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poomasta
Feb 17, 2009, 4:50 PM
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If you're bouldering to build muscle, which approach would make more sense (assume problems are of a similar style & difficulty):
1) do 15 different boulder problems
2) repeat 5 boulder problems 3 times each
I've been doing approach #1 for a couple weeks, but am curious if #2 would have some theoretical advantage based on more fully exhausting muscles through repetitive movements. The problems are all 1-2 grades below my max v-grade, and I'm taking adequate rest (2-5 minutes) between each attempt. I usually (90% of the time) complete a problem first go, but if not, i'll rest and give it another go before moving onto the next one.
any thoughts / advice appreciated...
thanks,
mike
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johnwesely
Feb 17, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #2 of 8
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How about you lift some weights if that is what you want?
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poomasta
Feb 17, 2009, 6:07 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Fair enough...I should have specified building climbing specific muscle (predominately forearms). I do a regular gym workout a couple times a week as well for general conditioning.
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johnwesely
Feb 17, 2009, 6:17 PM
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If you are doing this in a gym, Then I think that a campus board would be the best tool to build muscle because you would have a lot more control over the workout.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 17, 2009, 6:24 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Let me see if I understand correctly:
Your timing/rest between problems is exactly the same, whether you repeat 5 problems 3 times over, or do 15 different problems of similar grade?
In that case, IMO there isn't much difference in terms of effect that you'll get.
If you are training by doing 15 problems with rest in between each one, then doing 15 different problems makes more sense b/c they would presumably all have slightly different moves, so your body will go through more varied positions/moves, but doing 5 problems 3 times over (say, if you only have 5 problems at the level you need available to you) would be pretty darn close.
Where you WOULD see the difference is between doing 15 problems with rests in between each one, vs. doing 5 problems without any rest in between them, resting for a timed period, and repeating the set of 5-problems-with-no-rest-between after the timed rest 3 more times. (E.i. a difference between stamina laps and a 4x4-type training)
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jto
Feb 17, 2009, 7:30 PM
Post #6 of 8
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No real difference in hypertrophy. The time under stress matters more. When training for hypertrophy, do boulders that take you 30-50 secs to climb. Sometimes this means you climb some problems back to back, extra slow, with lock offs, feet cutting off after a move etc. Be creative.
Of course you can hit some specific hold types more if you have difficulties with them but that is usually also more injury prone way.
During the phase head for added volume too. An example: Letīs say you have a starting base level of 15x7A in a workout and three workouts a week. Try to head for five 25x7A+ workouts per week during the three month basic strength phase.
Take every third week easier for recuperation and do only 2-3 workouts of lower volume but quite challenging grades. In this case a rest week workout could be 10x6C to 7A.
If you have time for it train twice a day but cut the volume a bit per session. So instead of 25 boulders in a workout hit for two workouts with 15 boulders each. Better recuperation, better neural development etc.
(This post was edited by jto on Feb 17, 2009, 7:33 PM)
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bothomsen
Feb 17, 2009, 11:44 PM
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well - i believe in #2 way... to repeat the same moves, more times.
refering to basic weighttraining principals for hypertrophi.
the more times you work out (sets/reps) a specifik muscle, the better/more it responds - if the load is heavy enough.
so insted of doing a lot of different boulders with many diff. holds, then do few boulders with little variens in the holds/moves. to stimulate the exact muscles many more times.
like:
5x1 repeats of a crimpy boulder(10-12 moves).
5x1 repeats of a pinchy boulder(10-12 moves).
5x1 repeats of a slopy boulder(10-12 moves).
5x1 repeats of a jugy boulder(10-12 moves).
the last one(jugs) maybe even use a weight vest/belt. and on at 45-vertical wall, to work out the abs and lower back(core) to.
but remember to set the level of boulders, so you barely hit failure on the last holds of the 5th set, and not sooner.
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poomasta
Feb 18, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #8 of 8
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Thanks jto & bothomsen...some good food for thought. Jto, I think i might fall apart under that volume of training, but we'll see in the next cycle :) Moving into the recruitment phase soon anyhow...
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