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jeffstephan
Apr 3, 2005, 5:18 AM
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Inspired by Chris Owen's Urban Rock 3rd edition, I decided to spend my spring break by finally venturing out to this north side of stoney. Owen talks about top-roping potential located in the corner of Topanga Canyon and the 118 East on ramp sitting above the OLD Topanga Cyn blvd. I decided to venture out to the end of old topanga, and continued on the horse trail that wound down to the north field we always see across the tracks from Carousel.
There I found many boulders negelected over time. I say neglected because (1st) There is nothing NEW to stoney point. Everything has been explored long before I was born. (2nd) This was proved to me due to finding old rusted bolts and one carved initial atop a boulder stating "BE '73". This was (unfortunatly) carved 2 yrs. before I existed. I have since named this boulder "Disco". Another excellent boulder is located just past Disco continuing East on the horse trail until it ends. Continue on the smaller trail which eventually raps around to the West facing side of Godfather boulder - home to many hard problems. The sandstone itself holds much potential. I have only just begun to explore and have listed a few problems on this site under the section entitled Old Country (the North Side).
My wish is that these boulders see more travel by climbers looking to change their palet. I realize the 12 minute hike will detract many. As sad as that sounds this is actually a good thing considering that one of the plus factors about the Old Country is solidarity. But the more travel a boulder gets, the cleaner and greater potential for classics emerge. You will find gritty sandstone. You will find adventure. And you WILL revive history. Go get 'em and be sure to post your findings.
Easy day-
Jeff Stephan
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baja_java
Apr 3, 2005, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: My wish is that these boulders see more travel by climbers looking to change their palet. I realize the 12 minute hike will detract many. As sad as that sounds this is actually a good thing considering that one of the plus factors about the Old Country is solidarity. But the more travel a boulder gets, the cleaner and greater potential for classics emerge. You will find gritty sandstone. You will find adventure. And you WILL revive history. Go get 'em and be sure to post your findings.
just want to point out that SOLIDARITY usually involves a lot of striking workers marching around with big wide banners, arm in arm, and the authorities spraying said marchers with big fire hoses, not unlike the Solidarity movement they had a while back in Poland, led by Lech Walesa, who of course got arrested a few times and made to enjoy solitude in prison cells furnished with sparse Communist decor
SOLIDARNOSC!!
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jeffstephan
Apr 3, 2005, 11:08 PM
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Solitude.
As in avoiding people who love to point out spelling errors.
Positive and constructive criticism of the area encouraged.
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jeffstephan
Apr 23, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Here's a ruff topo of the central area.
Remeber the area is still dirty with many boulders exfoiliating. There is however evidence of climbing history here and I can see why...excellent problems. Let's bring this area back to life-
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=52851
Jeff
http://www.msnusers.com/...%20Old%20Country.jpg
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jeffstephan
Jul 18, 2005, 12:12 AM
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The area is cleaning up nicely unveiling many quality problems. There is also an easier way to get out to the old country area:
Take Topanga Cyn south past stoney. At the bottom of the hill, make a left onto Chadsworth. After crossing the tracks make a left on Canoga. Continue past stop sign and park on left side directly before the 118 overpass.
This access is mainly used for horses so please be sure not to park your car directly infront of the gate.
Take the obvious trail up and around. It will deposit you in the main area coming in from the north. 8^)
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jeffstephan
Sep 22, 2005, 9:21 PM
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I've posted an updated topo for the main area. Much thanks to Matt Stanich for his help in exploration. It's slowly getting cleaned up and producing some gems. PM me with new routes and keep sending!
Here's the link to the current topo with 38 bp's.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photo/photo_show.php?list_sort=highest_first&list_keyword=&list_category=0&list_filter_user_id=&list_comment_user_id=&list_per_page=25&list_album_id=&list_CountryStateID=&list_AreaID=&list_SectionID=15105&list_mode=approved&list_period=None&list_start=12&id=61536
8^)
Jeff
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jeffstephan
Sep 24, 2005, 9:54 PM
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Matt Stanich and I spent quite a bit of time cleaning up Grandfather. Here's a few more BP's worth mentioning:
Sir Nosecrack V0 To the right of Old and wrinkled. Layback and jam up the offwith. SDS - Booger V1
Dionysis V2 Right of Sir Nosecrack. Left on sidepull right on undercling. Strait up using a tricky backstep and small left pocket.
Shakey Jake V1 To the right of Dionysis. Up using the dish and a right heelhook.
Diving Board V0 Around corner from Shakey Jake. Go strait up the easy ramp to the roof. The mantle is commiting with bad fall potential. Set up pad around the left side of ramp incase a dive is needed. Great problem!
Shakey Jake's left side pull has broken leaving it at V2ish by throwing the right strait up to the horizontal crack
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