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korntera
Feb 1, 2006, 11:55 PM
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My friend (Sava6e) and I are working on getting a climbing team together at the University of Oregon. We have the rock wall co-ordinator as our coach, he climbs 5.13 and does it all when it comes to climbing. He is an excellent coach and I really want to thank him for helping us. However I was wondering if anybody else had some input as to what we should be doing. I just like to get second opinions.
We currently do two different technique/strength things per day, such as 3 second hands. We can't move our hand to the next hold until we have held on for 3 seconds. We also do Quick feet, in which we have to tap the hold that we want with our foot, then put our foot back on the origanal hold and then back to the one we want before we can move on. We always downclimb the routes and then at the end of practice we traverse for 10-20(working up to it) minutes solid. We arn't allowed to get off the wall for those 20 minutes and are not allowed to rest on arrets or corners, only on flat parts of the wall using holds.
How does the workout setup sound to everybody? Although we are offcially a "bouldering" team most of us do sport/Trad and TR but you can't do much competing in those areas where we live.
Thanks for suggestions and thanks to our coach for so far setting us up on what seems to be a decent workout.
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herbaltee
Feb 2, 2006, 12:36 AM
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Yay for the UO Climbing team. Now this is no help to you, but its always nice to see someone from home. If I wasn't in England I would be at all the practices. When I get back, I'll hopefully join up.
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korntera
Feb 2, 2006, 1:21 AM
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You climb at the UO or go there? Do I or my climbing partner know you?
I am Travis and he is sean, he is probably more memorable, He is 6'3" and shaved head, kinda loud.
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rock_junkie
Feb 2, 2006, 1:27 AM
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The Oregon State Mountain Club challenges you! We are hosting our annual climbing comp, the format is half bouldering and half lead. Its on February 25. 30 bucks to enter and loads of prizes.
Ryan
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herbaltee
Feb 2, 2006, 2:34 AM
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I don't think we know each other personally, but probably through other people. Like I'm friends with Andrew Leary and a few others that are URock supervisors.
I'm currently on a year abroad in the UK. Been climbing a lot indoors over here and I'm just waiting to get out to the Peak District and Yorkshire. I'll be back come Fall of 2006 and if the team is still going I'll be down to give it a shot.
If you look in the facebook full name is Rithy Khut. And maybe one day I'll get off my ass and go to Smith with you two when you offer again.
Cheers
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climbsomething
Feb 2, 2006, 2:38 AM
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In reply to: We currently do two different technique/strength things per day, such as 3 second hands. We can't move our hand to the next hold until we have held on for 3 seconds. We also do Quick feet, in which we have to tap the hold that we want with our foot, then put our foot back on the origanal hold and then back to the one we want before we can move on. |
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climbin_moo
Feb 2, 2006, 4:22 AM
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How does one join the team?
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korntera
Feb 2, 2006, 6:18 AM
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We have practice on M/W night from 7-9 Come look for the loud people. and Friday from 3-5 at the rock wall. Just show up and ask anybody there, you will be able to find us.
As for herbal tree, yeah I know andrew, he got the boulder team started and then left for australia and sean finished up the job. I have seen you on facebook. I was the one that created the UO rock climbing group on facebook. The other guy that is on the officers list is the guy that started is running the team right now.
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korntera
Feb 2, 2006, 6:20 AM
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Rock junkie, we would love to come out. We are a really small team right now, we had like 8 people but then when andrew left practiced stopped then winter break came and then we didn't have practice till this monday so we only have like 3-5 people but we should have 10(weak I know) by that time. I will PM you to get more info about it.
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tobym
Feb 2, 2006, 7:50 AM
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In reply to: Sounds more like training for slow, indecisive climbing.
never placed your own gear? :roll:
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korntera
Feb 2, 2006, 7:13 PM
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:lol: Nice. Only two of the people on the team climb trad but there are people that say they will be comming after this term that climb trad. The excercise works on two things when you do that. #1 Strength, when you hold on longer duh, it takes more muscle. We are climbing for endurance and working on fast muscle recovery. #2 It helps you decide what move is the most effcient. Instead of running up the wall as fast as you can, you stay on the hold for 3 seconds looking for your next hold so that your climbing is as effcient as possible and that when I do the same exact V1 as you (yeah weak, im not much of a boulderer, I usually sport climb) then I will use less energy than you.
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climbsomething
Feb 2, 2006, 7:32 PM
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I've placed gear a couple of times. Never considered that dicking around in the gym would make me better at it! Chee, maybe I should try that.
You say you're weak, and by the sounds of this "training regiment" you might stay that way. If you want to train endurance, try climbing several routes just below your limit with no rest, not shopping your feet around and leaving your hands on holds a while (which doesn't sound the same as locking off). If you want to train yourself to find better feet quickly, try this well-known exercise: whatever foot you instinctively put your toe on, leave it there, even if you see a better one. Eventually you'll learn to spot the best foot immediately. Don't re-invent the wheel by confusing wasting time and energy with getting stronger, or redefining "slow" as "efficient."
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climbsomething
Feb 2, 2006, 7:46 PM
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:shock:
That don't look like no beaver...
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bobruef
Feb 2, 2006, 7:56 PM
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you're right, it most certainly was not a beaver. :lol:
It was one of the foul creatures that inhabit Eugene, OR
The far Superior beaver's natural habitat is centered around Corvallis.
http://www.cheddarheads.co.uk/nfl/usa03/us03013b.jpg
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elvislegs
Feb 2, 2006, 8:08 PM
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i ususally like to run some sprints, some up-and-backs, down-and-backs, around-and-backs, and a few through-and-back ladders before i even get on the wall.
then i do my chalk work out. i go to a bad hold and force myself to chalk up, dipping three times per hand, while staying on that hold. if i fall off, i have to do it twice the next time. oh yeah, i usually wear a pack (filled with phone books of course) while doing these, because you never know...
then 3 sets of 20 reps each hand of a little game i like to call "clip and unclip".
and of course i round it all out with some reverse dynos. just go to a good jug, cut your feet , let go with the jug hand and cling on to a crimp about waist level. try reverse dynoing your best route.
that should get you started.
cheers.
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sidepull
Feb 2, 2006, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: We currently do two different technique/strength things per day, such as 3 second hands. We can't move our hand to the next hold until we have held on for 3 seconds. We also do Quick feet, in which we have to tap the hold that we want with our foot, then put our foot back on the origanal hold and then back to the one we want before we can move on. Sounds more like training for slow, indecisive climbing.
Seeing as how the point of this thread was to get advice on your workout I think that climbsomething makes an important point. Your workout seems to emphasize slow, methodical movement. This would be good if you were doing routes but since you are mainly competing in bouldering competitions I think you should trend toward exercises that build up explosive power.
That said, any workout should be geared toward your weaknesses. So if footwork and locking off are problem areas for you, then good workout. If these areas aren't problematic, you'd see more improvement by doing other exercises. In other words, it's tough for anyone to judge another's workout without a better understanding of that person's strengths and weaknesses and their goals. In this case we have neither, so any advice is equally wrong and equally right.
Good luck.
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jt512
Feb 2, 2006, 8:56 PM
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In reply to: So if footwork and locking off are problem areas for you, then good workout. If these areas aren't problematic, you'd see more improvement by doing other exercises.
No matter what his weaknesses are, he'd see more improvement by doing other exercises. The exercises he mentions are some of the strangest training ideas I've ever heard. The foot-tapping exercise seems especially bizarre.
Jay
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piton
Feb 2, 2006, 10:01 PM
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In reply to: I've placed gear a couple of times. Never considered that dicking around in the gym would make me better at it! Chee, maybe I should try that. You say you're weak, and by the sounds of this "training regiment" you might stay that way. If you want to train endurance, try climbing several routes just below your limit with no rest, not shopping your feet around and leaving your hands on holds a while (which doesn't sound the same as locking off). If you want to train yourself to find better feet quickly, try this well-known exercise: whatever foot you instinctively put your toe on, leave it there, even if you see a better one. Eventually you'll learn to spot the best foot immediately. Don't re-invent the wheel by confusing wasting time and energy with getting stronger, or redefining "slow" as "efficient."
that's a noobs advice for gym climbing 101. anyway erckal called he wants his glasses back
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climbsomething
Feb 2, 2006, 10:05 PM
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Well, if I know nothing else, it's how to be a top-notch gym n00b.
Did I do thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat?
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jt512
Feb 2, 2006, 11:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I've placed gear a couple of times. Never considered that dicking around in the gym would make me better at it! Chee, maybe I should try that. You say you're weak, and by the sounds of this "training regiment" you might stay that way. If you want to train endurance, try climbing several routes just below your limit with no rest, not shopping your feet around and leaving your hands on holds a while (which doesn't sound the same as locking off). If you want to train yourself to find better feet quickly, try this well-known exercise: whatever foot you instinctively put your toe on, leave it there, even if you see a better one. Eventually you'll learn to spot the best foot immediately. Don't re-invent the wheel by confusing wasting time and energy with getting stronger, or redefining "slow" as "efficient." that's a noobs advice for gym climbing 101.
And the OP is a V1 gym climber; so what, if anything, is your point?
Jay
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mistajman
Feb 3, 2006, 12:13 AM
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Climbing Team? Who do you guys compete against? I didn't know gym climbing was a team sport.
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mistajman
Feb 3, 2006, 12:19 AM
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Climbing Team? Who do you guys compete against? I didn't know gym climbing was a team sport.
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curtis_g
Feb 3, 2006, 12:37 AM
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In reply to: Climbing Team? Who do you guys compete against? I didn't know gym climbing was a team sport.
I would expect it to work the same way as a golf team...or a tennis team, or a bowling team, or a racing team, or a swimming team, or any other team where the combined personal scores and individual performances of the team members contribute to an overall team scorecard.
or maybe they just train/climb together and drive to comps together.
quit trashin' and show some love you hater.
- Curtis
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korntera
Feb 3, 2006, 7:02 AM
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Maybe somehow I came off as a n00b. I climb trad, I have been to yosemite, I do multipitch and sport. But bouldering is the only thing we can compete in. Sadly there arn't many outdoor climbing comps so therefor we have to gym climb.
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