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edmontonalta
Aug 16, 2007, 6:23 AM
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I might need something like this for climbing down waterfall. The rock appears to be sedamentary. lots of cracks. its a hard rock though. like shale.
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flint
Aug 16, 2007, 6:34 AM
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I knew who this was when I read the title. I don't even know why I opened it.
Anyway, Shale is not a hard rock. Pitons and more importantly, the hammer to put them in are heavy. Way heavier than that 50m you were bitching about in your last troll. Also, this form of protection is not widely used due to the damage it does to the rock. And don't feed me some bullshit about how no one else will go there so the rock doesn't matter. That rock took longer than even an accountant could imagine to form, and why would you beat metal into something that is smarter than yourself.
All of these activities take experience and you need to find someone to teach you.
I also told you to use nuts in you very first troll, and you ignored/disregarded my advice, along with everyone elses. I also believe that I told you to rap from the top...... use tree anchors....... don't drill....... use passive gear........ get personal instruction...... all of which you continue to ignore.
Please just STFU and quit while you are ahead on the troll.
(This post was edited by flint on Aug 16, 2007, 6:41 AM)
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edmontonalta
Aug 16, 2007, 6:42 AM
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flint wrote: I knew who this was when I read the title. I don't even know why I opened it. Anyway, Shale is not a hard rock. Pitons and more importantly, the hammer to put them in are heavy. Way heavier than that 50m you were bitching about in your last troll. Also, this form of protection is not widely used due to the damage it does to the rock. And don't feed me some bullshit about how no one else will go there so the rock doesn't matter. That rock took longer than even an accountant could imagine to form, and why would you beat metal into something that is smart than yourself. All of these activities take experience and you need to find someone to teach you. I also told you to use nuts in you very first troll, and you ignored/disregarded my advice, along with everyone elses. I also believe that I told you to rap from the top...... use tree anchors....... don't drill....... use passive gear........ get personal instruction...... all of which you continue to ignore. Please just STFU and quit while you are ahead on the troll.
The rock isnt like limestone. It is pretty hard. Once I get in the waterfall. I will want to explore it so Id like some protection. If pitons are as heavy as you say I wont use them . I just hought it would be safer to use both pitons and nuts since they are new to me.
I just want to get this over with so I can bloody sleep.
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flint
Aug 16, 2007, 6:47 AM
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Pay someone. You can sleep, they have beer money. Wait, thats right, either there is Cooper's gold down there or the first bag you dropped was filled with enough cocaine to keep norther Washington high for the next 6 months.
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domu888
Aug 16, 2007, 6:51 AM
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edmontonalta wrote: flint wrote: I knew who this was when I read the title. I don't even know why I opened it. Anyway, Shale is not a hard rock. Pitons and more importantly, the hammer to put them in are heavy. Way heavier than that 50m you were bitching about in your last troll. Also, this form of protection is not widely used due to the damage it does to the rock. And don't feed me some bullshit about how no one else will go there so the rock doesn't matter. That rock took longer than even an accountant could imagine to form, and why would you beat metal into something that is smart than yourself. All of these activities take experience and you need to find someone to teach you. I also told you to use nuts in you very first troll, and you ignored/disregarded my advice, along with everyone elses. I also believe that I told you to rap from the top...... use tree anchors....... don't drill....... use passive gear........ get personal instruction...... all of which you continue to ignore. Please just STFU and quit while you are ahead on the troll. The rock isnt like limestone. It is pretty hard. Once I get in the waterfall. I will want to explore it so Id like some protection. If pitons are as heavy as you say I wont use them . I just hought it would be safer to use both pitons and nuts since they are new to me. I just want to get this over with so I can bloody sleep.
My suggestion would be to buy everything in the largest climbing store you can find, take everything, plus a professional guide and a camera crew. Play around on the waterfall and videotape it, so we can all laugh at you as you're ticketed by some park ranger as you crawl out of the river having fallen into it.  Don't forget to post the video here.
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thomasribiere
Aug 16, 2007, 11:25 AM
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edmontonalta wrote: I might need something like this for climbing down waterfall. The rock appears to be sedamentary. lots of cracks. its a hard rock though. like shale.
Interesting geological feature... Pictures maybe?
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nurocks
Aug 16, 2007, 12:30 PM
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Interesting indeed. I don't think I've ever seen a 20' Vertical waterfall in a non-meta-shale; or seen a shale with contant water flow that wasn't slaking to shit. Interesting indeed.
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billcoe_
Aug 16, 2007, 2:46 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: Are there any tutorials on placing pitons and nuts? I might need something like this for climbing down waterfall. The rock appears to be sedamentary. lots of cracks. its a hard rock though. like shale.
yes
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coastal_climber
Aug 16, 2007, 2:56 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: I might need something like this for climbing down waterfall. The rock appears to be sedamentary. lots of cracks. its a hard rock though. like shale.
Why do you want to climb down a waterfall? Did you lose something? Maybe your balls? Listen to what others are telling you, they know more than you ever will.
>Cam
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summerprophet
Aug 16, 2007, 3:18 PM
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edmontonalta,
This is a personal message to you.
From the nature of your postings on rockclimbing.com, it appears that you have little knowledge or actual desire to participate in any rockclimbing activities. You do seem do seek knowledge regarding protection and anchoring yourself while accending this waterfall.
While I am unsure why you have such a desire to make it up this waterfall, I am sure you have your reasons, and it is not my place to judge you on that desire. Firstly, kudos to you for wanting to remain safe and protect yourself in such an area, but be aware, that as rockclimbers, permanent anchors such as bolts (and occasionally pitons) have little evidence of their security in the rock. As such, the community has very strong feelings as to the skill level and knowledge of the person setting permanent anchors.
An improperly set bolt might hold, and it might not, and the visible signs as to whether it is good or not are incredible slight, often non-existent.
Your 12V drill is not suitable to drill bolts, the concrete bolts you purchased are not suitable for rock climbing anchors, and the books you keep refering to as too expensive are far cheaper than buying proper bolts, hammers or equipment.
So I am calling you out. I am moving to the outskirts of Seattle (where these supposed waterfalls are located) next week, if you are serious about exporing this area, I can demonstrate to you the proper methods of anchoring yourself, rappelling, and general ropework, sufficient to get up and get down these waterfalls safely, without risking your life, or risking the lives of any climbers who choose to follow behind you and have the ill luck of clipping into your timebomb anchors.
If you are serious about this, then contact me, otherwise I will assume you are just trying to attract attention to yourself by continuing to make these ridiculous posts.
(This post was edited by summerprophet on Aug 16, 2007, 3:19 PM)
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coastal_climber
Aug 16, 2007, 3:21 PM
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summerprophet wrote: edmontonalta, This is a personal message to you. From the nature of your postings on rockclimbing.com, it appears that you have little knowledge or actual desire to participate in any rockclimbing activities. You do seem do seek knowledge regarding protection and anchoring yourself while accending this waterfall. While I am unsure why you have such a desire to make it up this waterfall, I am sure you have your reasons, and it is not my place to judge you on that desire. Firstly, kudos to you for wanting to remain safe and protect yourself in such an area, but be aware, that as rockclimbers, permanent anchors such as bolts (and occasionally pitons) have little evidence of their security in the rock. As such, the community has very strong feelings as to the skill level and knowledge of the person setting permanent anchors. An improperly set bolt might hold, and it might not, and the visible signs as to whether it is good or not are incredible slight, often non-existent. Your 12V drill is not suitable to drill bolts, the concrete bolts you purchased are not suitable for rock climbing anchors, and the books you keep refering to as too expensive are far cheaper than buying proper bolts, hammers or equipment. So I am calling you out. I am moving to the outskirts of Seattle (where these supposed waterfalls are located) next week, if you are serious about exporing this area, I can demonstrate to you the proper methods of anchoring yourself, rappelling, and general ropework, sufficient to get up and get down these waterfalls safely, without risking your life, or risking the lives of any climbers who choose to follow behind you and have the ill luck of clipping into your timebomb anchors. If you are serious about this, then contact me, otherwise I will assume you are just trying to attract attention to yourself by continuing to make these ridiculous posts.
Good on you mate!
>Cam
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LostinMaine
Aug 16, 2007, 8:30 PM
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summerprophet wrote: all that stuff the the OP
Edmon, you'd be a fool not to take someone up on this kind of offer. If for no other reason than the retrieve the waterlogged bag that's down there, get some sleep, and relieve your OCD impulses.
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Aug 16, 2007, 8:31 PM)
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edmontonalta
Aug 16, 2007, 9:14 PM
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summerprophet wrote: edmontonalta, This is a personal message to you. From the nature of your postings on rockclimbing.com, it appears that you have little knowledge or actual desire to participate in any rockclimbing activities. You do seem do seek knowledge regarding protection and anchoring yourself while accending this waterfall. While I am unsure why you have such a desire to make it up this waterfall, I am sure you have your reasons, and it is not my place to judge you on that desire. Firstly, kudos to you for wanting to remain safe and protect yourself in such an area, but be aware, that as rockclimbers, permanent anchors such as bolts (and occasionally pitons) have little evidence of their security in the rock. As such, the community has very strong feelings as to the skill level and knowledge of the person setting permanent anchors. An improperly set bolt might hold, and it might not, and the visible signs as to whether it is good or not are incredible slight, often non-existent. Your 12V drill is not suitable to drill bolts, the concrete bolts you purchased are not suitable for rock climbing anchors, and the books you keep refering to as too expensive are far cheaper than buying proper bolts, hammers or equipment. So I am calling you out. I am moving to the outskirts of Seattle (where these supposed waterfalls are located) next week, if you are serious about exporing this area, I can demonstrate to you the proper methods of anchoring yourself, rappelling, and general ropework, sufficient to get up and get down these waterfalls safely, without risking your life, or risking the lives of any climbers who choose to follow behind you and have the ill luck of clipping into your timebomb anchors. If you are serious about this, then contact me, otherwise I will assume you are just trying to attract attention to yourself by continuing to make these ridiculous posts.
Thanks for the offer. I lost all my climbing equipment so Im going to try to make a rope ladder with cheap rope to get down one complicated cliff. The falls are not straight cliffs and they have ledges so the repell will be quite easy. At this point, I would take your offer if you came to the falls with me which will take at least 7 hrs.
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summerprophet
Aug 16, 2007, 9:19 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: At this point, I would take your offer if you came to the falls with me which will take at least 7 hrs.
It is not neccesary to go to the site with you to demonstrate rope technique, and teach you how to utilize proper protection. We could meet somewhere nearby your falls and avoid the 7 hour hike in.
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el_layclimber
Aug 16, 2007, 9:59 PM
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Any suspicion that this guy is totally full of shit is confirmed by reading his other posts. The only thing I am not sure of is if he is doing this because he is bored, psychotic or both.
Since this community seems to need a punching bag, I move that we replace the sport of Majid bashing with Endmontonalta bashing, as he deserves it more.
I had sworn off saying anything sarcastic or mean, but this guy seems to enjoy it. I bet he pays fat hookers to step on his necktie and tell him he is bad at mopping.
Ed: I recommend a neck belay. Pound in a couple of pitons, and clip your rope to it using carabiners. Then tie the other end around your neck and jump off. Don't worry about how long the rope is, or how thick, or what knots you use. Those "not for climbing" carabiners are okay to use as well.
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edmontonalta
Aug 16, 2007, 10:09 PM
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summerprophet wrote: edmontonalta wrote: At this point, I would take your offer if you came to the falls with me which will take at least 7 hrs. It is not neccesary to go to the site with you to demonstrate rope technique, and teach you how to utilize proper protection. We could meet somewhere nearby your falls and avoid the 7 hour hike in.
I have lost all my climbing gear so will have to use marine rope without harness etc.. I dont have a photographic memory. Takes me weeks to learn a new knot or technique.
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the_climber
Aug 16, 2007, 10:10 PM
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Sure, Grab some pins.. hell scrab metal with a hole drilled in it will do. Make sure you get a light hammer, you don't want to over drive those pins now... home depo or Canadian Tire'll cover the rope and biners....
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Don't take that seriously
Take this seriously--------> If you are half the tool you seem to be, get some fucking instruction. Climbing will KILL you if you're stupid, dumb, or ignorant (pick one) Hell it kills pros every year.
So, in closing STFU nOOB!
And get some proper instruction. There are more than a couple ACMG guides based out of Edmonton... It's not hard to find them... Try Rescue Dynamics.
And don't get dead you Tool!
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the_climber
Aug 16, 2007, 10:14 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: summerprophet wrote: edmontonalta wrote: At this point, I would take your offer if you came to the falls with me which will take at least 7 hrs. It is not neccesary to go to the site with you to demonstrate rope technique, and teach you how to utilize proper protection. We could meet somewhere nearby your falls and avoid the 7 hour hike in. I have lost all my climbing gear so will have to use marine rope without harness etc.. I dont have a photographic memory. Takes me weeks to learn a new knot or technique.
There is a BIG BOLD Reason that we use ropes designated as "Climbing Ropes".
Marine ropes Pffft, those are nowhere, I mean NOWHERE, near as strong. Trust me I've broken enough ropes gettting stuck 4x4's out of areas to know that.
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majid_sabet
Aug 16, 2007, 10:29 PM
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This is funny and this guy is kind of players. Next he will come and asks
" How do I aid a fix rope next to a waterfall"
Then all aid master will come to rescue him and then plays with them for another 4 pages and moves back to
" How to untie prusik while been loaded".
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the_climber
Aug 16, 2007, 10:31 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: This is funny and this guy is kind of players. Next he will come and asks " How do I aid a fix rope next to a waterfall" Then all aid master will come to rescue him and then plays with them for another 4 pages and moves back to " How to untie prusik while been loaded".
Yes, we seem to be feeding the troll don't we.
DON'T FEED THE TROLL
Damn I wish we had the old :troll: smiley back
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summerprophet
Aug 16, 2007, 10:37 PM
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edmontalalta,
If you have lost all of your climbing gear, why do you want to place pitons/nut/bolts? What do you intend to clip to them? How do you intend to climb past them.
If you are unable to identify and tie knots without weeks of practice, then how do you intend to learn the subleties of nutcraft and bolt placement.
These are relativley staightforward tasks, but done incorrectly can KILL YOU !!!
Marine ropes are quite strong, and in theory will work fine for rappelling, however they are not rated for live (meaning a persons life depends on the rope) loads and could quite possibly have a faulty joined core. These ropes are not meant for rappelling, should not be used for rappelling and foremost should NEVER EVER be used for climbing.
That being said, it appears that you have gleaned just enough information from this website to injure or kill yourself.
Please don't. And if you do, please notify your loved ones that you are NOT rockclimbing. Don't let your death fuck up the statistics for the rest of us.
That being said, I really don't believe you are for real, you continually pose questions implying that you are going to place yourself in a dangerous situation, and prey on the good heart climbers amongst us, You imply that you wish to return to an area that is a 7 hour hike from seattle (really 7 hours in one of the most incredibly populated areas of the pacific northwest?) and offer little response or reply to the advice you get.
That being said, I have been wrong before, and would sooner teach you the proper methods rather than read about you in the paper.
My offer is for free instruction only. If you want a guide to accompany you, provide equipment and build permanent anchors, my day rate is $140 plus expenses (incredibly cheap), and I can offer references if you require.
NOTE: permanent anchors dependant upon ownership and status of the land.
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edmontonalta
Aug 16, 2007, 11:15 PM
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I think you guys have to examine your motives why you want to make me out to be some bigger than life moron.
I only need to get down a 20 ft cliff and then repell down a gentle waterfalls which are around 30ft each with nice steps between the waterfalls. I would like nuts/pitons for anchors in the waterfall. Hopefully, my climbing rope is only down one waterfall.
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silascl
Aug 16, 2007, 11:22 PM
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I think you need to examine your head.
The contents appear to have gone missing.
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