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areuinclimber
Mar 9, 2005, 9:45 PM
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i would have to say.... the bunny slope on boreal ski resort in california is the gnarliest climb ive come across hands down.....
:cry:
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okieterry
Mar 9, 2005, 11:16 PM
Post #27 of 43
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In reply to: I have never been to this place but I heard Quartz Mountain (Oklahoma) is pretty hardcore. I think it is because hard men came in and did the place up, and now the FA's must remain the same, or no one is brave enough to re-bolt, which is fine...
Uhh, I don't think it is a matter of how brave you are, its all about something called ethics. It would be unethical to retrobolt these classic lines. Just like when we put these routes up....it was unethical to toprope them or place bolts using topropes. The bolts are just where you could stand and drill a hole and hammer in a bolt. Also, it sucked big time to place a bolt so you tended to climb as much as you could before you resorted to the drill.
I really wouldn't call Quartz Mtn hardcore. But it is a relative term and it depends what you are used too. Sure, there are some scary climbs at Quartz but the majority of the climbs aren't bad. Plus, I don't think we've had a fatality or even a real serious injury yet.
To me, something like the shield in the sandias or the painted wall in the black canyon of the gunnison is hard core. Here you combine climbing difficulty, bad rock, hard approaches, poor pro, bad or non-existent anchors, and bad weather.
Come to our gathering (the Spring Fling) which will be held the first weekend of April at Quartz. There's plenty of hard bouldering to be had as well. There's even a problem that no one has ever been able to do that is so tantalizing!!
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euthanasia
Mar 10, 2005, 12:09 AM
Post #28 of 43
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Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 127
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Whiteside Mtn., NC. Steep and runout to hell!!
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irockclimbtoo
Mar 10, 2005, 12:45 AM
Post #29 of 43
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ab
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iclimbtoo
Mar 10, 2005, 12:59 AM
Post #30 of 43
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Squamish I've heard is, and from it's famous climbing history, I'm sure it is
Skyhomish (Index), WA - hella sandbagged
Needles, SD (Talk about some high ball bouldering by John Gill!!)
Eldo in CO has some pretty tight sh!t too...like Calypso... r and x rated climbs definitely to scare the piss out of you!
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daggerx
Mar 10, 2005, 1:05 AM
Post #31 of 43
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Registered: Sep 16, 2001
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elephant rock in buena vista colorado near leadville co, were there are a couple hardman areas. All slab nothing but tiny tiny crimpers if you can find any thing at all. All 5.12d or harder some aid and no good placements if any.
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thegreytradster
Mar 10, 2005, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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Any place a day or more hike from the nearest other party and two days from the road.
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petsfed
Mar 10, 2005, 1:48 AM
Post #33 of 43
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Twclimber, so which are you railing against here? Wild Iris? Sinks? Or something more exotic, like Ten Sleep or Roger's Canyon?
Needles were pretty burly, but Vedauwoo... isn't. I mean unless you do with fshizzle's qualification of burly. Just felt like climbing to me.
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the-gnome
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Mar 10, 2005, 1:58 AM
Post #34 of 43
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Index, home of the hits!
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boss
Mar 10, 2005, 2:07 AM
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In reply to: There's a lot of HC climbing in NC, to be sure, but of all the places I've climbed, I have to put Seneca Rocks, WV at the top. Most routes aren't even run out, but that place has a scary vibe. Man does it have a vibe. Everything there is so exposed. And like somebody before me mentioned, the grades are trez old school.
I definitely agree here. The place does have a really weird vibe. Not even sure how to describe it. Maybe because the first time I was there the temperature dropped into the high thirties, it started raining, and a nice chunk of rock blew up next to me. The rock landed right before I got on a route, and the weather turned at the top of the first pitch. I just always seem to get the feeling that something is out in the woods when I'm there, or that something is behind me. Funny I never get this vibe at the New (except near those sketchy houses near Beauty). Overall, a hardcore place for sure with a bit of a ghost story twist to it at times.
-boss
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kcrag
Mar 10, 2005, 2:16 AM
Post #36 of 43
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Registered: May 27, 2002
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Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park, Colorado.
Can you say commitment?
Also, anything at your climbing limit above 14,000'. It's a whole other world up there.
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takeme
Mar 10, 2005, 2:57 AM
Post #37 of 43
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In reply to: Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park, Colorado. Can you say commitment?
I'll second that. There's a small handful of routes that aren't too bad and then there's the vast majority of routes, which are either sick-hard, or horror-shows replete with choss, impossible route-finding, long runouts, etc. I've done most of the easier trade routes and even those have provided me with more epics or near-epics than any other area I've visited. And now I'm at an impasse, unable to take the next step to the truly "Black Canyon-esque" routes.
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piton
Mar 10, 2005, 1:49 PM
Post #38 of 43
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cannon
millbrook
champ/ seneca rocks
whitesides
el cap half dome only gumby's climb at swan slab
black canyon
longs peak
needles cali & ND
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roambb1
Mar 10, 2005, 3:04 PM
Post #39 of 43
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I will echo Seneca Rocks. There are a plethora of routes rated in low 5's that draw beginners in, and spit them off. People get in trouble there. I've panicked on a 5.7, while fumbling for a nut placement, almost dropping them all. The screams from above, followed by two boulders that were dislodged from above and came down within feet from me, continuing downwards to explode on the rock below, where the shards then hit a hiker a few hundred feet lower, causing more screaming didn't help. The climbing is exposed for the grades, the rock is solid for pro, but loose and fractured in places. Everytime I have climbed there, I have witnessed at the minimum, parties freaking out, screaming at each other in frustration. It gets pretty crowded, and you are constantly hearing "Rock", followed by the crashes. As Jung stated, the place has a strange vibe, and if you are expecting easy cragging, you can get in trouble. The place is wonderful, one of my favorites in this region, but beginners beware, a Seneca 5.5 is probably not what you want to learn to lead on. The Conns (sp), who made many FAs at Seneca moved to the SD (needles area) afterwards. They were and are bold climbers.
I will also agree that Vedawoo is pretty stout. One of my early experiences was following on a 5.7 offwidth there. I was in serious pain and agony, flailing to get up that thing, finally heaving my body, walrus like over the top.
And I am still too scared to try Whitesides in NC.
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mesomorf
Mar 10, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2002
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Pre-Scott Ayers routes at Cochise Stronghold.
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holmeslovesguinness
Mar 10, 2005, 3:22 PM
Post #41 of 43
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In reply to: Needles were pretty burly, but Vedauwoo... isn't. I mean unless you do with fshizzle's qualification of burly. Just felt like climbing to me.
No fair Petsfed - I'm sure after years of climbing there it probably feels pretty easy, but try and put yourself in the shoes of a non-local :wink:
I agree though - it's not 'hard core' in the sense that there are a lot of really run-out death routes, or that there isn't any moderate climbing, or that everything is super sustained, etc. But my first few trips trying to thrutch up 'classic' offwidths with zero technique felt like the hardest climbing I had ever done.
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yekcir
Mar 10, 2005, 4:16 PM
Post #42 of 43
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Registered: Feb 21, 2005
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I feel the need to weigh in my opinion that Seneca is hardcore. I learned to lead there, learned the fear there, and almost everywhere I go, I feel that Seneca has taught me the skills and tricks I need to get up routes comfortably. On the road, I don't usually encounter serious situations like the ones I've seen or been part of at Seneca.
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petsfed
Mar 10, 2005, 4:27 PM
Post #43 of 43
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: Needles were pretty burly, but Vedauwoo... isn't. I mean unless you do with fshizzle's qualification of burly. Just felt like climbing to me. No fair Petsfed - I'm sure after years of climbing there it probably feels pretty easy, but try and put yourself in the shoes of a non-local :wink: I agree though - it's not 'hard core' in the sense that there are a lot of really run-out death routes, or that there isn't any moderate climbing, or that everything is super sustained, etc. But my first few trips trying to thrutch up 'classic' offwidths with zero technique felt like the hardest climbing I had ever done.
And I've found (almost against all odds) that fshizzle's right. If you're a truly well rounded climber, Vedauwoo isn't that hardcore, its just talked up a lot and has a disturbingly large number of offwidths. Offwidths ain't so bad once you've got the technique. I can't say much more than that since I've not been to Yosemite or other places of that caliber.
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