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mother_sheep


Sep 20, 2004, 3:38 PM
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Amazing Climbing Records
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While my partner and I were hiking off Hallets this weekend, we were talking about some amazing climbing records. One that stood out locally was this guy who rode his bike from Boulder to the Park, ran the trail up to The Diamond, soloed the Casual Route and summated in 5 hours!!! I wonder if you train for that purpose and that purpose only, how close an average Joe could come to touching that record. AMAZING!!

Post amazing climbing records here. I know there's lots!!!


killclimbz


Sep 20, 2004, 3:47 PM
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I believe the person you are refering to is either Derek Hersey or Charlie Fowler. Both of them were (are) amazing atheletes.


musicman


Sep 20, 2004, 3:50 PM
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Goran Kropp, rode a bike with all his gear from Stockholm to Everest base camp, soloed the whole mountain, then rode home. Now thats' impressive, too bad he is no longer alive to talk about it.


rockprodigy


Sep 20, 2004, 5:37 PM
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Rumor has it, Alex Lowe climbed the Great White Icicle (Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT) in 20 minutes car-to-car. You kind of have to see it to appreciate that.... I hear he used track spikes instead of boots and crampons.


brianinslc


Sep 20, 2004, 6:14 PM
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In reply to:
Rumor has it, Alex Lowe climbed the Great White Icicle (Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT) in 20 minutes car-to-car. You kind of have to see it to appreciate that.... I hear he used track spikes instead of boots and crampons.

Ryan's ascent of Steort's Ridge (3p 5.6 route) on the Dead Snag Arete in Big Cottonwood, car-to-car, in under 10 minutes...

Video is hilarious.

Also have a friend who supposedly climbed the Dean Snag 25 times in a day... I should track that down and see if its true. That'd be around 75 pitches! Of course, given Ryan's time, that'd only take 5 or so hours...

Hasn't BB or MT done the GWI twice in under an hour? BB says when he speed solo's multiple laps, he takes the time to change jackets so it doesn't bum out the guys that are pitchin' it out at a normal pace. Way too funny.

Brian in SLC


steelmonkey


Sep 20, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
One that stood out locally was this guy who rode his bike from Boulder to the Park, ran the trail up to The Diamond, soloed the Casual Route and summated in 5 hours!!!

I can't confirm this right at the moment, but this was probably Roger Briggs. I believe the unofficial name for doing this is the Long's Peak Triathlon.


flamer


Sep 20, 2004, 11:58 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
One that stood out locally was this guy who rode his bike from Boulder to the Park, ran the trail up to The Diamond, soloed the Casual Route and summated in 5 hours!!!

I can't confirm this right at the moment, but this was probably Roger Briggs. I believe the unofficial name for doing this is the Long's Peak Triathlon.

Yes, it was roger briggs.

josh


dingus


Sep 21, 2004, 12:05 AM
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Put this in your Hallet pipe! Layton Kor and Ray Northcutt climbed the Northcutt Carter route up Hallet Peak in 1959, in one hour and ten minutes bottom to top.

Cheers
DMT


steelmonkey


Sep 21, 2004, 4:17 PM
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Got more info on the Longs Peak Triathlon (human powered from Boulder to the top of Longs) record from my friend Bill:

In reply to:
"Roger Briggs has the one-day record: 5h45m. The round trip is Kevin Cooney and Neil Beidleman at <11 hours. The latter was with support. I don't think Roger had support, but he needed less gear - he climbed
unroped!"

I pointed out to Bill that this record wasn't on his site and he said he needs to get it up there. If you want to check out climbing, biking and trail running speed records, you can surf his site at:

http://www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/


climberchic


Sep 21, 2004, 4:25 PM
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In reply to:
I believe the person you are refering to is either Derek Hersey or Charlie Fowler. Both of them were (are) amazing atheletes.

Maybe someone should ask Charlie charlieclimber :wink:


clmbr3


Feb 8, 2005, 11:20 AM
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Rolando Garibotti's record for the grand traverse of the tetons is pretty phenomenal. 6 Hours and change, I think? (alex lowe held the old record of 8.5 hours for a long time...)

And, of course, the enchainments done in Chamonix are pretty absurd.


towsonclimber


Feb 14, 2005, 7:02 AM
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how about the huber brothers climbing Zodiac on el cap in something like low 2.5 hours


vegastradguy


Feb 14, 2005, 7:07 AM
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actually, the Hubers managed to fire Zodiac in 1hr 57min, i believe...pre-cleaning, of course.

anyone remember Potter's record go at Royal Arches? Some insanely quick time- not to mention his and Florines random speed ascents up all the big stuff.

check Ammon's site for his and Flyin' Brian's speed ascents in Zion and Yosemite.


anykineclimb


Feb 14, 2005, 7:25 AM
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Everest speed ascent by Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
BC to BC 10 hours, 56 minutes and 46 seconds.

He reached the summit in 3 hours 56 min!


harrisha


Feb 14, 2005, 7:37 AM
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Dean Potter did some speed climbing race out west with somebody. Instead of following the rule and having each partner climb the whole way they "did it the way they'd do it in Yosimite" and simul climbing and tying off belays while the 2nd jugged. Anyways the cliff was 1000+ ft. they flashed it in like 45 min.


anykineclimb


Feb 14, 2005, 10:54 AM
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Yeah, that was in Canon City.
They were DQ'd because they broke every rule. LOL
They were supposed to swap leads and no French Aid.

Winners came in at around 1hour 10 minutes or something.


montaniero


Feb 26, 2005, 12:21 AM
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As you were talking about speed climbing, take a load of this:

In 1985 the french alpinist Christophe Profit did something "exceptional", I don't know if this is a record, but certainly a remarkable exploit:

Climbed "the three greatest problems in the Alps" in LESS THAN 24 HOURS :

- The Linceul, North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.
- The Schmid Route, North Face of the Matterhorn.
- The 1938 Route, North Face of the Eiger.

REMARKABLE INDEED!! There was an helicopter involved in the enchainment to transport him from summit to base of the face of his next climb. This guy must be carved in stone..tough as a nail.

THEN a couple of years later, he did tried to repeat the same feat but in WINTER. This time he went up the Jorasses via the Croz Spur (ouch). He failed miserably...it took him 42 HOURS!!!!


kpj240789


Feb 27, 2005, 4:01 PM
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I think Hans Florine did the nose in 2 hours 32 minutes


cintune


Feb 27, 2005, 4:26 PM
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Martin Moran's and Simon Jenkins' "Alps 4000." 75 peaks in 52 days, using 5 nuts, 2 cams, 6 slings and 2 ice screws between them. (David & Charles Books, 1994.)


pushsendnorcal


Feb 27, 2005, 4:30 PM
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Soooo... these are amazing climbing records, you guys are just boiling down these world climbing records to speed records, change the thread name


unabonger


Feb 27, 2005, 6:52 PM
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C. Bentley once did Vitamen H at Rifle naked, with a watermelon tied to his ass, by car headlight.


drubt


Feb 27, 2005, 7:13 PM
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why the watermelon?


slavetogravity


Feb 27, 2005, 8:13 PM
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In 1998 Hamish Faser soloed the Squamish Butress, via Diedre in 34 minutes. That's 15 rope length pitches up to 5.10c with a long stretch of scrambling in between.


reach


Mar 1, 2005, 6:21 AM
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In reply to:
C. Bentley once did Vitamen H at Rifle naked, with a watermelon tied to his ass, by car headlight.

If that isn't a climbing record for the books I don't know what is.


abraxas


Mar 1, 2005, 6:43 AM
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In reply to:
C. Bentley once did Vitamen H at Rifle naked, with a watermelon tied to his ass, by car headlight.

So, if I understand you correctly then, the car headlight actually tied the watermelon to his ass?

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