|
infiniteexposure
Jun 13, 2005, 3:52 PM
Post #1 of 5
(1413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 12
|
Anyone been up there recently? We're climbing the East Arete this weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jun 13, 2005, 4:17 PM
Post #2 of 5
(1413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
I was up on Lone Pine a couple of weeks ago. THre was more snow than expected, bu the toute was doable. We got good views of Russell and it looked clear enough. We also ran into a guy who said he just did the east ridge of Russell and said there was some snow on the route but you could go around it. And this was two weeks ago, so I'm sure it has only gotten better.
|
|
|
|
|
infiniteexposure
Jun 13, 2005, 8:53 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 12
|
Thanks for the Beta! I wonder how the snow was that "he went around". We'll check it out........
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jun 13, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #4 of 5
(1413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
Let me know how it goes, I'm going up there in three weeks to do it too.
|
|
|
|
|
infiniteexposure
Jun 20, 2005, 4:36 PM
Post #5 of 5
(1413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 12
|
We had a great climb!!
General conditions:
For the approach - some snow was encountered above Lower Boy Scout Lake. Upper Boy Scout Lake had dry bivy areas. Winds on Friday were steady at 15MPH with gust up to 25MPH. Saturday had little to no wind and Sunday the winds were back. Temps from 30 - 70 degrees.
The slope under the col had about 3 feet deep of snow and we chose to ascend that way to avoid the scree. In the morning it was quite firm thus requiring crampons. The ridge to Russell was dry except the area just below the East Summit, but the post hole track was waist deep and afforded plenty of protection (no crampons). We did encounter a short section (15 feet) of snow/ice 5 minutes below the West Summit that was about 6 inches wide on top and required crampons as one slip and there would be no chance of self arrest. I suppose it could have been avoided by climbing higher on the ridge or down climbing considerably below it, but we had crampons so it was the quickest solution.
Please keep in mind that the hot temps during the day are rapidly changing the conditions. For example, on our way down yesterday we were amazed that so much snow had melted off the traverse above Lower Boyscout Lake (exposing a large large talus area that was covered just two days before).
Good Luck!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
