, later in the fingers to keep my grip and sanity)
--those therapy bands(arm straight out, stretch band perp. to arm, strengthening sideways motion)
--silly putty grips(this is something I have continued, it seems to help and I can sit and do it while watching a movie)
--finger curls(take a dumbell in your finger tips, unroll your fingers as far as you can go using the thumb just to keep it from falling off. I feel this one helped quite a bit, i used 25lbs, and did 3 sets of 10, 3x/week)

Now I am to the point where I am climbing again, starting with jughauls and doing just enough where my wrist feels slightly off when I am done. I feel like I am back to about 90% and the last 10% will take longer I am sure.

climb on.

--delaware


bensnyder


Mar 15, 2005, 9:06 PM
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I had my ganglion drained, and my wrist was feeling stronger than ever a week after the procedure. Must've been because there was no lump pushing my wrist's tendons out of the way. Since you had surgery, they probably cut something out of the tendon (correct me if I'm wrong - this is just an educated guess), thus leaving it weakened. Your forearm muscles shouldn't be the problem here, seeing as they shouldn'tve been weakened by the procedure. Im guessing that physical therapy wouldn't do too much here unless it was prolonged over months and months (tendons take something like 5-7 times as long as muscle to grow). That said, this is just an educated guess, so don't take anything i say too seriously. Good luck.


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