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djmacedonas
Jan 13, 2003, 2:06 AM
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About a month ago, I injured my middle finger at the climbing gym. I went back the next day, climbed a bit and gave up. The thing is the pain wasn't sudden or acute, it just sort of built up as I was climbing. There was no loud tear or pop. There was some swelling for a week or so, but it's much better now.
The finger seems to be improving, I have complete range of motion and it seems to be getting stronger. Still, it hurts, especially if I squeeze inside my middle finger, by the base, a little towards the pinky side. I think it's tendonitis, but I'm afraid of much worse, like a ring pulley tear (although there is no 'bowstringing' or triggering or anything like that). Does this injury sound familiar to anyone?
Thanks in advance,
DJM
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bumblesbounce
Jan 13, 2003, 2:45 AM
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My advice, cut off your finger, its only ONE! Just kidding!
Take Advil or something like that, tape it, and deal with. If it hurts that bad than go to an orthopedic or walk into the ER. What's the worst they could do? (besides the 1000 dollar bill) I mean seriously! Don't lose your head over a little finger injury! Some of us have major knee problems and surgies along with many other important parts like wrist, elbows, and ankles!
I say, we devote a top on fingers so we don't get stuff like this... whose the finger expert here?
- Fawn :-D
[ This Message was edited by: bumblesbounce on 2003-01-12 18:46 ]
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enigma
Jan 13, 2003, 6:55 AM
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Stop Squeezing your finger,it sounds like its healing and by putting pressure on it,you exacerbating the intial injury.
I hurt my foot today twisted it,somehow and its sore,but it will heal,I try not to focus so much on my sore areas or I would never climb,run,row or bicycle ride.
Try not to focus so hard,personally I think you sound too obsessed. Of course if it will set your mind at ease,go to a doctor or clinic.
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easysteve
Jan 13, 2003, 7:05 AM
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Cut it off, that finger won't be hurtin' then...
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why73
Jan 13, 2003, 7:06 AM
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I have the same thing...but pointer finger...it has been almost three months and is getting better but still not good....it is the sack that lubricates the joint has burst...pain is when fluid is gone.....unfortuantley i work as a mechanic, which tends to aggrivate it once or twice a week...
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sauron
Jan 13, 2003, 7:20 AM
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My fingers hurt too, but I've been playing guitar the last 2 days straight..
- d.
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grandwall
Jan 14, 2003, 6:34 PM
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I have the same problem in my ring finger. I rested it for 30 days and tried to climb last weekend and it still hurt on climbs 3 full grades below what I normally warm-up on. What do climbers do besides rest in this situation? Can anyone recommend a doctor in the Vancouver area?
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cloudbreak
Jan 14, 2003, 6:41 PM
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Like everyone else said....CUT IT OFF. And, let it be a lesson to your other fingers not to start hurting.
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bumblesbounce
Jan 14, 2003, 7:17 PM
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My fingers hurt, they got slammed in a locker,and I duct taped together and stopped complaining. [ This Message was edited by: bumblesbounce on 2003-01-14 11:18 ]
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tim
Jan 14, 2003, 7:42 PM
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we have an article up on just this topic:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/view.php?ID=22
also look at http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/
I am not sure whether TFC has the information online, but there is an extensive discussion of finger injuries and rehab techniques in Horst's book, and for $17 I think it may be worth your while just to buy the damn book!
--t
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grandwall
Jan 15, 2003, 5:20 PM
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Actually, bumble, I was not complaining at all. I have partially ruptured my second annular pulley in my ring ringer due to overuse and was wondering if anyone had any advice for rehabilitation. If you had any brains at all you would realize that this is different from slamming fingers in a locker, EH!
Cloudbreak, bumble and gansscr: your comments are not necessary. This is an Injuries & Accidents forum not a Write Something Stupid to Make Yourself Look Dumb forum.
Thank you tim. I have already read the article and am divided on the taping issue. Firstly, since my finger is already injured taping the weakest link will make it weaker. Secondly, I have looked at several scientific studies that have examined the effectiveness of taping to support the A2 pulley and none have been able to conclude that this technique is effective. I’m waiting for Horst’s new book to be available in Canada.
Has anyone been to a physiotherapist (or other therapist) that has used techniques other than rest, ice, anti-inflammatories to accelerate the healing process?
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moeman
Jan 15, 2003, 5:30 PM
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You messed up your middle finger, eh. I'd recomend your keep it elevated
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maiorlive
Jan 15, 2003, 5:37 PM
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I had a similar pain in my right index finger for months. It wasn't serious and I only noticed it if I squeezed the finger right next to the knuckle. Taping didn't seem to help, but it did remind me not to pull on that finger too too hard. I figured that my body was giving me a warning to pay attention, but was basically okay.
Then I injured my left hamstring bouldering about a week and a half ago. My physio recommended not climbing, which I did (mostly) for about a week now. My finger has stopped hurting completely.
So I figure the pain wasn't a sign of damage but of fatigue. My finger just wasn't recovering fast enough or developing strength quickly enough to keep up with the amount of climbing I was doing. It wasn't an injury, it was more like sore muscles after a workout. Having said that, it would have been really stupid for me to ignore it and just keep pushing harder until the pain really did indicate an overuse injury.
W
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zee
Jan 15, 2003, 5:39 PM
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I did the same thing to my fingers and they have been in pain for a couple fo months now. They dont hurt when I do the C binding.
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bumblesbounce
Jan 15, 2003, 5:41 PM
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And who gave you the right to argue with us? And we're not looking stupid, your the people complaining about you fingers! I have a lot damn problems with a lot joints and I'm not sitting here saying it hurts, it hurts!
I'm having kneee surgey tommorw, and I'm not sitting here complaining I can't climb, I can't walk, I can't do anything! I'm a very helpful and nice person but when you have the time and pysical abilty to type with your fingers than why complain about them? Doctors can't do much for fingers! And that is plain truth! They can give splints and that is about it!
- Fawn
[ This Message was edited by: bumblesbounce on 2003-01-15 09:43 ]
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jumpingrock
Jan 15, 2003, 6:35 PM
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My suggestion is climb w/o that finger... it may seem difficult but it is possible.
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grandwall
Jan 15, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Ya, I've tried to climb without the injured finger. It's alright cause it prevents me from going insane and prevents any major deconditioning of my climbing muscles but I'm afraid it will result in overcompensation injuries to my other fingers if I climb more than once a week. Thanks for the suggestion, though!
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cookiecrumb
Jan 16, 2003, 9:28 PM
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If you've injured you finger you should let it heal. If you are taking something to dull the pain, notice that it might not be fully healed when you stop feeling pain.
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