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hassan
Jun 27, 2002, 3:46 PM
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I have recently started leading. Have done a total of three leads: twice a 5.8+ and once a 5.10a during the last month. I have zero multi-pitch climb experience and I am planning to do snake dike on the coming 4th of July.
I have done the half-dome hike before and wanted to try a different route this time. This one looks within my abilities.
Any suggestions/ideas I need to know before I take my first multi-pitch climb that goes 800ft on top of Half-Dome ?
E.g Typically how long it takes to get back to the parking lot or back to the trail-head of the 17mile half-dome hike ?
thanks for any comments.
Hassan
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killclimbz
Jun 27, 2002, 3:57 PM
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Snake Dike is not hard, but it also doesn't have much in the way of gear. You should probably hook up with someone that has done it before or is more experienced. I wouldn't be suprised if you have no problems with it, but getting stuck on a long multi-pitch without much experience could turn into a bad thing really quick.
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radistrad
Jun 27, 2002, 4:02 PM
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Not to be harsh, but Your gonna kill your self up on Snake Dike.
Reading about your experience you are absolutley crazy to think that you will be able to climb a 800' 5.7 r/x in Yosemite Valley! Have you ever placed pro?
I've spent 25= days in Yosemite this year, I can lead in to the 5.10's and I am not up for Snake Dike, yet! The prospect of a (1) bolt or two per pitch scares the crap out of me!
I hope that you are going with an experienced leader!
Have you ever climbed in the Valley?
Why not start on After 6 on Manuer Pile, or go up to Tuolumne Meadows and learn to climb some slabs (try the bunny slopes and see what a 60+' run out on 5.2 feels like) and learn how to swap leads, set up a belay and how to safely climb multipitch.
Yes the crux is short on this route,but after that long walk, and the 2000' of endless 3rd class to reach the summit and then the return hike, do you not think you are biting off more than you can chew?
Like I said I dont want to be harsh or slam you that is not my intention. Play the game in a safely I dont want to see any more helicopters in the Valley this year!
Build your self a solid base and learn the ropes, the climb is not going any where!
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hollyclimber
Jun 27, 2002, 4:29 PM
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I don't know...kind of looks like a troll to me. (Sorry Hassan if you are serious).
I remember when I did Snake Dike. I had only been leading on gear for 4 months, but I had experience leading in sport for three years and had done many multi pitch climbs, both sport and trad. My two partners had been leading on gear for longer, but going out and doing a long route in Yosemite was a big deal to us.
We got a lot of beta at the store in the Valley and read tons of trip reports on the internet before we went. We picked out long climbs, slab climbs and no-pro climbs in our area to "practice". We ended up doing just fine. But, even on an "easy" route like Snake Dike, as newer trad climbers we almost started up the wrong route and generally felt challenged.
Anyway, that's enough because I don't know if this question is serious...
Holly
[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-06-27 09:31 ]
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howitzer
Jun 27, 2002, 4:58 PM
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I have to agree with what's been said, and I too hope you aren't serious - don't do a multi-pitch lead if you have never even climbed multi-pitch before! It's a quick trip to the bottom when you mess up your anchor or didn't bring everything you thought you would need - you are much better off doing some seconding with an experienced climber before you try multi-pitch without experience, especially in the valley. Be careful! Getting in over your head can be dangerous in this sport - just look at the accidents forum. Climb safe...
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dsafanda
Jun 27, 2002, 5:13 PM
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If you decide to give it a go...the best advice is to get to the base of the climb early. I mean really early! Start hiking while it's still dark. Some good beta and a free topo can be found here...
http://www.supertopo.com/freetopos.html
SnakeDike is a lot easier than some other Yosemite 5.7's but it is still an ordeal. Why not try some single pitch or 2 and 3 pitch stuff in the Valley before heading to SnakeDike.
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hassan
Jun 27, 2002, 6:14 PM
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Thanks guys. You have put me on the back foot already. Your concerns looks genuine and appreciable but real discouraging.
But please let me have some real beta as well before I finally decide to back off. I have the following gears. If they are scanty please let me know.
1 - 60m dynamic rope (10.5 inch)
2 - 2 belay devices (ATC & figure
3 - 4 locking biner, 6 nonlocking
4 - 7 quick draws
and of course harness, shoes etc. The above list looks funny now that I have written it.
I know I am not experienced but may be you have been there where I am right now. The URGE is toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo muuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuch. I will be careful. But give me advice on what to look for in general if one is to climb that 'easy' route.
thanks again,
Hassan
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climberdee
Jun 27, 2002, 6:25 PM
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Hassan...
As with the others (and I mean this in the BEST possible way), I HOPE you are not serious about doing this route unless your partner has way more experience. At any rate, the list of gear you provided is not nearly enough. For starters, (straight from the Yosemite Free Climbs guide book)
Snake Dike 5.7***R (emphasis on "R" which means runout)
Pro: A few small to medium nuts for the belays at the start and finish.
Do you know how to set belays using pro? If not, then you are putting yourself, your partner, and those who might have to rescue you at risk. Please think carefully about this adventure.
In addition to the pro mentioned above, you will need several sewn runners and possible a small daisy chain to anchor yourself at the belays.
Safety and fun to you.
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dsafanda
Jun 27, 2002, 6:27 PM
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Ok...as long as you're using your head and really thinking it through...here's my words of encouragement. On my first ever multi-pitch route I lead every pitch and was actually the more experienced partner(not saying much at the time). Sometimes you just have to dive head first in to the deep end. To this day that is one of my most memorable climbs. It gave me confidence to move to the next level.
In terms of specific beta like gear sizes, approach and descent info., it's all in SuperTopo guide I directed you to above.
Still not sure this plan is a good idea though. Why don't you check out After Six?
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yomaaft6
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-06-27 11:46 ]
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atg200
Jun 27, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Back off, man. This is an epic in the making. If nothing else, the clusterf*cks your belays will probably end up being will slow down the other parties on the route. Routes like Snake Dike are a place to use your multipitch experience, not to learn it.
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froggy
Jun 27, 2002, 6:46 PM
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I agree with the consensus... DON'T ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE YET!
Like someone else said... It will be there for a long long time...
Live to climb another day, o.k.? Also, I am new to leading still, but have followed on numerous amounts of climbs and lead a fair share.. And I am still contemplating if I am ready for that challenge...
Get yourself a mentor that will help you practice 'multi-pitch' stuff before you go!
[ This Message was edited by: froggy on 2002-06-27 11:49 ]
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killclimbz
Jun 27, 2002, 7:05 PM
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Hassan,
About backing off. You need to remember that this is a seriously run out route with little or no gear what-so-ever. You could very easily find yourself 40 plus feet out and wanting to bail. Your choices at that point are keep climbing, downclimbing, or taking a 80 ft or longer whipper.
If you don't have a partner to go with you that is more experienced may I suggest posting a note at the Camp 4 board. It is veryy easy to pick up a partner there. You can probably find someone who wants to do Snake Dike, who may of done it before or at least is an experienced trad climber. Heck maybe even someone on this board would be willing to climb it with you.
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radistrad
Jun 27, 2002, 7:14 PM
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You'll need some nuts, shoulder length slings , cordalett or similar (2) and a second rope to bail with and a head lamp and extra batteries (you may be stuck 1/2 way in the dark).
Since you have No Pro (nuts/cams), you are already defeated in protecting the 5.7 moves on the first pitch. Do you have the necessary skills to even find the climb in the first place? Yosemite is dangerous, its easy to get off of route or not even be able to figure out the route in the first place.
Go to Tuolumne Meadows, get on the Bunny Slopes. There is a 5.6, 5.7 and a 5.8 (that requires two cams). The 5.6 and 5.7 are bolted routes, they have 4 to 5 bolts for a 150' pitch, you have plenty of QD's for these routes. The last bolt is at least 60' from the belay on some 5.2 rock.
Like I said earlier, learn first because Snake Dike is not going any where and I do think you want to top out, right?
We all have a learning curve, heck I wanted to climb El Cap last week, but since I am still learning I know that I can not efficently climb it, nor do I possess the necessary aid skills.
Read this http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/stayalive.pdf
Also post this question on Supertopos, see what those guys say....
Be wise!
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climber1
Jun 27, 2002, 7:41 PM
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hey guys as Holly said, I think this is a troll.
he says he has hike Half Dome before, but yet he asks how long is the hike back to the trailhead. hmmm?
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crackaddict
Jun 27, 2002, 7:47 PM
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Whats funny is that a lot of people never even find it on thier first try. The turn off trail after Nevada falls an through lost lake can be tricky.
I agree with what eveyone else is saying on here. With the amount of experience you are saying you have, you are not ready for multi pitch. Sounds like you need some leads on single pitch and some shorter multi pitch for a while.
I have done Snake Dike 2x's. Once on lead and once I soloed it. Let me tell you its not a mammas boy route. You gota have a good head about it. And you need good route finding skills. There is a lot of stone up there and few bolts so don't get lost or off route. Sure it is only 5.7 and easier but will test you skills to thier fullest.
Get someone to take you up it first if you need to do it.
Plan on a 12-13 hours of hiking/climbing as well...
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hassan
Jun 28, 2002, 5:37 AM
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Two of attempts to post here were lost...I think I must copy what I wrote before I press the submit button...back button doesn't remember your writing...
Anyways...
climber1 sorry if my question confused you...I meant to ask the round trip cost in terms of hours spent. Not the time to get back from top of halfdome. I remember the last time we hiked half-dome it tooks us around 12 hrs. This time some friends will be doing the hike and I wanted to make sure me and my climber partner meet them at the top !
I have never placed protection in real life situation but definitely cleaned them following Peter Croft a whole day in J-Tree. He made me do several routes ranging from 5.7 face/crack to 5.10d (crack/face).
I have also taken a lesson on anchoring and potection placing from Steve Gerberding (hope i spelled it correct). Though I didn't have chance to practice it on my own but I sure remember lots of consideration and will make sure I put them to use before I hit half dome.
Guys purpose of using these big names is not to impress anyone but to explain that I am not starting from absolute zero !
In fact, I am going to follow your advice and try After Six this coming weekend before I go and face Snake Dike the next one. A bundle of thanks to everyone for pulling my feet back on the ground. I will prepare myself accordingly. And I will be careful.
Thanks again,
Hassan
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captainspock
Jun 11, 2007, 5:13 PM
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Okay... please feel free to be harsh on me too. but i've been thinking the same thing that dude has thinking.
i've followed a two pitch climb, but i have't lead one, i can climb 5.7s all day long, but have only trad lead twice, and i'll go w/ 5 trad leads total by the time i get there.
Gear....
set of nuts (and a pair of my own)
4 camalots (1.0 , 0.75 , 0.5 , 0.3)
plenty of quick draws,
60meter rope
alpine equilzer
beaners, grigri, blaa, blaa, blaa
i'm a top rope, and sport climber, and am thinking... what could go wrong (haha, i say that seriously thou). Snake dike is a 'sport route' isn't it, and if i don't like how far i've gone on a 5.3/5.4 i place a nute or cam right????? when i get to the 5.7 crux, which there is a bolt... i may fall a few times, but if the bolt stays, i'll be fine, and eat a power bar.
again, please anyone that has done this... slap me around, but i'm thinking i'm going to give it a try... irronically this 4th of july weekend.
thanks guys!!!!
and climb on!
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captainspock
Jun 11, 2007, 5:41 PM
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I also, humbly ask... please, if you would like to lead this climb for us, on our gear (new), or on your own, we'd love to discuss it.
please!
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fearofheights
Jun 11, 2007, 6:32 PM
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Ok, assuming you're not a troll...
No, you cannot place a cam or a nut when you get sketched. THERE IS NO PRO. It's slab. Be prepared to climb 60 feet ON SLAB with NO PRO.
I sent you a pm too re: the crux and other info.
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captainspock
Jun 11, 2007, 6:55 PM
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No trolls brotha
but, i figured i'd share ur response, its a good one for other non trolls that have valid questions! i'm not alone here, i have a buddy whos got the same exp.
thats for this responce:
As for the crux, there are really 2. The first is very polished slab (no handholds) for 40 feet before you get to the roof where you can place a cam. If you fall before the roof, it will be a groundfall, period. If you don't know what Yosemite 5.7 slab feels like, this is not the time to find out.
The second crux is the 3rd pitch, a traverse on 5.7 slab. No, there is not a bolt "right there". You won't deck, but you'll go for a long ride.
If you can't picture a 60 foot run-out, imagine your gym wall and add 10-20 feet. Now imagine doing that on lead, with very little in the way of natural features and no pro, several hundred feet above the deck, you've just hiked 6 miles steep uphill, and your calves are burning. Now imagine doing that 8 times in a row, then walking another 800 feet on featureless slab unroped.
Like the other posts said, don't do it.
Again... anyone want to lead the first week of July (2007) ???
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boku
Jun 11, 2007, 7:10 PM
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captainspock wrote: Okay... please feel free to be harsh on me too. but i've been thinking the same thing that dude has thinking... Snake dike is a 'sport route' isn't it...
Not. Way, way, not. Bolts do not a sport route make.
Bob "BoKu" K.
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