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High stress climbing situations... What do you do?
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Partner hosh


Mar 1, 2005, 6:05 PM
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High stress climbing situations... What do you do?
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when the stress gets high, like you're desparately trying to sink that black alien, what do you do to deal with the stress?


dirtineye


Mar 1, 2005, 6:18 PM
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Sorry, that poll has no relevant choices regarding what I do in those situations.

what I try to do is concentrate on the details of climbing and the issue of staying on the rock as efficiently as possible.

This includes breathing, finding the best foot and hand holds, finding slight improvements in body position, finding good pro placements, finding the route out of the predicament, changing grips slightly to avoid pump out, assessing the fall consequences, and more.


chronicle


Mar 1, 2005, 6:27 PM
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There wasn't a choice for what I do.

First concentrate on breathing. Then just concentrate on the rock, and tell myself that I can do it. The encouragement I give myself really helps out. Although I haven't done anything close to my limits, I have been in situations where a fall would mean death.


dingus


Mar 1, 2005, 6:36 PM
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I go Biblical... weeping bitter tears of lamentation and tearing great rents from my lengthy beard. I curse my ancestors and doom my progeny to endless cycles of misery and slavery on the wheel of life. I wrestle with angels sent to rescue me and dash my head against the wall. I swear to every miserable god that ever was invented, and to some that have yet to be thunk, that I WILL NEVER, EVER!!!111 climb again if they should grant me a momentary reprieve. I wonder aloud why, OH GOD WHY do I do this to myself??? DON'T I EVER LEARN???

But I didn't see a radio button for all that and I'm not a voter on general principle.

And then I either climb out of there... or not.

Same as everyone else, right?

DMT


hiram


Mar 1, 2005, 6:42 PM
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i like to think just how easy this move/route would be if i was on TR not on lead.


tcantor333


Mar 1, 2005, 8:16 PM
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In reply to:
I go Biblical... weeping bitter tears of lamentation and tearing great rents from my lengthy beard. I curse my ancestors and doom my progeny to endless cycles of misery and slavery on the wheel of life. I wrestle with angels sent to rescue me and dash my head against the wall. I swear to every miserable god that ever was invented, and to some that have yet to be thunk, that I WILL NEVER, EVER!!!111 climb again if they should grant me a momentary reprieve. I wonder aloud why, OH GOD WHY do I do this to myself??? DON'T I EVER LEARN???

But I didn't see a radio button for all that and I'm not a voter on general principle.

And then I either climb out of there... or not.

Same as everyone else, right?

DMT


maculated


Mar 1, 2005, 8:21 PM
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My best sends to date are high stress ones. I'm the kind of person that lacks focus on detail until I have to get the job done. Then I fly.


subtle


Mar 1, 2005, 8:29 PM
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Pee on myself, generally.

Allez. Incontinence. Homard.


angelaa


Mar 1, 2005, 8:57 PM
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Nothing like a GREAT theme song!!! 8^)


usmc_2tothetop


Mar 1, 2005, 9:27 PM
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Brown girl in the rain!!!!!......shala lala lala. :wink:


glyrocks


Mar 1, 2005, 9:35 PM
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i like to think just how easy this move/route would be if i was on TR not on lead.

Huh, I try to think about how scary it would be if I were free-soling. I think if I thought about how easy it actually was, I might get lost in kicking myself for being a wuss. Thinking about how hard it would be to do solo reminds me that (generally speaking) being roped will keep me safer if I blow it. Then I can relax. Doesn't always work though. Sometimes I just cry.


akicebum


Mar 1, 2005, 9:50 PM
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3 part breathing. Forget about the ground and focus on the movement.... Or crap myself cry, make a deal with god the devil whoevever will listen, pull on gear, scream "take" and blame my partner for pulling me off with a terrible belay, probably cry some more, start singing whatever top ten song I have heard 10,000 times on the radio, which makes me cry even more. Then crap covered and soaked with tears I pull the lip on whatever 5.9 warm-up I just epiced on.


Partner hosh


Mar 1, 2005, 10:03 PM
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start singing whatever top ten song I have heard 10,000 times on the radio


Let me guess, magic 100.slit my wrist?


Ah, Juneau Radio... Gotta love it.

Hosh.



hey, you tried the new white line up the arete at the dump yet?


Partner phaedrus


Mar 1, 2005, 10:39 PM
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None of those choices apply to me.

My usual response: "Hm. Interesting. Okay, now what?"

Although I will admit that if the situation continues, it becomes something like "Fsck! I hate this stupid sport! That's it, when I get home, I'm selling all of my gear... I'm going to spend my weekends sitting on the couch and watching GOLF! Stupid rock. Stupid gear. Stupid sport."

And of course, at the end of the climb/situation: "Damn, that was sweet! I wish I had a camera... I can't wait to do this again!" :roll:


10ftdrp


Mar 1, 2005, 11:51 PM
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i just breathe tell myself to calm down, curse at myself
one usually works and if it doesn't i fall...


greenmachineman7


Mar 2, 2005, 12:35 AM
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i'll usually stuff cams like crazy and whimper at my belayer. nothing quite like having 3 pieces in as many feet to make me feel safe, and a huge wuss.


abalch


Mar 2, 2005, 12:35 AM
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I didn't vote on this, because I couldn't choose one answer. Climbing is complicated, and I honestly say that I have done almost every single one of those things on various climbs and on various days. Some days I just have a bad climbing day, or the demons of past bad falls come back to haunt me, and I back off like a wuss. Other days, I push through.


akicebum


Mar 2, 2005, 1:22 AM
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No Hosh I haven't. What kind of sloper nastieness did you concoct?


Partner hosh


Mar 2, 2005, 1:26 AM
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there's this weird backwards mantle about half way up, a deadpoint to a sloper at the top, you know, my usual hatred for the human race. I ended up calling it "slowdance" since there's a rest in the middle where you've got your face pushed up against the wall like it's you prom night date. it's a pretty stressful situation for me, it's a pretty hard climb...


giza


Mar 2, 2005, 2:01 AM
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I usually fill my drawers and curse lots


Partner gunksgoer


Mar 2, 2005, 2:21 AM
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...imagine yourself as a semi-sedentary senior citizen thinking back on:

How light you were to back off

or

how empowering and fun it was to send the bastard.

(Pick one.)

backing off might mean the difference between making it to senior citzen status and not. staying alive appeals to me, so i dont push myself if i dont think the conditions are right. its better to leave with your tail between your legs then it is to leave in a body bag.


fishbelly


Mar 2, 2005, 2:53 AM
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Throw up.gravity is great.


climb_high4life


Mar 2, 2005, 3:21 AM
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I just push through it. I tell myself I don't want to fall, I won't fall. I've only been leading for 1/2 year. It isn't that I don't trust the gear, I just don't want to take a run out tumbing whipper on chunky, sharp crystal-strewn, granite slabs.


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