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ctardi
Mar 13, 2005, 10:42 PM
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Well, went to coast mountain sports, for a helmat, and they had a sale: Buy two items, get %25 off both. So I decided to get a rope too. Ended up with a Beal Edlinger 2 10.2 mm. 60m, dry treated, black limit. Rated to 8 UIAA falls. Regular $180 CDN, got it for $130 CDN.
My question is, should I was it right away, or wait till it actually gets dirty?
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climb_high4life
Mar 13, 2005, 10:49 PM
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I myself don't know why you would wash it right away. I only have a non dry rope so if washing it right away has something to do with it being a rope with a dry coating I don't know. But otherwise, I would just wait till it gets dirty and then wash it. Its clean when you get it so why wash it? By the way, I love beal ropes. Mine is a 10.2mm Beal Flyer. Glad you got a good price. :D
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ctardi
Mar 13, 2005, 10:52 PM
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I just wasn't sure, I thought there may be residue from the factory still on it. I also bought a Black Diamond Half Dome for $60 CDN
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climb_high4life
Mar 13, 2005, 11:02 PM
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I would think the only residue would be newness, but really when I first got my rope it was slightly slippery, but after using it, it went away. I wouldn't worry over it.
I've seen some ropes before that could really use a washing, like you belay a short 40' climb and afterwords your hands look like you've been working on a car or handling charcol.
Overall, I wouldn't sweat it. I don't think they would give you the new rope that you needed to wash before using. If they did, not many people would buy them, so my guess is that they already washed it for you. Good luck.
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ctardi
Mar 14, 2005, 12:30 AM
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Sweet. Can't wait to climb on it.
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bc2planker
Mar 14, 2005, 12:33 AM
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I picked up a new 9.7 rope mid summer 2004... ive yet to clean it though!
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the_antoon
Mar 14, 2005, 1:51 AM
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I just ate ice cream for the first time in years...I am almost positive I can actually feel the cholestoral constricting my arteries... :shock:
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ctardi
Mar 14, 2005, 2:09 AM
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I'm waiting on some apple pie before i eat ice cream...
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jt512
Mar 14, 2005, 2:33 AM
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In reply to: My question is, should I was[h] it right away, or wait till it actually gets dirty?
Where in the world did you get the idea that you should wash a new rope?
-Jay
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ctardi
Mar 14, 2005, 3:03 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: My question is, should I was[h] it right away, or wait till it actually gets dirty? Where in the world did you get the idea that you should wash a new rope? -Jay
Like I said heard a rumor. Read it along time ago, wasn't sure if it was true or not, figured I should ask, just incase. Can never be too careful...
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hikerken
Mar 14, 2005, 6:38 AM
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from
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/members/andy.mccarron/cncc/cor.htm
New Ropes
There are two reasons why new ropes are best washed before use. Washing removes the anti-static lubricants used in manufacture and also shrinks the rope. This serves to compact the sheath and tighten it onto the core, stabilising the rope and perhaps improving it's wearing properties a little. Soak the rope in clean water, drain and squeeze out surplus water by pulling the rope through an anchored descender. Repeat process two or three times, each time pulling the rope through the descender in the same direction. Hang the rope up to dry for a few days. Later cut off any loose sheath that may have crept along the rope and melt the ends to prevent any unravelling. This procedure helps prevent sheath slippage during the initial few trips until sheath and core are properly bedded.
With some softer constructions, the manufacturers find it difficult to match the sheath and core tensions exactly, so especially when used for abseiling, the sheath slips a little in relation to the core. This is not much of a problem. For the first few trips just ensure that the rope is rigged with the same end at the top, so the excess sheath bunches at the bottom. When satisfied that no further slippage is taking place, cut off the surplus sheath and re-melt the end. This simple procedure has no affect on the general properties of the rope.
When first soaked all ropes, particularly nylon ropes, can be expected to shrink by various amounts up to 8 or 10%.
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jt512
Mar 14, 2005, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: from http://web.ukonline.co.uk/members/andy.mccarron/cncc/cor.htm New Ropes There are two reasons why new ropes are best washed before use. Washing removes the anti-static lubricants used in manufacture and also shrinks the rope. This serves to compact the sheath and tighten it onto the core, stabilising the rope and perhaps improving it's wearing properties a little. Soak the rope in clean water, drain and squeeze out surplus water by pulling the rope through an anchored descender. Repeat process two or three times, each time pulling the rope through the descender in the same direction. Hang the rope up to dry for a few days. Later cut off any loose sheath that may have crept along the rope and melt the ends to prevent any unravelling. This procedure helps prevent sheath slippage during the initial few trips until sheath and core are properly bedded. With some softer constructions, the manufacturers find it difficult to match the sheath and core tensions exactly, so especially when used for abseiling, the sheath slips a little in relation to the core. This is not much of a problem. For the first few trips just ensure that the rope is rigged with the same end at the top, so the excess sheath bunches at the bottom. When satisfied that no further slippage is taking place, cut off the surplus sheath and re-melt the end. This simple procedure has no affect on the general properties of the rope. When first soaked all ropes, particularly nylon ropes, can be expected to shrink by various amounts up to 8 or 10%.
When was this written? 1952?
Edit: Ah, it's from a caving website. Maybe cavers have some reason to pre-shrink their ropes. Climbers don't.
-Jay
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