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SkiNowWorkLater
Nov 3, 2010, 7:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2009
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I recently got a weird finger injury that I'm hoping someone can help me out with. Last Friday while hanging from the 2-finger pockets on a hangboard, I started feeling a slight pain around the top knuckle of my middle finger. More accurately, the pain was just below the knuckle on the middle phalanx and on the back/side of the finger (not on the palm side). I stopped my workout immediately, went home, and rested up for the weekend.
The first night I had some lingering pain in my finger but then it felt fine after that. It still continues to feel tight on the back of the finger when I trying to squeeze my hand into a tight fist.
Yesterday I went back to the gym just to test it out and see how pulling on it would feel. I warmed up well and as soon as I started getting on some harder problems the dull pain came back. No sharp pains or any sudden twinges, just a dull pain around the knuckle that just didn't feel right. I ended my workout right away again and I'm back home resting it up.
Any idea what this could be, how best to treat it, and how long it might take to heal? Thanks for any help.
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rockforlife
Nov 3, 2010, 7:51 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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SkiNowWorkLater wrote: I recently got a weird finger injury that I'm hoping someone can help me out with. Last Friday while hanging from the 2-finger pockets on a hangboard, I started feeling a slight pain around the top knuckle of my middle finger. More accurately, the pain was just below the knuckle on the middle phalanx and on the back/side of the finger (not on the palm side). I stopped my workout immediately, went home, and rested up for the weekend. The first night I had some lingering pain in my finger but then it felt fine after that. It still continues to feel tight on the back of the finger when I trying to squeeze my hand into a tight fist. Yesterday I went back to the gym just to test it out and see how pulling on it would feel. I warmed up well and as soon as I started getting on some harder problems the dull pain came back. No sharp pains or any sudden twinges, just a dull pain around the knuckle that just didn't feel right. I ended my workout right away again and I'm back home resting it up. Any idea what this could be, how best to treat it, and how long it might take to heal? Thanks for any help.
Here is a link it will make it easier for you
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p;sb=score&mh=25
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SkiNowWorkLater
Nov 3, 2010, 8:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2009
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Yeah thanks dude. I did search but it's hard to find information when 99.9% of results for "finger injury" are related to tears of the pulleys or the tendon on the palm-side of the finger. I don't believe my injury to be either of these.
Again, any help is very much appreciated.
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onceahardman
Nov 3, 2010, 10:21 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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SkiNowWorkLater wrote: I recently got a weird finger injury that I'm hoping someone can help me out with. Last Friday while hanging from the 2-finger pockets on a hangboard, I started feeling a slight pain around the top knuckle of my middle finger. More accurately, the pain was just below the knuckle on the middle phalanx and on the back/side of the finger (not on the palm side). I stopped my workout immediately, went home, and rested up for the weekend. The first night I had some lingering pain in my finger but then it felt fine after that. It still continues to feel tight on the back of the finger when I trying to squeeze my hand into a tight fist. Yesterday I went back to the gym just to test it out and see how pulling on it would feel. I warmed up well and as soon as I started getting on some harder problems the dull pain came back. No sharp pains or any sudden twinges, just a dull pain around the knuckle that just didn't feel right. I ended my workout right away again and I'm back home resting it up. Any idea what this could be, how best to treat it, and how long it might take to heal? Thanks for any help.
That IS weird. Assuming your description is accurate ( and I have no reason to suspect it's not), it really can't be a flexor element. Next up would be a ligament or capsule strain/tear.
It sounds like an injury of hypermobility, i.e., it moves too much. Do not stretch. Move it within the available range, (AROM-active range of motion). Don't do much loading on it until the pain recedes. Then SLOW progressive loading, until you can hang full body weight on it again, without pain. Good luck, please post your progress.
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rkrocks
Nov 4, 2010, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2010
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Is the pain localized or radiating? Do you have a small nodule at site of pain with bruising or swelling? Do you have a disuption in strength, grip, or dexterity?
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SkiNowWorkLater
Nov 9, 2010, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2009
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Thanks for the help everyone. Since I posted I've been resting my finger and doing periods of running it through its range of motion. Slowly the tightness faded to almost nothing. I went back to the gym last night and with a taped finger was able to climb well. I could feel a bit of tightness at first but it faded as the night of climbing progressed. My finger felt fine at the end of my climbing session and I was psyched.
I'm going to try to climb on it for the next 2 weeks slowly increasing the intensity, being careful not to push too hard too soon. If all goes well I'm going to try to resume my hangboard workouts after this 2 week trial period.
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