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mother_sheep
May 24, 2005, 3:57 PM
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I'm heading to Wild Iris this weekend. I have no beta on the area or the climbing. All I know is that it is Limestone sport climbing at a higher elevation. Is there camping in the area. Any walls to hit with a high concentration of 10s and 11s with a few 9s to warm up on?
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screamer
May 24, 2005, 4:09 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=215
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boadman
May 24, 2005, 4:21 PM
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You're allowed to camp in or near the parking lot, it's all BLM, I think. It might be chilly up there at night. It's great for the 5.10 sport leader, less fun for harder routes. If it's cold, head to Sinks, which is actually a better crag, in my opinion. Have a good time.
In reply to: I'm heading to Wild Iris this weekend. I have no beta on the area or the climbing. All I know is that it is Limestone sport climbing at a higher elevation. Is there camping in the area. Any walls to hit with a high concentration of 10s and 11s with a few 9s to warm up on? |
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jakewolf
May 24, 2005, 4:27 PM
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I was there years ago with a girlfriend who wanted to lead some easier stuff and was looking to toprope mostly 5.10s. We ended up climbing mostly at sinks canyon to accomadate her. I remeber lots of fairly long moderate routes. If I remember correctly sinks is like ten minutes the other way from town.
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icenwy
May 24, 2005, 4:29 PM
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If you have the time, stop at Fremont on the way. Longer routes, great trad and sport lines on incredible granite over a river(if you want).
At Iris, there is a section named 5.10 wall. Good warm ups there (a 9 or two, with plenty of 10s).
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mother_sheep
May 24, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: If you have the time, stop at Fremont on the way. Longer routes, great trad and sport lines on incredible granite over a river(if you want). At Iris, there is a section named 5.10 wall. Good warm ups there (a 9 or two, with plenty of 10s).
So I don't have to leave my rack at home. That was going to be my next question.
Thanks!
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bluesky
May 24, 2005, 4:33 PM
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I was at sinks 10 days ago and the word was that there were large drifts covering the road up to Iris in spots. It was impassible even to high clearance 4WD, but easily walkable. It has been warm in the area lately, so maybe that has changed.
At Iris some of the must dos in the range are Five Ten Wall, and the routes: Easy Ridin (10d - Rode Hard), The Devil Wears Spurs (10d - Wild Horses), Gaucho (10+ Zorro Sector), Many at the OK Corrall (A Few 9 and sub 9's, 10's and 11's).
Sinks rocks also -- many awesome lines at all grades. So don't worry if you can't make it to Iris.
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troutboy
May 24, 2005, 4:34 PM
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In reply to: I'm heading to Wild Iris this weekend. I have no beta on the area or the climbing. All I know is that it is Limestone sport climbing at a higher elevation. Is there camping in the area. Any walls to hit with a high concentration of 10s and 11s with a few 9s to warm up on?
You're definitely pushing the beginning of the season. You might want to check with a local on current snow conditions. Wild Iris is at 9,000 feet +/-. The road up to the camping and cliffs may not yet be passable. Sinks Canyon should be fine though.
My guidebook is at home. Send me a PM and I'll peruse the book for some suggestions if you want. There are several climbs not in the latest guide. I have some beta on them.
Enjoy, it's a great place to climb and visit (at least it was when I've been there in July :wink: ).
T
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alpnclmbr1
May 24, 2005, 4:39 PM
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greenhorns in velvet 5.7
annie get your drill 9+
aces and eights 10b
the devil wears spurs 10d classic
tribal war 11b well bolted classic
cowboy joe 10c worthwhile
buckskin billy9+
take your hat off 10a
wotai 10d unique
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mother_sheep
May 24, 2005, 4:41 PM
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Is Sinks Limestone as well?
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photon
May 24, 2005, 4:43 PM
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there's absolutely no reason to stop at Fremont for a weekend trip to wild iris, if that really is your intention. You're driving from Co on Friday I'm assuming so it will be dark when you arrive or close to it, headlamp climbing in Fremont RIIIGGGTT. it's a 3 hour drive or so from Fremont to Iris so I doubt you'll want to camp at Fremont do a few pitches that morning which will take you ahwile as you have to rap into everything for the most part before you climb it etc.., break camp and then drive 3 hours to Iris, set up camp and then climb there for half a day saturday and a half a day sunday and break camp again? You can camp up by Wild iris town is half hour away, so if you don't want to make that trip be sure you have everything you need for the weekend. People will be able to show you where the 10 wall is or whatever else you want to climb on if you don't want to buy the guidebook. It can still snow at iris fairly easily this time of year as has been mentioned. I would personally go to Sinks as it has better climbing, is closer to town and has better weather this time of yer compared to Iris.
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icenwy
May 24, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2005
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In reply to: So I don't have to leave my rack at home. That was going to be my next question
Sinks had some trad routes too, but Fremont is a gem. I live about the same distance between the two desitinations, and I'll be at Fremont 9 times outta' 10 (heat wave exclusion).
FYI: The Tower has an open house this weekend (before the voluntary closure in June).
Have fun!
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whipperboy
May 24, 2005, 5:29 PM
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I was up there last weekend, it's still a little chilly and there was one pretty good sized drift in the road leading to the parking lot. That's not really a problem, 'cuz you can just park on the road. I doubt if the drift will clear this week. Much climbing in the grades you are looking for, check the OK corral or head over to the 5.10 wall or Hot Tamale area (Devil wears Spurs 10d, awesome). Enjoy.....
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