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euroford
Apr 14, 2005, 7:13 PM
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i currently have a 70m rope, and i like it allot, but i'm starting to question the value of the extra 10m & 1.5lbs of rope.
what are ya'lls general feelings on uber long ropes?
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couchwarrior
Apr 14, 2005, 7:30 PM
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Great for big alpine faces. Otherwise, fairly pointless.
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overlord
Apr 14, 2005, 7:34 PM
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well, ots wothless if all you climb can be climbed with a 60m rope :wink:
but sometimes its nice to have that extra length.
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outsi
Apr 14, 2005, 7:34 PM
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I wish i had a 70m rope the last time i was at Owens.
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abisharat
Apr 14, 2005, 7:37 PM
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They're good, but not necessary for sport routes. Some sport routes, like in the fortress of solitude, require them. However, on 60 meter sport routes, the belayer runs the risk of dropping their partner...but most sport routes aren't as long.
It really depends where you live. The black canyon is a great place to have double 70 meter ropes...you'll need them to avoid simul climbing to ledges, like on the flakes, and having doubles means you can bail off anything.
it's funny...if you climb with a 50 meter rope, you're "unsafe" in some people's eyes... I'll bet the same will be said of 60 meter ropes soon...
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euroford
Apr 14, 2005, 8:02 PM
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i should add: the focus of my climbing is strickly trad and alpine rock at the following areas; eldo, lumpy, RMNP, devils lake (wi) and witchitas (ok).
i plan to use diffrent ropes for ice and aid; thus far i'm convinced that i wouldn't want a 70m for ice and probobly would for aid.
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rocnoggin
Apr 14, 2005, 8:04 PM
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you just need to go to Europe to climb! LOL
I am leaving next week for a climbing trip to France, Italy and Switzerland and from what I have been reading I really wish we had a 70m single, since we dont we are taking 50m half-ropes and my girlfriend hates using those...should be a great time...
I read that in some places there are routes that you need two 90m ropes to rap!
todays lightweight 60's are the same weight overall as old 50's from the past. as technology keeps making materials lighter the ropes will likely get longer, but weigh the same overall. 70's will get more popular, then 90's, then...
cheers, all...and have fun climbing! :-)
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berkly
Apr 14, 2005, 8:11 PM
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In reply to: i should add: the focus of my climbing is strickly trad and alpine rock at the following areas; eldo, lumpy, RMNP, devils lake (wi) and witchitas (ok). i plan to use diffrent ropes for ice and aid; thus far i'm convinced that i wouldn't want a 70m for ice and probobly would for aid.
Theres quite a few climbs at quartz mt that would be nice to rap with one 70m instead of two 60s, but out in the refuge I cant think of any. Mostly single pitch stuff under 30m to rap off.
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mattm
Apr 14, 2005, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: i currently have a 70m rope, and i like it allot, but i'm starting to question the value of the extra 10m & 1.5lbs of rope. what are ya'lls general feelings on uber long ropes?
I think it's very dependent on the area you climb. (Speaking Rock Specific)
Gunks and lots of older routes like Becky put up all have short pitches (100 - 120 ft) so a 60m or 70m is a HUGE hassle as you pull up a lot of extra rope all the time.
60m is my standard since it covers all things fairly well. Double 60m, although a pain to pull up, let you rap shorter routes VERY fast - like one rap off of High E in the gunks.
70m is my fav for areas that for wahtever reason, have very short pitches that let you slingshot with one 70m (sport climbs etc) or rap on one 70m - In particular - Index, WA seems to have a lot of routes that beg for a 70m to be used. You can rap Davis-Holland, Loving Arms (6 pitches) on one 70m Ropes. Sweet
Bottom line, 50m, 60m, and 70m are all in my arsenal depending on the area I'm going to
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angelaa
Apr 14, 2005, 9:04 PM
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70m . . . all I can think about is the extra rope drag . . . :shock:
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jt512
Apr 14, 2005, 9:07 PM
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In reply to: i currently have a 70m rope, and i like it allot, but i'm starting to question the value of the extra 10m & 1.5lbs of rope. what are ya'lls general feelings on uber long ropes?
They're good for uber long pitches. Was this a trick question?
-Jay
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pbjosh
Apr 14, 2005, 9:15 PM
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In reply to: They're good, but not necessary for sport routes. Some sport routes, like in the fortress of solitude, require them. However, on 60 meter sport routes, the belayer runs the risk of dropping their partner...but most sport routes aren't as long.
A 60m route would require 2 rappels to descend w/ a 60m rope, or a 120 m rope to lower.
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seagypsy
Apr 14, 2005, 9:26 PM
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This question is akin to; "How long is a piece of string?" There are routes and areas where a 70m is a must..other places where it would be silly. Depends where and what you are climbing. I have a 70m and a couple shorter ropes. I only bust out the 70m if I absolutely need it as the extra weight and rope management would be a hassle if I could get by with a shorter rope. :)
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sarcat
Apr 14, 2005, 9:43 PM
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My 9.8mm ice rope is a 70m. Comes in handy. I've used it "folded over" for short routes where we wanted doubles.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 14, 2005, 9:45 PM
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INMOP 70's are specialty equiptment and not worth the hassel and weight for the few times you would need them. If you can afford them then fine for specific climbs. I usualy climb on doubbles and can't imagine what a hassel all that rope would be in most situations. When cragging i use a single 60 and that is uaualy fine. this year I broke the doubble 50's out quite a few times to save weight when going back country. You must have a MONSTER rack if you are going to use 70's for aid. most of the aid pitches that I have done were set up for 50's or shorter.
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markc
Apr 14, 2005, 9:56 PM
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In reply to: 70m . . . all I can think about is the extra rope drag . . . :shock:
Really? Right after considering rope drag, I thought of the extra gear I'd want to carry to link pitches, the extra slings and biners I'm going to need for said pro, how tired I'm going to be from lugging all that stuff, and how glad I'll be when I can turn over the lead! I'm getting winded thinking about it.
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euroford
Apr 15, 2005, 7:55 PM
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thanks for the help everybody. i think i'm set on hacking that 10m off the end of it.
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jorgle
Apr 15, 2005, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: thanks for the help everybody. i think i'm set on hacking that 10m off the end of it.
I think that it would be dumb to cut off the extra 10 meters. The extra rope with give you more options when climbing. 1.5 lbs isn't that much extra weight, plus you only feel it when pulling up rope after the climb is over.
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davidji
Apr 15, 2005, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: thanks for the help everybody. i think i'm set on hacking that 10m off the end of it. |
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climbinginchico
Apr 15, 2005, 8:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: However, on 60 meter sport routes, the belayer runs the risk of dropping their partner...but most sport routes aren't as long.. Explain this to me. What does the length of the rope have to do with dropping your partner? Cheers, Rob.calm
Well, on a long route, say one that is about 30 meters or more high, with a 60m rope the belayer runs the risk of dropping the climber on the lower because the end of the rope would run through the belay device.
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tripperjm
Apr 15, 2005, 8:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i currently have a 70m rope, and i like it allot, but i'm starting to question the value of the extra 10m & 1.5lbs of rope. what are ya'lls general feelings on uber long ropes? They're good for uber long pitches. Was this a trick question? -Jay
I'm surprised Jay or anyone else didn't mention.... as your ends become worn thin you can cut them off a couple of times and still have a 60m long rope. If you a sportjockey, the ends wear out faster due to falls while working routes.
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Apr 15, 2005, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: My 9.8mm ice rope is a 70m. Comes in handy. I've used it "folded over" for short routes where we wanted doubles.
I'm surprised that the Impact Force Police hasn't chimed in and told you that what you are doing is dangerous.
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skymeat
Apr 15, 2005, 8:53 PM
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I like the xtra 10 meters, because I use the rope for belay stations, tie-ins, alot of stuff.
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