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j_ung
Dec 23, 2003, 10:13 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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When I climbed Turkeys last April, it looked like the route actually went all the way to the top of the wall, despite the insistence of my obviously outdated topo. However, it was cold. It was late. We bailed. Now I regret it, 'cause it looked easy; like we could have banged it out fast.
I just got the Red Rock Supertopo upgrade, but the extension is still not listed. Anybody know what the rest of the route is like?
j_ung
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boltdude
Dec 23, 2003, 11:18 PM
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We only document to pitch 11 on the Supertopo because when I was up there, we were replacing bolts on a bunch of routes, and at the top of that last 5.9 pitch (pitch 11), it goes to so low an angle that we thought that despite what the Urioste guide said, there might not be a fixed anchor higher up. Turns out that last pitch 12 (5.7) does have one protection bolt and a bolted anchor, just like the Urioste guide says. Pitch 12 gets you to the top of the sheer wall and "Turkeyland" ledge, then the Urioste book says "about 1000 feet of pleasant 3rd and 4th class climbing lead to the summit."
The pitch 12 bolts are probably all bad, I hope to replace them (and document the top-out) this spring.
Greg
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valygrl
Dec 23, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Hah, some day i'll tell you all about the "several hundred feet of 4th class" to the top of dark shadows..... the story involves a head lamp.
hahaha.
anna
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sonso45
Dec 24, 2003, 12:15 AM
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I did the last 1000' above turkey ledge and found it a bit of 5th with a lot of exposed 4th in between. The rap down the chimney on the backside, to the east of the top, was really long and hairy. Rap from the ledge and do it in a day. M
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j_ung
Dec 24, 2003, 2:53 PM
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In reply to: We only document to pitch 11 on the Supertopo because when I was up there, we were replacing bolts on a bunch of routes, and at the top of that last 5.9 pitch (pitch 11), it goes to so low an angle that we thought that despite what the Urioste guide said, there might not be a fixed anchor higher up. Turns out that last pitch 12 (5.7) does have one protection bolt and a bolted anchor, just like the Urioste guide says. Pitch 12 gets you to the top of the sheer wall and "Turkeyland" ledge, then the Urioste book says "about 1000 feet of pleasant 3rd and 4th class climbing lead to the summit." The pitch 12 bolts are probably all bad, I hope to replace them (and document the top-out) this spring. Greg
I probably clipped an ass-load of your bolts when I was out there. Thanks also for your work on Supertopo. Only one complaint: it's so detailed, that I feel guilty claiming onsights :) , but not really :twisted: .
j_ung
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jsj42
Dec 24, 2003, 3:07 PM
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What I'd like to know about would be the extension of Prince of Darkness. Is it more monotonous climbing (like the first six pitches) or does it get interesting up there?
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boltdude
Dec 25, 2003, 12:04 AM
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The extension to Prince of Darkness is the top of Dream of Wild Turkeys. One pitch up right and back left (4th class), a really nice 5.9 dihedral to crack pitch, another 5.9 face/thin crack pitch (OK), then that upper 5.7 pitch that I haven't done. Definitely a change of pace from the edge pulling on Prince of Darkness, but if you want variety, the various Gobbler/Turkeys/Yellow Brick Road combinations are a lot more varied than Prince.
And j_ung, sorry if it's too detailed, but it could get WAY more detailed (you should see some of the early notes from a few years ago when we were thinking of doing the by-each-pitch rack beta, etc - luckily we concluded that while that can be useful for aid climbs, it's excessive for free climbs). If you want totally over-the-top beta, there's an old move-by-move beta article for the crux sequences of Astroman in a late '80s Rock & Ice...stirred up quite a controversy even though it was a joke/comment on detailed topos. I think that article introduced "beta" to the climbing lingo as well, I should go try to find it on-line somewhere.
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runitout
Mar 16, 2005, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2003
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The rebolting job is outstanding and greatly appreciatated. We took Wild Turkeys to the summit of Black Velvet Peak on 3/12/05 car to car in just under 12 hrs. Unfortunatly in my haste I somehow missed your nice fat bolts(Kenn saw them) and stayed in the crack until I had to traverse back to a bushy ledge 50 ft above your anchors and just left of turkey ledge. We went up and left to the ridge so I don't have info on the last pitch. The last 1000 ft. is a really fun "exposed as you wanna be" ridge past a few false summits to the peak and follow the cairns home
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vegastradguy
Mar 16, 2005, 3:49 AM
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The last pitch is...sort of like the first one- pretty mild and not all that memorable. However, since you've just finished 11 pitches of pretty sustained climbing, its a welcome break.
The upper 1000' are 4th class with the occassional 5th class move. However, from the summit it's a walk off. If you rappelled, you went the wrong way.
Thanks for the rebolt, Greg, its definitely appreciated. Although, if you get a chance, the last two bolts need some attention along with one or two bolts on the pitch.
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