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psirro
Jan 17, 2004, 7:42 PM
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i use for help small screws 6milemetres diametre from bolt to bolt then i hit them until they disapear inside the rock
is there any better technique?
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popol
Jan 17, 2004, 8:53 PM
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cams, nuts, pieces of rope, all other removable gear, of coarse (if you can place them, not always possible).
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tenn_dawg
Jan 17, 2004, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: i use for help small screws 6milemetres diametre from bolt to bolt then i hit them until they disapear inside the rock is there any better technique?
I really don't know what you're talking about.
I'd just place a direcitonal bolt close to the ground, then place the anchor bolts. Set yourself up a mechanical advantage, and crank a rope down tight between the first bolt, and the anchors. Use this rope to hold you close to the wall while you're drilling.
Make sence?
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psirro
Jan 17, 2004, 10:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i use for help small screws 6milemetres diametre from bolt to bolt then i hit them until they disapear inside the rock is there any better technique? I really don't know what you're talking about. I'd just place a direcitonal bolt close to the ground, then place the anchor bolts. Set yourself up a mechanical advantage, and crank a rope down tight between the first bolt, and the anchors. Use this rope to hold you close to the wall while you're drilling. Make sence?
have you ever tryied this ?well you say it like its easy but believe me its not even if the rope is static cant do
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popol
Jan 17, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: I'd just place a direcitonal bolt close to the ground, then place the anchor bolts. Set yourself up a mechanical advantage, and crank a rope down tight between the first bolt, and the anchors. Use this rope to hold you close to the wall while you're drilling.
Not working, dude :cry: Even not for very short pitches.
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tenn_dawg
Jan 17, 2004, 11:51 PM
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Well, okay. I've seen it work up to about 15deg overhanging, but I imagine it would be tough for anything steeper than that.
Remember that as you move higher, (or lower) you run your directional rope through a biner on the bolt you just placed to help you stay in tight.
Other than that, try some aid gear. Sky hooks, cam hooks, wires. Hell, break out the aiders if you can get anything in, and drill from them rather than from the rap rope. Then if your shoddy pro pulls, you'll fall onto the rope.
How far from a road is this climb? Can you bring a 30' ladder? How LONG is the climb, is using a ladder even feasable for bolting the route?
I"m just throwing out ideas. There isn't going to be a clear answer as every climb is different. Good luck.
Travis
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overlord
Jan 19, 2004, 9:02 AM
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1. ladder or scaffolding
2. aid gear
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corona
Apr 22, 2008, 10:11 AM
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Any other ideas? How were, say Rifle or some of the steep non-pockety faces at the Red developed? I'm looking at 30-50 degree overhanging, sloping jug-studded limestone. No pockets, seams, or cracks for cams or aid gear; no edges for hooks; you'd spend a year drilling 6mm aid bolts; scaffolding unfeasible for both expense and the site. Been using tyrolean lines running perpendicular to tightly cinched statics + loose rap lines, but that's a bloody pain. Any other ideas are welcome!
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chossmonkey
Apr 22, 2008, 11:28 AM
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corona wrote: Any other ideas? How were, say Rifle or some of the steep non-pockety faces at the Red developed? I'm looking at 30-50 degree overhanging, sloping jug-studded limestone. No pockets, seams, or cracks for cams or aid gear; no edges for hooks; you'd spend a year drilling 6mm aid bolts; scaffolding unfeasible for both expense and the site. Been using tyrolean lines running perpendicular to tightly cinched statics + loose rap lines, but that's a bloody pain. Any other ideas are welcome!
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taydude
Apr 22, 2008, 11:38 AM
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Solution: Sack up and free solo.
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shockabuku
Apr 22, 2008, 1:53 PM
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Probably have to use something more rigid than a standard 2x4 for something that overhanging.
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j_ung
Apr 22, 2008, 2:05 PM
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True. Make it sideways.
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shockabuku
Apr 22, 2008, 2:27 PM
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j_ung wrote: True. Make it sideways.
Mmm, sideways, I always liked it sideways!
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roughster
Apr 22, 2008, 3:01 PM
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Use 1/4" redheads with regular hangers for body weight only on rappel. A 1/4" hole with the stud pulled out is damn near invisible. If you want, just glob a drop of acrylic paint or quickset cement patch (match color to rock) to fill the left over hole. Use as needed between bolts to keep you in while you drill the real protection.
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tolman_paul
Apr 22, 2008, 4:33 PM
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I'm assuming your drilling with power. With that, I'd say drill deep 1/4" holes, use 1/4" stud bolts for aiding, and when you're done pull the hangers and bang the bolts in flush, then glue/rock dust over the holes.
That said, if the wall had enough holds to climb, I can't see how you can't aid up it. You can use hooks in opposition, either verticle or horrizontal opposition, and so forth.
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stymingersfink
Apr 22, 2008, 6:49 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: if the wall had enough holds to climb, I can't see how you can't aid up it. You can use hooks in opposition, either verticle or horrizontal opposition, and so forth.
This based upon my own observation to this point in my climbing. It may not hold entirely true, but I have a sneaking suspicion the 60% of the time, it works everytime.
Become a better aid-climber, or install the bolt ladder and deal with it.
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salamanizer
Apr 22, 2008, 7:51 PM
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Bat hooking works well too. Those are 1/4 in holes drilled just deep enough to hang a bomber hook from. This may not always be possible though. Just use your head and work with what you got.
Roughs Idea of the cheap 1/4 in bolts is probably the best, easiest and most convenient way though.
I like the Willy Stick also, adds a little spice to a rather boring time consuming ordeal.
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norushnomore
May 12, 2008, 9:39 PM
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Try heavy duty flag pole. They come in many diff config options including telescoping and so on.
Attach one end to the rap station and middle to the first bolt then use free end to keep yourself in position.
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quiteatingmysteak
May 12, 2008, 10:13 PM
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[quote "psirro"]i use for help small screws 6milemetres diametre from bolt to bolt then i hit them until they disapear inside the rock
is there any better technique?[/quote]
[url http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttaid234/] Hook or Book![/url]
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(scared me just watching him) 
