|
e_wire
Mar 9, 2005, 12:34 PM
Post #26 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 263
|
In reply to: Heel sorta looks like the MadRock design. 5.10's way of getting back at MadRock for ripping off Anasazi's looks? :lol:
The picture is misleading. The heel is very different then the Mad Rock in real life...
I also agree with the previous post. The fit is much different in feel then the old Anasazi. Also, the sole si very stiff on lateral torsion, making edging quite easy. More of an outdoor shoe then a gym shoe in my opinion. Overall - a great climbing shoe. The new rubber is quite impresive too!
e_wire
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Mar 9, 2005, 1:58 PM
Post #27 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Word on the street is that Onyx is 20% stickier and 300% more durable than C4. I fondled a pair of Galileos the other night, and I can tell you, they are crazy stiff. Another word on the street is that the increased durability should allow 5.10 to put ultra-thin Onyx soles on more models. That interests me a bunch.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Apr 3, 2005, 4:43 AM
Post #28 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
I stumbled upon these looking for either a new pair of miura or anasazi at REI. In person they look like a white anasazi with new cheesier straps and heel look. I tried them on and they felt exactly like the anasazi but I could tell right away that the sole was stiffer and rubber is a bit harder when standing on the rock samples. They feel sticky though. So I bought them. I don't think there will be much difference in these and my anasazi but I hope they last longer as claimed. Also, they're only 125 compared to 139 for the anasazi. Seems like they're trying to phase out the anasazi.
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Apr 3, 2005, 11:15 PM
Post #29 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
Any one know if you can get the onyx as a resole? I love the stealth but man I burn through it fast. I'd do all my shoes in onyx if it was more durable.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Apr 4, 2005, 6:38 PM
Post #30 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
So now that I've tried them, they're a bit stiff. The rubber is hard, even a bit harder than sportiva, but they didn't make the sole thinner like sportiva did with the miura's so the galileo is a lot stiffer. It is sticky but the anasazi and miura conforms to the shape of the small nubs and that gives them more sensitivity...just enough to make them the right combination of stiffness/edging and feel/sensitivity. The stiffness of the galileo makes it good on very small edges but again the feel is different as well because with anasazi you can feel when your toe hold is solid and feel when your toe is slipping off so you can re-position your foot on the hold....with these shoes you position your toe on the hold and trust that it won't pop off the hold when you weight it. They do stay on the the edges very well though.
Overall I prefer the feel and sensitivity of the anasazi but I got used to the galileo and I know I could climb anything I could with the anasazi. So for me it comes down to if the rubber lasts longer then I'd keep getting the galileo over the anasazi and use them for everyday workout use. So far, it looks like the Onyx rubber will last longer because there's not even a scuff mark on the rubber compared to anasazi's which usually look very scuffed up after the first couple of uses.
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Apr 4, 2005, 7:09 PM
Post #31 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
i am assuming that it would be better than stealth? right? or else why use it??
|
|
|
|
|
e_wire
Apr 4, 2005, 8:03 PM
Post #33 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 263
|
I've been using them on plastic for more then 2 months now, and I find the Galileo more precise then my old Anasazi and MadRock. Yes the sole is stiffer, but quite good (better) on edging. The rubber is, in my opinion, as good as C4 and looks like it will last quite a bit longer too!
e_wire
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Apr 4, 2005, 8:04 PM
Post #34 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
this is great news...cool! I hope you will be able to resole with it soon.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderkid17
Apr 4, 2005, 8:11 PM
Post #35 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2005
Posts: 78
|
THAT DISIGN IS WEIRD
|
|
|
|
|
boulderkid17
Apr 4, 2005, 8:11 PM
Post #36 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2005
Posts: 78
|
IT LOOKS SORTA WEIRD
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Apr 4, 2005, 9:39 PM
Post #37 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
They look like a cross between the MR mugen and anasazi. They do attract attention though so several times a night you're going to hear the line, "I thought those were those white madrocks", followed by a bunch of other questions. They should have went with blue or red...or stick with orange and put the new logos on them.
As far as them being more precise than anasazi.....they're exactly the same shoe except that they have a harder rubber. I think the harder, sharper shoe edge makes it so you have to do your foot placements with more precision. I'd rather feel the rock a bit more though. The harder rubber makes it easier to stand on small holds for longer times but I don't need it that stiff because I'm light and I had moccs for a long time which are very soft and made my toes stronger. Plus I undersize 1.5 sizes from street shoes so my toes are curled and the top of the shoe is tight on my foot which gives me the power when i need it with the anasazi's.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Apr 21, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #39 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
fyi i tested these shoes out a month ago and thought they performed excellent on plastic. have not had the chance to test on real rock yet.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Apr 21, 2005, 7:42 PM
Post #40 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
someone in my school's gym was wearing those and he said he really liked them, although he said he felt no difference in the new rubber
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Apr 21, 2005, 7:57 PM
Post #41 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
just wanted to add that the Galileo seems to be constructed very well, better than the ansazi and t rox, which both fell apart on me.
rubber does seem more durable only difference i noticed
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Apr 21, 2005, 8:06 PM
Post #42 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
In reply to: this is great news...cool! I hope you will be able to resole with it soon.
5.10 says the Rubber Room has the new rubber. HOWEVER, they're only allowing them to put "Onyx" on 5.10 shoes - not on other brands.
|
|
|
|
|
e_wire
Apr 21, 2005, 8:13 PM
Post #43 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 263
|
Actually, the reason why the Galileo are the only shoe that have the rubber is quite simple. The rubber can only be done in small batches, so FiveTen can't have it on all of it's shoes. For this reason, only the Galileo will have the new Onyx rubber, until they can start mass producing it.
By the way - the shoe won the Editors Pick award from Climbing Magazine. Not bad for a "dorky" looking shoe!
e_wire
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Apr 21, 2005, 10:56 PM
Post #44 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
In reply to: In reply to: this is great news...cool! I hope you will be able to resole with it soon. 5.10 says the Rubber Room has the new rubber. HOWEVER, they're only allowing them to put "Onyx" on 5.10 shoes - not on other brands.
Whoa - that sounds wrong. Can anyone say Microsft anti-trust? Using your strength in the rubber industry to force consumer choice of other products? Maybe I'm way off the mark here but something sounds fishy about this. I don't FIT 5.10 shoes but love the rubber (which I bet has a GREAT markup) Why restrict me from buying their rubber (that I LIKE) just because I don't FIT their shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
tigerbythetail
Apr 22, 2005, 12:10 AM
Post #45 of 45
(7956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 514
|
In reply to: 5.10 says the Rubber Room has the new rubber. HOWEVER, they're only allowing them to put "Onyx" on 5.10 shoes - not on other brands.
Bzzzzzzzzt, nice try but wrong. NO resolers currently have Onyx rubber, but when available all authorized 5.10 resolers (who choose to) will carry it.
In reply to: Actually, the reason why the Galileo are the only shoe that have the rubber is quite simple. The rubber can only be done in small batches, so FiveTen can't have it on all of it's shoes. For this reason, only the Galileo will have the new Onyx rubber, until they can start mass producing it.
This is the reason it's only on one model for now.
In reply to: Whoa - that sounds wrong. Can anyone say Microsft anti-trust? Using your strength in the rubber industry to force consumer choice of other products? Maybe I'm way off the mark here but something sounds fishy about this. I don't FIT 5.10 shoes but love the rubber (which I bet has a GREAT markup) Why restrict me from buying their rubber (that I LIKE) just because I don't FIT their shoes.
Get your facts straight before posting half-baked condemnations.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
