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toasty
Sep 8, 2004, 6:31 PM
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After climbing very hard (2+ hours straight, your entire upper body is worked out, etc.), how long is it before you go back and do it again? Do you wait until you're completely unsore, or start again with a tinge of soreness in your muscles? Do any of you climb for 2+ hours for a few days in a row, and if so, how does it affect you?
What would be the best routine to gain power using a rock wall?
How about a pullup bar? Would high sets and low reps or low sets and high reps work better for building power?
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dimension4
Sep 8, 2004, 7:31 PM
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I generally climb about 5 days per week. I usaully climb for up to 2 hours straight, and over 2 hours when I go outside. I generally ned to take a rest day if I climb over 6 days in a row because my joints feel too stressed. I find that climbing frequently keeps my muscles more relaxed; it's as if they are still warmed up from the previous day.
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andy_reagan
Sep 8, 2004, 7:34 PM
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A definition: power, the ability to move explosively between holds. Nothing has built more power for me (definitely a weak point for me) than doing overhanging boulder problems. The ability to step off and look at the problem and then apply whatever "beta" you can deduce allows you to really pull off some powerful moves! You probably wont be able to climb at this level doing a route.
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overlord
Sep 9, 2004, 9:13 AM
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for power training you need to work short hard sequences, no matter what training tool you use.
that meas short hard boulder problems (about 4-10 moves, no more), weighted pullups, campusing etc.
if im power training, i usually wait until the soreness is completely gone (usually one day rest). you need ot remeber that youre really pushing it to the max and if youre not rested, youre asking for injuries. that is especially true for tendons, because they have a longer recovery time than muscles.
i sometimes do a day of power followed by a day of power endurance(thats about 15-30 moves), but then i rest for at least one day, better two. so my suggestion is that you do one day on, one day off (two days if youre still sore) and really push it. i dont need to mention that warming up is really important, right???
be carefull not to get injured. thik of it this way: is it better to get one extra day off and know you wont pull something or continue, pull something and get 3 months off. i once chose the latter. ill never do it again.
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toasty
Sep 9, 2004, 2:30 PM
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What's campusing?
What's your warm-up routine?
Thank you for answering all of my questions.
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overlord
Sep 9, 2004, 2:47 PM
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In reply to: What's campusing? What's your warm-up routine? Thank you for answering all of my questions.
campusing is climbing without using your feet. does wonder for back/arm strength.
a campus board is basicly a board with strips of wood screwed onto it (campus rungs). it really improves your explosive power, but is really dangerous if you dont know what youre doing. there are basicly two ways to get up one: one is to reach for the next rung (up or down) with one hand (you can match or not on the previous rung, its harder not to), thats the more static way, the other is to jump from rung to rung using both hands.
here are some pics i have managed to find:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=32365
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=2938
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=36705
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=2937
i warm up by first stretching gently, do some windmilling and stuff to get the blood flowing throught the bigger muscles 8if its cold, some running, squats and stuff), then i start with some easy routes to get pumped just a bit. then i rest for some time, stretch my fingers again, hit some moderates, stretch again. then comes the tricky part. you need to feel that your fingers are "warm". if theyre not warm yet, you need to do some more moderates.
it may sound time consuming (well, it is truth to tell), bout i have noticed that i can do much harder stuff when im properly warmed up and thus can train better. plus, you really reduce the risk of injurie.
the cool down sequence consists of a few really easy routes, followed by thourugh stretching. i also incorporate any other excercises that are not aimed at the back/arms/fingers here, like abs, pushups etc. offcourse all this comes before stretching.
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j_ung
Sep 9, 2004, 3:30 PM
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:lol:
Three out of four campusers wearing climbing shoes.
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overlord
Sep 9, 2004, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: :lol: Three out of four campusers wearing climbing shoes.
thats maybe because most of climbers think campus photos are really boring and dont even take them. but you get a showoff every now and then. :wink:
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lordshockspeare
Sep 14, 2004, 11:55 PM
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in ansewer to your question, one good standby that I picked up from my days as an endurance athlete; is your morning heartrate. Just get in the habit of taking your morning heartrate, and when it is higher than normal it means your body isn't fully recovered and you should probably wait another day before another hard workout. This is also really good way to see if your getting sick or not. During my days of hard endurance training it was cool to see my morning heart rate gradually go down. For reference mine is usually low forties!
Salud!
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