me and my partner keep that s--- for bouldering and TRing....or after the climb.....but i totally know what you mean....3 beers and a late night bouldering session on my woodie is great....relaxing, control, focus....then a slamb my head into a massive roof jug... :roll: :shock: ...

You ever tried? I'll like to try again but outdoor on lead , this time I'll try to remember to clip :)

I am totally disturbed by your post. It's one thing to be a functioning smoker who can do stuff without much handicap, and they know so because they've been smoking a long time, but it's quite another to experiment to see what happens and then not feel so weird about the fact that (a) you didn't clip the bolts and (b) your belayer didn't raise holy hell when you did this.

"Loda Bohl" was an admitted user, and from what I gather about the article, a pretty elite climber. I may be showing ignorance by not knowing who he is, but the fact remains, and he said it, too - their safety was pretty high because they'd been climbing so long, they were naturally inclined to do what needed to be done to climb safely.

If you weren't making clips, you should NOT have been doing this.

So you are either full of s---, or you need to keep your belayer sober, at the very least.

::shudder::

About smoking and climbing.
I usually smoke after climbing ( when I can ) but after reading that article I felt curious about experimenting it. So I rolled a fat one and smoked it just before entering my gym on sat Afternoon.

Anybody tried hallucinogens? :lol:

Yes, actually, I have. Aid climbing, mostly.

In my climbing hay day, I routinely climbed stoned, in fact almost all of the time, to the point where it was odd to climb not stoned. I toked on my first big wall, prior to my first 5.11 lead, and every other place you could imagine.

The first time that I went to climb the classic Cathedral Ledge 5.9 "Diedre," my partner and I both backed off of the crux on the second pitch. We went back to the car, smoked a couple bowls, had a few brewskies, and I told him that I could get it now. We went back, I cruised the crux pitch, and we finished the five pitches in no time.

As I belayed him up the final 5.9 handcrack, I wondered why he wasn't chalking up. When he arrived on top I found out the answer when he produced a can of Heineken from his chalk bag. Yumadoodles!

Ahhhh
Thanks man, I feel at home again, for a moment I thought I was on the wrong site.
Enough with the delf-righteous and the bible thumping ( especially when they came together)
:lol:

You're overlooking the obvious differences. In edge's case, we have a young stoner, who was also a climber, enjoying these interests together. In your case, we have a middle-aged guy "experimenting" with pot, like a stupid teenager. That you would completely space the first two clips, says plenty.

Your trip report reminded me of the last thing a redneck says...