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dyomad
Mar 31, 2005, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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I'm heading to Squamish in about a month and a half for the first time and I'm looking for some quality, long, freeable or mostly freeable routes in the .9 to .10 range. Looking to get faster for Yosemite next year and would like to get a lot of mileage. Any route suggestions, rack info, approach/descent beta would be great. Thanks!
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rockhound71
Mar 31, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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There are a lot of great routes on the Apron (look in the route database). I would also recommend Rock On in the South Gully, and I've heard a lot about Angel's Crest in the North Gully. I haven't climbed AC yet, but will this year.
Casey
________________________
A coward turns away, but a brave man's choice is danger.--Euripides
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gneiss
Mar 31, 2005, 8:47 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
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Haven't done much up there but would definately recomend St. Vitus direct and Rock On. You can put Memorial Crack on the end of St Vitus and get another pitch in.
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mattm
Mar 31, 2005, 9:09 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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Angels Crest
Rock On to Ultimate Everything
St Vitus to Squamish Buttress
Borderline linking to Angel Crest
Peasants Route
Sunblessed on the back side
Snake
1 Scoop with Delicious Dimples
Banana Peel
Centerfold and another good 10 on the Papoose
Birds of Prey and another 10 on Squaw
North North Buttress?
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farrgo
Mar 31, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
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Smoke Bluffs connection has awesome pitches on it, although not a true multi-pitch. Pound for pound, I like Diedre-Ultimate everything link-up. The climbing is moderate and relaxed. Also, you can snagged some extra pitches on the upper apron and do something up on the Raven's castle if you like.
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lithophiliac
Mar 31, 2005, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2005
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Might I add Apron Strings, Cruel Shoes to the top of the Split Pillar (ok the sword of dem. is 11a but, so so good!!), Exasporator (only 2 or 1 long pitch but do it if you haven't) and Local Boys Do Good. I second the votes for previously mentoned routes!!
Happy climbing!!
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dyomad
Apr 1, 2005, 1:19 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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Thanks for all the great route suggestions! My rack is giddy with excitement! Wait that's not my rack! That's my... Umm, gotta go!
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yetanotherdave
Apr 1, 2005, 1:46 AM
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Just adding another reccomendation for the grandwall. The two pitches of .11a take great gear, so a bit of 'french free' makes them totally doable even if you're not leading .11a
That said, the sword and the undercling after it were my first and second .11 leads, they're pretty accessible even if you're not a comfortable .11 leader.
You'll want to grab one of the newer guidebooks, btw. There's lots of beta on which pitches can be run together to be more efficient, and on cool old stuff that's been re-cleaned.
btw, Scrubber is responsible for a lot of the cleanup of old routes. THANK YOU!!!
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giza
Apr 1, 2005, 1:55 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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All of the above!!!! I'm getting giddy just reading the replies.
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slavetogravity
Apr 1, 2005, 2:35 AM
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In reply to: Centerfold and another good 10 on the Papoose Birds of Prey and another 10 on Squaw North North Buttress?
Centerfold to Pinup. The best 3 pitch route in all of Squamish. A rival to Sunblessed in Quality.
Also, HairPin is a recently recleaned route on the Papoose and is a must do. The Papoose is my favourite wall to climb.
The "another 10 on the Squaw" is Jungle war fare, not as good as Birds of Prey but worth doing.
I wouldn’t recommend the North North Buttress to my worst enemy. Maybe if a friend of mine came to me and said "Aaron, I've been a real asshole and feel I must be sent to suffer and be punished for my sins." Then, and only then, would I recommend the North North Buttress.
That is all.
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yetanotherdave
Apr 1, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2005
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drifting a bit OT, but how fast do most routes on the squaw dry?
I've been climbing in and around squamish for ages, but I still haven't gotten around to climbing anything on the squaw...
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travisty
Apr 1, 2005, 4:35 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2003
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Unless you're in a drought, the start of Jungle Warfare will be a lilttle wet, and it's the crux. But climb it anyway; fun.
Birds of Prey gets muddy in the crux pitch after rain as well, bit I don't have first hand knowledge of that.
That's all I got,
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slavetogravity
Apr 1, 2005, 6:42 PM
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In reply to: drifting a bit OT, but how fast do most routes on the squaw dry? .
The 5.10b curx on Birds of Prey can dry quickly. The 5.10a pitch above that can be very slow to dry and is notoriously wet. As a rule of thumb, I'd say if Snake on the Apron is dry, Birds of Prey is dry.
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kman
Apr 1, 2005, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
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Birds of Prey is good.
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travisty
Apr 2, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2003
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Blazing Saddles has the best 5.10b pitch anywhere, IMO.
I enjoyed Centerfold a lot too but you can't beat the exposure on the Sherrif's Badge.
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slavetogravity
Apr 2, 2005, 12:25 AM
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In reply to: Blazing Saddles has the best 5.10b pitch anywhere, IMO. I enjoyed Centerfold a lot too but you can't beat the exposure on the Sherrif's Badge.
That's a mighty bold statement there partner. Considering the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall is rated 5.10b. I'll agree that Blazing Saddles is a good route but the lower pitches are crap. Centerfold to Pinup is still a better route in my books. Exposed, great belays, 3 quality pitches.
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