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pop-corn
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Aug 7, 2004, 9:19 AM
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Hello,
I am from Croatia and I need help.
I am doing research for newspapers about top 10 biggest climbing accidents in world...
Can someone help me?
Please it is important to have that today...
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girlclimb
Aug 7, 2004, 12:17 PM
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just rock climbing or like alpine as well?
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corpse
Aug 7, 2004, 1:02 PM
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How do you define the Top 10 biggest accidents? most ppl injured? longest fall? freakiest or stupidest mistake? So many things are subjective.
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wormly81
Aug 7, 2004, 1:29 PM
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Just write a paper on Joe Simpson. You should be able to find his book "Touching the Void". If your looking for some interesting material about surviving climbing accidents, thats a great start.
Best of luck,
Jeff
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 7, 2004, 1:40 PM
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I would imagine that the accident on the matterhorn that is depicted in that famous charcoal setch should be in there. Joe simpson would rate as well. read the white spider.
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stompie
Aug 7, 2004, 4:01 PM
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You know the name/ artist for this piece? You have my curiosity peaked.
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calamity_chk
Aug 8, 2004, 12:06 AM
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You might want to check out the American Alpine Journal and/or Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
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billcoe_
Aug 9, 2004, 3:10 AM
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This is more the kind of thing you discuss quietly around a campfire with your friends after a great day out, it seems a tad wrong to discuss this on the internet as it lacks the little quite nuances you can interject verbally but here goes:
I think you could define it further:
Alpine or Rock? Sub-catagories? Accidents with fatalities or just injuries?
Biggest air before hitting?
A) Solo rock
b) Rope team rock
Most people involved?
Most fatalities -single incident?
Most fatalities -single season on 1 mountain.
Adding to the lists above: (the 1938 White Spider: tragic Eiger fatalities would make my list too.)
Rock Solo longest air: Derek Hershey's free solo peel off of Sentinal or Dwight Bishops recent fall in the Tetons?
http://www.billingsgazette.com/index.php?id=1&display=rednews/2004/07/20/build/state/45-missing-climber.inc
Biggest air before hitting? 3 way tie? Jim Madson rappelling off the end of a rope at the top of El Cap in the late 60's, the great John Harlan having a 7mm rope part on the Eiger while jumaring about the same time period or could it be the aforementioned Edmond Whympers Matterhorn party tumble in the what: late 1800's?.
Most people involved? Mt. Hood in Oregon has had a couple of them. 12 boy scouts sliding into a crevase, an Oregon Episopal School outting where many suffocated in a snow cave during a white out.
Most fatalities in a single incident? Hard to say, didn't the collapse of some ice on Rainers std route a few years ago kill like @ 10 people?
Most fatalities -single season on 1 mountain would most likely be k2 @1986: followed by the well publicised Everest in '96 debacle.
I suspect I may be too later for your deadline though. My guess is that Europe has had about 10 we are overlooking and don't know about for every one we have posted.
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findingit
Aug 9, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Number one would have to be the accident after the first ascent of the Matterhorn. Edward Whymper and his crew. On the descent I believe (from faded memory) that 3 or 4 men fell to their deaths and Whymper had to guide the remaining two partners down whilst they were panicked and possibly injured (faded memory again). Anyways, I think that was the first major incident that thrust the danger of climbing into the public eye. Very significant if you ask me. I think Whymper arrested the fall, but the rope snapped (they were all tied into one) and the climbers lower on the rope were gone.
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billcoe_
Aug 9, 2004, 4:01 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: This is more the kind of thing you discuss quietly around a campfire with your friends after a great day out, it seems a tad wrong to discuss this on the internet as it lacks the little quite nuances you can interject verbally but here goes: Bill, Thanks for so clearly stating what I was having a tough time defining. There's a certain amount of reverence needing to be assigned this type of work. These folks were all pioneers, IMHO, and to simply categorize their lives and accomplishments as "Top Ten" trivializes their pursuits. I hope the end result is something more significant than the mostly sensationalized reports we see on the standard TV news magazines. Skibs
I totally concur Skibabeage:
Especially Dwight - that was recent and still painful for many people. I was thinking about Dwight just last weekend romping (roped) up an easy 5.7 as I turned an exposed corner when the wind hit my hair and the raptors soared overhead.
It was however, an amazing feat which Dwight had already previously pulled off in Dwight style. Very quiet and with no chestbeating, news articals or press releases. Something which less than 1% percent of real hardcore regular climbers today would even think they would want to try, let alone do.
I'd like to see one of Dwights partners do a full artical on his life and climbs for R & I or Climbing. Like a lot of people in Idaho/Montana/Wyoming, they kick ass as climbers but you rarely hear of them. I hope my noting Dwight is not misconstrued or make those who knew him angry and in more pain. It just that his life should be noted and brought forward IMO. Many climbers would consider themselves a success to get up only 1 of the mountains he was going to do that day, let alone enchainig a whole buch of them at once in an unroped solo.
Side note Skibabage: I really appreciate the interesting news posts which you so frequently find and share. Thank you so much for sharing with us all!
Regards:
Bill
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j_ung
Aug 9, 2004, 4:14 PM
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Are you including avalanche deaths, because damn, few things have the ability to erase lives so suddenly and completely as avalanches.
My gut, however, tells me that you're looking for the most infamous accidents you can find. If that is the case then the 1996 Everest tragedy and Joe Simpson's Cordiera Blanca epic should probably top your list. A day isn't much time. Tight deadlines suck, man. Good luck.
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jimthespider
Aug 9, 2004, 7:40 PM
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What about the accident in Oregon? The one where the guy in the back fell and pulled his 3 buddies down and they caught others on the way down and all of them fell into a crevasse...3 dead the rest hurt. Then the rescue chopper crashes...
I think it was Mt Hood in late 90's.
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polarwid
Aug 9, 2004, 7:48 PM
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polarwid moved this thread from Injuries & Accidents to Climbing History & Trivia.
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web_slave
Aug 9, 2004, 8:19 PM
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What about the accident on Khan Tengri that happened the other day?
http://www.mounteverest.net/...etodayAug62004.shtml
The official word from the South Side Base Camp manager, working under the tour operator, Ak-Say, maintains that 15 Russians arrived yesterday to help with rescue efforts and several bodies were recovered from the mountain. It is very difficult to dig as the avalanche has solidified and is very hard. They maintain that there have been 11 casualties.
According to AdventureStats.com, should the count remain at 11 dead climbers, this Khan Tengri tragedy will be the 7th most deadly mountain tragedy ever. Pik Lenin is by far the most deadly single even in the history of mountaineering. In 1990, 43 climbers died when an earthquake triggered a giant serac fall. Of the ten most deadly mountaineering tragedies, all but one was caused by an avalanche and less than half were on 8000m mountains – Everest, Manaslu, and Nanga Parbat.
Peak Lenin appears a second time on the list when in 1974, 8 members of an all-Russian women’s team died while trapped high up in a storm. There is no indication that this ice avalanche on Khan Tengri was caused by any seismic disturbances like the one that triggered the Peak Lenin serac collapse.
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neuroshock
Aug 9, 2004, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: What about the accident in Oregon? The one where the guy in the back fell and pulled his 3 buddies down and they caught others on the way down and all of them fell into a crevasse...3 dead the rest hurt. Then the rescue chopper crashes... I think it was Mt Hood in late 90's.
http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_HeliCrash.htm
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pbjosh
Aug 9, 2004, 9:41 PM
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In reply to: If that is the case then the 1996 Everest tragedy and Joe Simpson's Cordiera Blanca epic should probably top your list. A day isn't much time. Tight deadlines suck, man. Good luck.
Technically it was the Cordillera Huayhuash.
There was an accident on Pik Lenin ~10-15 years ago that killed over 40 climbers. Avi I believe...
A couple of other famous accidents include Doug Scott on the Ogre (detailed in one of the rags a couple years back) and the magic self arrest on the American K2 expedition in the 50's that saved 6 lives (I can't remember names right now however).
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namascar
Aug 9, 2004, 9:54 PM
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One of the most classics accidents is the one that gave name to the Hinterstroisser traverse in the Eiger's north face.
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