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highhatt
Jun 20, 2002, 5:11 PM
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Do people prefer oval, D, wire gate, bent gate, etc. for climbing Trad. Just curious to see the different opinions.
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elvislegs
Jun 20, 2002, 5:37 PM
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Whatever, each for it's own purpose. Wire gates are nice and lightweight. That influences my decision more than anything.
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cedk
Jun 20, 2002, 5:40 PM
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A mix of everything. Probably don't need that many bent gates for trad. I Really like wire gates since the rack weighs enough already and they clip easy. Gotta have 4 ovals on there somewhere for a carabiner brake.
Keylocks are nice because they don't snag coming off the jumbled rack.
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camsticker
Jun 20, 2002, 6:58 PM
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I prefer ovals...just because they are so versitile. But I think it really doesn't matter as long as you use beaners that are not wire gates...They are nice for sport routes, but i wouldnt use them on Trad routes.
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cedk
Jun 20, 2002, 7:34 PM
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Ivanm:
Please elaborate on why you believe wiregates are no good for trad.
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blindslap
Jun 20, 2002, 7:35 PM
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BD hotwires for everything! Light weight and strong. All i carry is those and four or five lockers of different types.
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camsticker
Jun 20, 2002, 7:46 PM
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I don't necessarily think wire gates are "bad" for Trad...just not as versitile as Ovals
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benfieldj
Jun 20, 2002, 7:48 PM
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I carry a mix of lockers, ovals, and D's, whatever was on sale at the time. I'm pretty old school so my preference is for ovals.
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punk
Jun 20, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Assortment works the best for me, general guide lines are consternate on weight and Keylock design and at least one HMS for Munter
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climber1
Jun 20, 2002, 7:53 PM
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ovals
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melonhead
Jun 20, 2002, 7:58 PM
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Ovals, baby...ovals.
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rock_climbin_06
Jun 20, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Bd wiregate biner are the best.
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bmgard
Jun 20, 2002, 8:23 PM
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I buy what ever i can get good deals on. I try to stike to wiregates and notchless though. I already have 25+ ovals so i don't need anymore of those.
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codey
Jun 20, 2002, 9:15 PM
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Ovals They r cheap and simple.
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sagarmatha
Jun 20, 2002, 11:23 PM
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Oval screwgates. If I was rich I'd buy Mammut, so I buy either BD or Kong.
Cheers
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stevematthys
Jun 21, 2002, 12:32 AM
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anything but keylock
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cygnus
Jun 21, 2002, 5:46 PM
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I read the other day that using wire gates on pro is a bad idea. Said they are more prone to gate flutter that solid gates (like ovals). If the gate fluttered open then the rope could bend the wire pretty easy on a fall. Can't remeber where I read that, I'm going to have to find that article again. I have wire gates but they are only on my quickdraws.
What do you guys think?
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cedk
Jun 21, 2002, 5:57 PM
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Cygnus: That doesn't sound right to me at all. Wiregates are less prone to gate flutter because of the lower mass of the gate. Some people are worry about crossloading wiregates. I don't think you're any more screwed when you cross load a wiregate than you are when you cross load a solid gate. In fact one school of thought is that wiregates are superior in those instances because wires bend but solids break.
Stevemathys: What's not to like about keylocks? If you've got any you want to get rid of you can send them to me.
I really don't care what you guys use as long as it keeps you off the deck but it sounds like if we ever climb together we'll have to use 'biners off of your racks.
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cygnus
Jun 21, 2002, 6:12 PM
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Interesting, thanks Cedk.
I can see were cold forged aluminum would be much more prone to break than a nice piece of steel wire just bending.
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dustinap
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Jun 22, 2002, 5:43 PM
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According to BD wiregates are less prone to gate flutter. Also, awhile ago there was a discussion on this site about wiregates being cross loaded, and I think the outcome was that it couldn't be any worse then a traditional gate.
BTW, the 2001 BD catalouge is where I read that wiregates are less prone to gate flutter.
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pattray
Jun 22, 2002, 10:24 PM
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BD wiregates for me, light and easy to clip in to.
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arlen
Jun 24, 2002, 6:15 AM
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Whatever you can afford a lot of is a good idea. But once I used a couple keylocks, I'm hooked.
My partner has a bunch of Kong Heliums that are light, compact and super-easy to clip. They're pricey, though. I found some Austrialpin Easy Magic biners in Vancouver that have a humongous gate opening, are quite light and have a variant of the keylock. Extra nice on the screwgate you clip into the anchor with.
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highhatt
Jun 30, 2002, 1:14 PM
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Hey, does anybody the difference between the BD hotwire and quickwire?
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crackaddict
Jun 30, 2002, 5:10 PM
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Ovals are the really good for aid. Because they are more versitile. But as far on a free rack it does'nt matter much. And as my favorite I don't show much favortisim.
I probably have 10 different types of biners on my rack. Bent gates on my cams, they come in handy doing splitters in Indian creek. Wires and just about everthing else on my runners and slings. I used to have just have ovals and D's. But I just had them cause I was poor and could'nt afford any fancy binner.
Now thats not a problem and I have upgraded to wires and bent gates. Plus there are so many deals on them. Why not!
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-06-30 10:14 ]
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tanner
Jun 30, 2002, 7:19 PM
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I love keyed bieners for racking nuts on. because with notched bieners a nut can get stuck in the notch and the next time you go to get a nut you might drop one. Thats why I like them, because I loose less stuff.
Then I use a half dozen keyed bent gates 2 ovals and 6-10 draws mosty clogs(cheap) and a few ausialpine keyed draws.
Limited experiance with wire gates.
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