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tomma
Aug 15, 2005, 1:46 PM
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I know this is not quite relevant here but could'n post it in the news (only administrators can post there).
So, Tomas Mrazek has done 8c OS, and although we heard news like this not long ago, everyone will probably agree that this should count as the first real 8c OS.
Any comments?
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vegastradguy
Aug 15, 2005, 2:11 PM
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In reply to: everyone will probably agree that this should count as the first real 8c OS.
well, i suppose you could make that argument, although saying something like 'everyone is a bit presumptuous, don't you think? i mean, there could be guys out there like me, who dont really give a shit whether Yuji belayed someone up the route he claimed an onsight on and thus negated his onsight...
at the end of the day, the only person any onsight should matter to is the person who actually did the climbing. if it matters to anyone else, then those people should spend more time climbing and less time worrying about what other people are doing.
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overlord
Aug 15, 2005, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: Tomas Mrazek from Czech Republic has done his first 8c onsight, Patra Negra in Rodellar. The double world champion equals the world onsight record with the questioned 8c onsight of Yuji Hirayama. Pata Negra is a 40 meter long endurance game in the big cave and just to make things clear, - I am for the first time ... in Rodellar and in this sector. Tomas is #2 in the world ranking.
heres the news from 8a nu.
hirayama did belay someone on the route, but he claims that he didnt watch him climb. i dont know if that voids the onsight because the definition 8one of them) states that you cant have any beta of on the climb, including watchin someone climb it, but i havent heard anything about belaying. though it IS a poor belaying practice IMHO.
kudos to mrazek.
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glyrocks
Aug 15, 2005, 4:59 PM
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In reply to: there could be guys out there like me, who dont really give a shit
I'll second that.
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hasbeen
Aug 15, 2005, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: Quote: there could be guys out there like me, who dont really give a shit I'll second that.
why waste time posting here, then? in fact, why read a thread with this title at all? or do you guys feel the absolute need to read and post in every thread on this site? i'm sure there are a lot of threads in community that would value your input.
i sort of want your job(s), since it would give me flexibility to not only research topics i enjoy but spend time researching topics i "don't give a shit" about. then again, it must be a really boring job(s), given you want to do the latter. or are you guys in a prison where the only site available to you is rc.com?
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overlord
Aug 15, 2005, 6:58 PM
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just noticed it... wtf is this doing in the technique and training forum??
it belongs in sport climbing :P
yes, im a bit stoned and cranky
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fluxus
Aug 15, 2005, 8:26 PM
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How can we agreee that this is the first real 8C OS when we have no information about the ascent or the route? Information about Yuji's ascent has gotten out and that's why there are differing opinions about that ascent.
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vegastradguy
Aug 16, 2005, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: why waste time posting here, then? in fact, why read a thread with this title at all? or do you guys feel the absolute need to read and post in every thread on this site? i'm sure there are a lot of threads in community that would value your input. i sort of want your job(s), since it would give me flexibility to not only research topics i enjoy but spend time researching topics i "don't give a s---" about. then again, it must be a really boring job(s), given you want to do the latter. or are you guys in a prison where the only site available to you is rc.com?
well, its not really a waste of time- stupid statements like that make me feel obligated to post my opinion on the matter- because it pisses me off. what i dont give a shit about is the pissy little catfights that pop up over definitions of terms like onsight and flash.
besides, i got a trophy or two for that post, which increases my karma points and allows me to drop poo bombs on stupid posts more often, and this is something i enjoy.
:twisted:
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t-dog
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Aug 16, 2005, 4:45 AM
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In reply to: How can we agreee that this is the first real 8C OS when we have no information about the ascent or the route?
You obviously haven't looked far for information, have you?
From Overlord's post:
In reply to: Pata Negra is a 40 meter long endurance game in the big cave and just to make things clear, - I am for the first time ... in Rodellar and in this sector - Mrazek
As far as I'm concerned, there's no arguing that this was a true onsight.
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tomma
Aug 16, 2005, 8:36 AM
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I used phrases 'the first real' and 'everyone' on purpose, to stir up the discussion.
I know, there are no definitive answers here.
I'm also aware that it this topic is not quite appropriate here.
But we can make it so:
what does it take to do an OS near your RP limit?
According to 8a.nu, Mrazek has done one 9a before,
and a couple of 8c+'s. The rule of thumb says, you should be able to RP 2 grades above your OS. But Mrazek does competitions, i.e. he must train specifically for OSs.
So, is he capable of doing 9b, or is his OS level exceptionally high? Or maybe both.
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overlord
Aug 16, 2005, 12:03 PM
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In reply to: I used phrases 'the first real' and 'everyone' on purpose, to stir up the discussion. I know, there are no definitive answers here. I'm also aware that it this topic is not quite appropriate here. But we can make it so: what does it take to do an OS near your RP limit? According to 8a.nu, Mrazek has done one 9a before, and a couple of 8c+'s. The rule of thumb says, you should be able to RP 2 grades above your OS. But Mrazek does competitions, i.e. he must train specifically for OSs. So, is he capable of doing 9b, or is his OS level exceptionally high? Or maybe both.
actually he has at least two 9as that im aware of. one is martin krpan in mija peč that is listed on 8a.nu and hte other is underground in arco, wich isnt listed for some reason. he also has at least one 8c+ that aslo isnt listed on 8a.nu, "za staro kolo in majhnega psa" in mija peč.
anyway, heres some more news on the ascent http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanky.php?key=3682
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moonshine505
Aug 17, 2005, 4:36 PM
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underground is concensous 8c+, not 9a
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