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swollenmember
Oct 21, 2003, 4:09 AM
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So those of you out there that have the XP are the roomers true ... does it really chew up the rope? :shock: Im goin to buy one and i just wanted to know.
Thanks for the input
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flagstaff_climber
Oct 21, 2003, 4:12 AM
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I have been using one since they first came out and have nothing bad to say and have not noticed any 'chewing' on the rope.
Rick
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apk
Oct 21, 2003, 4:52 AM
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I haven't had any problems with mine. It works great. I don't see how it can "chew" the rope. Don't believe the rumors...
Alex
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moabbeth
Oct 21, 2003, 4:56 AM
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In reply to: I haven't had any problems with mine. It works great. I don't see how it can "chew" the rope. Don't believe the rumors... Alex
Ditto. I like mine as well.
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msiddens
Oct 21, 2003, 4:57 AM
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In two words, they rock. I've used the ATC's for years and the XP blows the doors off it. Much greater control on raps and belaying your "heavier" partners.
No notice of premature rope wear..
Get it:-)
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theying
Oct 21, 2003, 4:58 AM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2003
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I have had one for about 6 months now and love it. I have not seen any wear on the rope caused by it.
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boz84
Oct 21, 2003, 5:12 AM
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works great with my 9.8mm dry rope, in both modes.
High Friction is great for better control in rappeling, or with thinner ropes/heavier climbers.
There is NO reason to buy a regular ATC, if thats what you are going for, screw your head on straight, and buy the XP, because, IMO, its one of the best belay/rap device on the market.
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crackaddict
Oct 21, 2003, 5:38 AM
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No problems with mine either.
I really like how they work and handle.
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lollipopchic
Oct 21, 2003, 9:11 AM
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No probs so far with mine, though I've only had it for about a month. I think the normal ATC is a little smoother though. But the extra friction on the XTC is good when there is a heavy climber/light belayer.
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gregr
Oct 21, 2003, 9:42 AM
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Ditto to all of the above. Probably the item that I love most in my rack. My girlfriend weighes around 50-55kg and holds me (80kg) no problem.
Cheers
GregR
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yomomma
Oct 21, 2003, 11:05 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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Haven't experienced any rope chew whatsoever. Great device; very smooth.
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crankincraig
Oct 21, 2003, 12:48 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2003
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Love mine. Have and tried both the ATC and the XP. Prefer the XP.
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edge
Oct 21, 2003, 12:51 PM
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I bought one for my 115 lb daughter to belay my 200 lb arse. Positive catches, smooth lowers, no ill effects on the rope (Sterling Marathon, 10.2 mm). We like it.
Alot.
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marshall84
Oct 21, 2003, 12:56 PM
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I have both the ATC and the XP and find myself reaching for the XP most often. Haven't seen any rope wear caused by it.
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daisuke
Oct 21, 2003, 1:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
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I think that more than the XP chewing up the rope, the rope chews up the XP. Mine got stolen not too long ago, but I loved it for the time I had it, I preffer over most other things I've used so far, including the reverso which is one device I just can't like.
D
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ninjaslut
Oct 21, 2003, 1:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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I've been using one for a season; it's great. My 160lb partner has no problem belaying my 230lb ass and my rope looks fine.
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climb_plastic
Oct 21, 2003, 6:07 PM
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The jaws is basically the same thing. BD copied it. I think it's the V shape that really gives the holding power because the jaws feels the same without the "teeth". If you look at the "teeth" they're just round smooth bulges. I got the XP because I thought it operated a little smoother and it's new and looks really cool.
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data118
Oct 21, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Jaws feels lighter and less bulky.
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traddad
Oct 21, 2003, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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After reading Tim O'Neill's account of almost wet sawing through a rap/belay device while decending the Supercaneleta, (AlpinPorn 0) I've sworn off thin walled devices forever. SHIVER
The XP is hefty....but that's goooood.
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swollenmember
Oct 21, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2003
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Thanks for all the great info. And with the knowledge im off to go buy mine and hope it works as great as every one says it does. Also for my two cents i think it looks super cool in blue... matches my harness 8)
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hisdudeness
Dec 12, 2003, 10:38 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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I know I'm late, but I recently bought the ATC-XP and took it on a trial run in Canyon Tajo a few weeks ago. I suppose I should have read the instructions, but I figured how much different from an ATC could it be?
Needless to say, I had about a 140 foot rappel to do from a solid anchor (chain on 3/4 bolt reinforced with cement) that took me nearly 10 minutes with this device! The problem I had was that by having the XP in high-friction mode for the rap off, the rope (a 9.8 dry) was binding hard against the locking biner on my harness, and I literally had so much friction that I couldn't even force the rope through.
After finally getting down, I started wondering if I should have had the device reversed in low-friction. After returning home, I read the small instruction paper that came with the device, which stated that the device should have been reversed for rappelling to low-friction mode, and high-friction for imbalances in belayer/climber weights during climbing.
Anyone else have this problem?
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soleclimbr
Dec 12, 2003, 11:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2002
Posts: 24
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its a sweet atc and it has great controll on raps
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lstockett
Jan 13, 2004, 8:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2003
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I had a Trango Jaws and liked it very much Sadly, I dropped it from the top of a climb as the sun was setting one evening. (and wished that I'd practiced the alternate methods of rappelling, but that's another story).
Anyway, I replaced it with a BD ATC-XP. I like the XP much better than I did my Jaws. It hasn't hurt my rope a bit, and I haven't even heard the rumor.
By the way, if you back up you rappels with a prusic, then you'll almost certainly want to use the low friction mode for rappeling. Otherwise you might find that you have too much friction to rappel efficiently.
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davidji
Jan 13, 2004, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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In reply to: Anyway, I replaced it with a BD ATC-XP. I like the XP much better than I did my Jaws. |
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