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fearful_leader
Mar 17, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Looking to climb Epi next week, without an epic. I don't have much experience on chimneys though... Any suggestions on similar, less runout or TRable routes in the area that I could practice on?
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mother_sheep
Mar 17, 2005, 4:47 PM
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YIKES! If you don't have much experience then you may not want to do Epi!
I know, I know, that's not the kind of response you were looking for. That route is really, really long.
I'll shut up now. :lol:
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cfnubbler
Mar 17, 2005, 5:06 PM
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While I agree that heading up Epi without much experience is a bad idea, I wouldn't call the chimney pitches run out! Sustained, yes, but quite reasonably protected. The one that I sometimes hear called run out (the last) has a couple of bolts on it, and a bomber wire placement or two that ease the sting considerably just when you need it. Still, if you plan on hanging on them, you're in for a bad time...
I don't know RR well enough to offer suggestions for single pitch or TR-able training chimneys.
-Nubbler
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shorty
Mar 17, 2005, 5:27 PM
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Not that I have a ton of experience at RR, but I do remember the second pitch of Beulah's Book having a chimney section -- although it's quite short.
I've heard more than one person say that you could "practice" Epi's chimneys later in the day when the potential congo line is higher on the route. The tactic would be to climb only the chimneys to the top of the black tower, then rap the route late in the day when (hopefully) nobody is behind you. If memory serves me correctly, two ropes are required for the raps.
Assuming the practice day goes OK, then you can go for the early start another day to complete the whole route.
Hopefully one of the Vegas locals can give you more insight.
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telluryan
Mar 17, 2005, 5:44 PM
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this is a very serious route. The associated TR from yesterday should be taken w/ a grain of salt. The author is an experienced climber and had been training for the route. Although the rating is moderate, a lot of climbing is involved and efficiency is key. Be careful
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fearful_leader
Mar 17, 2005, 7:11 PM
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Thanks for the posts, the TR was great. I'm fairly experienced with runouts, and efficient climbing... just not chimney techniques, having climbed mostly in the Northeast. Maybe i'll try Belulah's Book. Suggestions of other well protected chimneys in the area? Anybody? Or is it an oxymoron?
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pk
Mar 17, 2005, 7:17 PM
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Send a pm to vegastradguy about more chimney routes. He knows most of the climbs in the area here.
He is also the Red Rocks local database manager for those of us in vegas.
P.K.
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iamthewallress
Mar 17, 2005, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: Looking to climb Epi next week, without an epic. I don't have much experience on chimneys though... Any suggestions on similar, less runout or TRable routes in the area that I could practice on?
Although I was starting from Gumby Ground Zero, I've been working for a couple of years at shoring up my wide technique for long chimney-intensive routes where taking tension when the going gets rough isn't an option... like Epi and some others.
I know that there are people who manage to just jump on these things and do fine.
Such people should be tarred and feathered. :wink:
Seriously, good luck if you're one of those people...and I guess even better luck to you if you're not!
(I don't have any red-rock's wide suggestions for you...I'm learning at a distance for this one.)
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tenesmus
Mar 17, 2005, 7:56 PM
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Go do Iron Messiah in Zion. It'll get you ready for Epinephrine. Real ready.
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crotch
Mar 17, 2005, 8:10 PM
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There's a chimney just to the left of Atman (Calico Basin) that can be toproped, but is unprotectable. It's pretty slick, so you can't really cheat your way up it by using holds.
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vegastradguy
Mar 17, 2005, 9:33 PM
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The bolts on the last chimney pitch have been replaced. They are, however, red in color, so a bit tough to spot...especially the top one.
Telluryan also has a point about my TR- it may have seemed like a moderate day for us, but I was dead tired for the next two days- it's a strenuous, serious route and should be approached as such. Please note the Almost in the title....
I pm'd fearful_leader the climbs i'd recommend for practice, and i'll also post them here for those interested. I also thought of a couple more while I was sitting here. The first three are probably the best choices for 'practice' for Epi, the rest of them are better considered "Intro to wide stuff at Red Rocks!"
Zoroaster, 5.8 (TR Only) at the Yin and Yang Crag in Calico (next to Atman) is probably the best one to use.
Big Chimney, 5.9X at Kraft Boulders- a 40' highball, but almost exactly like the Epi Chimneys. Personally, the downclimb is scarier than the chimney!
Beulah's Book, 5.9 at Solar Slab area. This neat little route is very reminiscent of the crux of Epi, but mercifully much shorter.
Healy's Haunted House, 5.7- the second (crux) pitch is really spicy chimney work....good for the soul, that one.
Tunnelvision/Stilgar's Wild Ride, 5.7/5.8 These are just easy wide ones that, while perhaps not good training for Epinephrine, are a good first step to learning how to climb the wide stuff.
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