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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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Thanksgiving at JT
After a long drive from the Bay Area we finally reach the “group campground 4” at JT. The plan was to climb on Friday too, but we get there just in time to mount our tents and cook a dessert for the TG feast only few hours away. The place is beautiful and not cold at all. We reach the huge campfire and meet all the folks from Rock rendezvous for a party that will last until 1 am with plenty of drinking and laughs. ( well maybe a bit too much drink – mixing, according to my head )
Saturday morning we hit the “Blob” for a first contact with JT climbing. I start on “Papa woosley” doing well for the first 3 bolts, I need to be few inch taller to reach the 4th bolt, I manage to clip after a while but at that point my calves are totally in elvis mode, I bail the final runout for Jeff that finishes the route and sets up the anchor (since somebody thought it was a good idea to smash the 2 bots anchor on top of the wall) Great crimpy climb, a bit painful, but hey I have to get used to the type of rock I guess.
We’re slow and by the end of the day I manage to climb just “Mama woosley” on TR and TR papa again, plus wondering straight up bethween the 2 for a nice slab TR fun 10b-ish. Mama is way easier than papa, a 10a trad I could lead even being “just” a sport climber. Next time for sure. Jeff manages to do also a 5.7 crack that he loves on the left side of the formation. The shade comes and with it the cold, we go back to camp ready for a huge steak, my first taste of marshmallows ( about time! ) and some more campfire fun. I just have one beer this time and a whole bottle of water.
Sunday:
Morning breakfast “pioneer” style, sausages and eggs while all the others are eating ealthy non-fat yogurt looking at us puzzled ( and a bit envious I’m sure ) . Later Sean, a super nice local guy, takes us to the Houser Buttress, in Real Hidden Valley. I start on “Loose Lady” a beautiful 10a slab. I manage to climb the first 4 bolts of it ( 7 total for a full ropelenght of 60 meters ) then got shut down mentally by the 40MPH wind and the runout “Bachar” style that the route presents. Fingers are numb and it’s like climbing on crimps on top of a car with a more than “healthy” runout under you, If you fail you’ll fall sideways because of the windstorm. A bit too much. Jeff “The man” saves the day again, finishing the lead. It takes a bit to recover from the cold because of the wind, but as soon as I have my fingers back I start on “Puss in Boots” a stellar 11c on TR this time ( oh yeah ) . I’ll like to lead this after I’m done but by then we’re all freezing out, the temperature dropped and the wind increased, when it’s this cold climbing is not much fun. We get down looking for a warmer area.
Thinking about it later I realize that the freezing wind stopped me, it was a “new thing” thrown into the equation, I did runout climbs before, and 10a is very well within my comfort zone, but the wind really messed up my head, actually moving me away from the wall when I was stepping up. That scared me and I chickened out. Next time mama…next time….you’re not going anywhere.
We end up somewhere lower in the area, and Sean starts on a 5.7 crack carrying a HUGE rack for this 20 meters route…Jeff leads a similar route to the right, he stops places pro and climbs higer again, sending the route. My plan was to TR the route first, clean it and try it again on trad lead, but after belaying I’m frozen again not feeling to launch myself in something while I’m cold and really not attracted by facing that wind again. I end up bouldering around those beautiful rock formations randomly until the routes are clean and the gear back in the packs.
We end up eating at “Crossroads” and straight to bed. I’m exhausted, more because of the wind than the climbs, even if my fingertips are…gone after “Puss in boots”.
Joshua is a beautiful place, I just need to get there more, possibly when is a bit warmer and not that windy. The drive back home never ends, we get a flat, no big deal, but I have the last shift at the wheel, I’m dead tired and very happy when we finally get back to Pleasanton.
Loved the place and the type of climbing, probably without the wind I would have finished my routes and climbed more. Too bad I did not had a chance to try some trad leads.
Next time Joshua. Next time.
Loose Lady 10a (R)...add 40mph wind...
http://images.climbingjtree.com/album/sized/61.jpg
Puss in Boots (11c)- arete left of the crack
http://images.climbingjtree.com/album/sized/756.jpg
Pap and mama woosley
http://images.climbingjtree.com/beta/sized/55.jpg
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slhappy
Nov 29, 2004, 8:54 PM
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you should change your user id. :shock:
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jdouble
Nov 29, 2004, 8:57 PM
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In reply to: you should change your user id. :shock:
LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:
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caughtinside
Nov 29, 2004, 8:58 PM
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Hey Paolo,
Good to hear you made it down, and sorry I missed you! We were supposed to climb in Real hidden valley on Sunday, but the gale force freezing wind saturday evening convinced us (and flattened my tent!) that we were better off in LA.
Aaron even made it out, and we did some good bouldering on saturday afternoon.
Tuesday through saturday afternoon was perfect conditions, got some great climbs (and some great feasting!) in.
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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NOOOOOOOOOO
You guys were there too? Darn! I would have loved to climb together!
Yep the wind was freezing cold. I had my tent flattened too. The thing came back up everytime thou!
Well next time!
In reply to: Hey Paolo, Good to hear you made it down, and sorry I missed you! We were supposed to climb in Real hidden valley on Sunday, but the gale force freezing wind saturday evening convinced us (and flattened my tent!) that we were better off in LA. Aaron even made it out, and we did some good bouldering on saturday afternoon. Tuesday through saturday afternoon was perfect conditions, got some great climbs (and some great feasting!) in. |
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 9:07 PM
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You're right. But hey how was your first time at JT out of the cracks and on the faces?? :wink:
TR-SlabLizard :lol:
In reply to: you should change your user id. :shock: |
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kalcario
Nov 29, 2004, 9:10 PM
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*I manage to climb the first 4 bolts of it ( 7 total for a full ropelenght of 60 meters ) then got shut down mentally by the 40MPH wind and the runout “Bachar” style that the route presents.*
Believe it or not Loose Lady is G-rated, saying LL is "runout Bachar style" is pretty funny, wait till you go to Tuolumne haha...also LL is nowhere near 60 meters, more like 40
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jdouble
Nov 29, 2004, 9:22 PM
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In reply to: You're right. But hey how was your first time at JT out of the cracks and on the faces?? :wink: TR-SlabLizard :lol: In reply to: you should change your user id. :shock:
Good point! Actually, my first trip to J-tree was eye opening but the other way around. I was climbing around 5.10/5.11 sport and had very little crack experience. My partner for that first trip was very experienced and mostly into the mixed routes/face routes. As a face climber myself, I TR'd my first 'warm up climb' (Read My Lips 11a) without a hang. I was stoked and thought this was my level in J-tree. Wrong.
My next trip I went with a old school crackster. That is when I learned the truth in his saying 'the hardest climb in the world is a J-Tree 5.9 crack'. If you thought the face climbs were challenging, I look forward to your trip report when you get on more of the cracks!
Thanks for your report, well written and I loved the pictures.
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 9:22 PM
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What does "G" rated means? You're right, I was referring to the 60mt rope all extended once down, not a full 60 meters pitch. As for Toulomne I'll get there sooner or later. As I'll get back in JT too!
Getting scared and trying again is part of getting better at climbing, I'm not afraid to say whenI am scared.. As for the B-Y at Toulomne...who knows, maybe one day I'll be bold enough to try it. Did you?
In reply to: *I manage to climb the first 4 bolts of it ( 7 total for a full ropelenght of 60 meters ) then got shut down mentally by the 40MPH wind and the runout “Bachar” style that the route presents.* Believe it or not Loose Lady is G-rated, saying LL is "runout Bachar style" is pretty funny, wait till you go to Tuolumne haha...also LL is nowhere near 60 meters, more like 40 |
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fredbob
Nov 29, 2004, 9:26 PM
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In reply to: *I manage to climb the first 4 bolts of it ( 7 total for a full ropelenght of 60 meters ) then got shut down mentally by the 40MPH wind and the runout “Bachar†style that the route presents.* Believe it or not Loose Lady is G-rated, saying LL is "runout Bachar style" is pretty funny, wait till you go to Tuolumne haha...also LL is nowhere near 60 meters, more like 40
I was going to refrain from commenting, but since joe chimmed in:
Actually, I would guess Loose Lady is barely 35 meters long (but that is decent sized for Josh). And, yes, it is well protected for a Josh face route.
Loose Lady is pretty exposed to the wind. Leading it is not exactly where you would want to be when it is blowing hard. Good windly day alternatives include: Steve Canyon and Pope's Crack area. Both are close to HVCG.
Glad you had a good time. Head back in the Spring when the weather warms up (and maybe the new guide will be out).
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Thanks to all for the comments, pics are not mine but from http://www.climbingjtree.com.
By the way, when I post a TR I'm not "judging" a place, just sharing my trip with other climbers. Of course you put your impressions too, it's obvious, just don't take it as you will take a description on a guidebook! It's a TR!
Do you guys were bold, strong and used to runout the first day you started climbing or visited a new area or you learned your way time after time?
That route with that wind was scary ( for a first timer in JT ) gimme some slack!
TR_slab_lizard
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kalcario
Nov 29, 2004, 9:39 PM
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*What does "G" rated means?*
G means well protected, PG means heads up, R is you're lucky to avoid injury if you fall, and X is you fall, you die. It's taken from our movie rating system.
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simplesoul
Nov 29, 2004, 10:00 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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My brother was going to JT for thanksgiving but ended up coming home. it was good to see him but im sure he missed one hell of a good time. Was it crouded there or pretty open TG weekend?
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 10:03 PM
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Not crowded at all and cold just sat evening and sunday
In reply to: My brother was going to JT for thanksgiving but ended up coming home. it was good to see him but im sure he missed one hell of a good time. Was it crouded there or pretty open TG weekend? |
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ammon
Nov 29, 2004, 10:20 PM
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Hey Paolo,
Darn, I missed you too, I was there until Sunday.
Oh well, next time.... huh? Great trip report.
In reply to: *What does "G" rated means?* G means well protected, PG means heads up, R is you're lucky to avoid injury if you fall, and X is you fall, you die. It's taken from our movie rating system.
This must have just come in effect because that's news to me. I've only seen R and X rated routes but I haven't bought a new guide book in years. R was for Run-out and X was for DEATH.
Cheers, Ammon
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Yep!
I was the one flapping like a flag on a 10a! :)
Hope I'll catch you sometime Ammon!
In reply to: Hey Paolo, Darn, I missed you too, I was there until Sunday. Oh well, next time.... huh? Great trip report. Cheers, Ammon |
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slablizard
Nov 29, 2004, 10:25 PM
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In reply to: Hey Paolo, Darn, I missed you too, I was there until Sunday. Oh well, next time.... huh? Great trip report. In reply to: *What does "G" rated means?* G means well protected, PG means heads up, R is you're lucky to avoid injury if you fall, and X is you fall, you die. It's taken from our movie rating system. This must have just come in effect because that's news to me. I've only seen R and X rated routes but I haven't bought a new guide book in years. R was for Run-out and X was for DEATH. Cheers, Ammon |
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ricardol
Nov 29, 2004, 10:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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yo Paulo! ..
.. great TR .. it was great sitting around the fire for TG dinner ..
.. seems like lots of people were in JTree over the weekend..
-- ricardo
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slablizard
Nov 30, 2004, 12:17 AM
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WOHOOOO!
Great pics man! Thanks!
As for the wind tunnel...yes, I'm growing my nails to do better next time!
can you send me the originals on my hotmail!
Thanks for taking me there Sean, Oh! And for sending me up that route too.. I learned something :)
Never listen to a trad guy when he suggests you a route! :wink:
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