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james_climber
Jul 2, 2005, 8:40 PM
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Have you mixed climbing with gym (not indoor climbing)?
Which was the result?
Did you improve?
I dont know if is a good idea get back to gym a few days during the week to rebuilt big arms , back and chest.
I feel too heavy on overhangs , im short 1.67m , and 78 kgs
What do you think ?
What would you do?http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=41045
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crgwhe
Jul 3, 2005, 3:53 AM
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With out a doubt, a weight training routing improves climbing ability in a number of ways. I’m sure someone will reply to your post with more incite on lifting as it relates to climbing. As my work out regiment is not climbing specific at all.
I climb every Monday and Wednesday, and do the weight thing every Tuesday and Thursday. If I skip the weights for a number of weeks, I can feel the difference when attempting to power through a move. Another thing I noticed which I haven't seen mentioned here; Is grip strength improved by holding onto barbells/dumbbells? I’d venture to say it is.
Have to be careful with overtraining though. Your body needs time for recovery.
Shoulden't this be under Technique & Training instead of General?
Edited to add a thought; Do a search and you will find a wealth of informatino related to your question.
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climbsomething
Jul 3, 2005, 4:01 AM
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climbsomething moved this thread from General to Technique & Training.
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spottyfish
Jul 3, 2005, 4:31 AM
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Weight training is excellent for helping to keep you in shape for climbing.
What I would recommend is to do some periodization with your weight training in order to help you with both muscular strength AND endurance, as both are important for climbing. What it will also do is keep your body from plateauing, which is what happens if your routine gets stagnant.
Periodization can get extremely complicated. What it basically means is to adjust your training routine so that you're not just emphasizing on lifting heavier weights.
In a nutshell, what you want to do, is focus on strength for awhile (lifting heavier weights at lower reps), and then slowly transition to focus on endurance (lifting lighter weights at higher reps...usually up to 12-15 reps per set). Then you can switch back to strength.
Again, that's just it in a nutshell. I took many classes in college on periodization, so I could go on and on. If you want to know more, you could probably Google it and find some resources.
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flipnfall
Jul 3, 2005, 11:59 AM
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I weight train with a twist--I add weight while I climb. There are isolation exercises I do such as pull-ups, bench press, sit-ups, etc. I have experienced noticable improvements in my climbing from all of these.
I think the gym can help climbing.
GT
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overlord
Jul 7, 2005, 2:01 PM
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in your case id really consider loosing some weight. im 176cm and 71kg and am still to heavy imho.
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jt512
Jul 7, 2005, 4:20 PM
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In reply to: With out a doubt, a weight training routing improves climbing ability in a number of ways. I’m sure someone will reply to your post with more incite on lifting as it relates to climbing. As my work out regiment is not climbing specific at all. I climb every Monday and Wednesday, and do the weight thing every Tuesday and Thursday. If I skip the weights for a number of weeks, I can feel the difference when attempting to power through a move.
If you focus on climbing efficiently you may find that weight training is doing more harm than good to your climbing by reinforcing poor climbing habits like powering through moves.
-Jay
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crgwhe
Jul 10, 2005, 1:50 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: With out a doubt, a weight training routing improves climbing ability in a number of ways. I’m sure someone will reply to your post with more incite on lifting as it relates to climbing. As my work out regiment is not climbing specific at all. I climb every Monday and Wednesday, and do the weight thing every Tuesday and Thursday. If I skip the weights for a number of weeks, I can feel the difference when attempting to power through a move. If you focus on climbing efficiently you may find that weight training is doing more harm than good to your climbing by reinforcing poor climbing habits like powering through moves. -Jay
More harm than good? The only two ways I can see weight training degrading ones ability to climb better is by either lifting for mass, thereby building muscle which limits ones ability to move or stretch freely, or by (like you mentioned) enforcing powering through a move as opposed to technique.
Keep in mind, I don’t make it a habit of questioning more experienced climbers. But I think your post is a little broad.
As long as one keeps the weights low and the reps high (concentrating on increasing endurance as opposed to muscle mass) this will improve climbing ability by building muscle, thereby increasing strength. Rock Climbing by Don Mellor and How to Climb 5.12 by Eric Horst, both mention weight training as a means to improve climbing ability.
The powering through a move deal is a mind set. Sure, being able to pull yourself up a hold with one arm might come in handy. But technique takes priority. Eric Horst writes in his book; “Unfortunately, too many climbers obsess on strength training prior to perfecting the fundamentals of climbing movement. This approach will stunt technical growth, mushroom frustrations, and all but zero the chances of attaining the skill and strength to become a true master of rock.”
At least once a week, my son and I work strictly on technique for that two hour climbing period. As long as one realizes that technique overshadows strength, a weight training routine will do more good to ones climbing ability than harm.
Here is a small portion of my weight routine for biceps:
Concentration curls;
20 lbs, 12 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 minute
25 lbs. 10 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 min.
30 lbs. 8 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min.
35 lbs. 6 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min.
40 lbs. 4 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min.
25 lbs. 12 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 min.
Barbell Curls to finish;
25 lbs. 12 reps. slow movement both up and down.
Keep in mind, this is not the type of routine the OP is looking for. As I mentioned, my weight training is not climbing specific as I have no desire to become an elite climber, yet I still show improvement in climbing ability. Go figure.
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mcgivney_nh
Jul 11, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Weight training will definatley help with your strength (on rock). But if you do some cardio too, you will likely notice vast improvements with multipitch climbs or just longer routes.
I do alot of training for cfor climbinglimbing outside of climbing (such as weight training) but I make sure that I am focussing on building strength not muscle mass.
-Sean
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jt512
Jul 11, 2005, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: With out a doubt, a weight training routing improves climbing ability in a number of ways. I’m sure someone will reply to your post with more incite on lifting as it relates to climbing. As my work out regiment is not climbing specific at all. I climb every Monday and Wednesday, and do the weight thing every Tuesday and Thursday. If I skip the weights for a number of weeks, I can feel the difference when attempting to power through a move. If you focus on climbing efficiently you may find that weight training is doing more harm than good to your climbing by reinforcing poor climbing habits like powering through moves. -Jay Eric Horst writes in his book; “Unfortunately, too many climbers obsess on strength training prior to perfecting the fundamentals of climbing movement. This approach will stunt technical growth, mushroom frustrations, and all but zero the chances of attaining the skill and strength to become a true master of rock.”
In other words, Horst and I are in agreement.
In reply to: At least once a week, my son and I work strictly on technique for that two hour climbing period.
I concentrate on technique every time I climb.
In reply to: Here is a small portion of my weight routine for biceps: Concentration curls; 20 lbs, 12 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 minute 25 lbs. 10 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 min. 30 lbs. 8 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min. 35 lbs. 6 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min. 40 lbs. 4 reps, slow movement both up and down. Rest 1 min. 25 lbs. 12 reps, quick movement. Rest 1 min. Barbell Curls to finish; 25 lbs. 12 reps. slow movement both up and down.
Oy.
In reply to: Keep in mind, this is not the type of routine the OP is looking for.
I'll say!
In reply to: As I mentioned, my weight training is not climbing specific as I have no desire to become an elite climber, yet I still show improvement in climbing ability. Go figure.
So how hard has all this weight lifting (I can't call what you do "training") enabled you to climb.
-Jay
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crgwhe
Jul 11, 2005, 6:51 PM
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So how hard has all this weight lifting enabled me to climb?
I found myself initially unable to answer your question because I usually don’t take into account the grades of a climb. If I see something I want to abseil, I just give it a go. In order to properly post a reply, I went through the rc.com route database and pulled out some route maps of some of the places I have climbed. Below is what I found;
Top Rope/Mineral Wells State Park
Usually staying within the 5.6 to 5.8 range, some of the harder climbs would be
Pee Wee’s 5.10c
Line Left of Pee Wee’s 5.10a
Black Flag 5.11d
Sport/Paradise on the Brazos
Usually staying within the 5.8 to5.9 range, some of the harder climbs would be
Patio Wall area; Unintended Consequences 5.10b
Stockyards area; Tribal Bros 5.11a
Mark Us Dubios 5.10c
Maybe I need to start keeping track of my climbs.
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bustloose
Jul 11, 2005, 7:03 PM
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without a doubt, weight training is a complete and utter waste of time if you are looking to improve your climbing.
Want to get to be a better climber? climb more. train effeciently, or more specifially, actually *train* instead of just going to the gym and chillin wit cha homies in tda cave.
during the time you spend pumping iron, you could have been climbnig for probably twice as long, improving your body skills and technique while your arms and fingers get stronger.
isolating muscle groups does not translate to climbing, where you are using many muscles in conjunction, and in ways that are nearly impossible to duplicate outside of climbing. *lunge for this hold, set on it, pull up about half way, change the angle, pull it in and lock it off, and reach past with the other arm*
just learn to train in the gym, you will build stamina, technique and body logic every time you go.
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jt512
Jul 11, 2005, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: So how hard has all this weight lifting enabled me to climb? I found myself initially unable to answer your question because I usually don’t take into account the grades of a climb. If I see something I want to abseil, I just give it a go. In order to properly post a reply, I went through the rc.com route database and pulled out some route maps of some of the places I have climbed. Below is what I found; Top Rope/Mineral Wells State Park Usually staying within the 5.6 to 5.8 range, some of the harder climbs would be Pee Wee’s 5.10c Line Left of Pee Wee’s 5.10a Black Flag 5.11d Sport/Paradise on the Brazos Usually staying within the 5.8 to5.9 range, some of the harder climbs would be Patio Wall area; Unintended Consequences 5.10b Stockyards area; Tribal Bros 5.11a Mark Us Dubios 5.10c Maybe I need to start keeping track of my climbs.
Maybe you need to start keeping track of your climbs, so you know whether you're actually improving or not, and maybe you need to review English grammar so that others will be able to understand what you're writing. At any rate, I lifted weights for years, but was barely able to climb 5.10; then, I stopped lifting, and began spending the equivalent training time in a climbing gym, and my climbing more-or-less steadily improved to mid-5.12.
-Jay
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rcaret
Jul 11, 2005, 7:21 PM
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[indigo]A mixture of a weight routine and Gym climbing has done the most for me, The gym climbing works for muscle memory if you work it correctly, Weight train working on necessary muscles and doing allot of rep's to make long lean muscle without the bulk from all I have been reading.[/indigo]
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bustloose
Jul 11, 2005, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: [indigo] without the bulk from all I have been reading.[/indigo]
reading makes you bulk up?? dude, buy a paperback.
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jt512
Jul 11, 2005, 7:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: [indigo] without the bulk from all I have been reading.[/indigo] reading makes you bulk up?? dude, buy a paperback.
Yeah, do a little light reading for a change.
-Jay
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kne
Jul 11, 2005, 7:48 PM
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I say you skip the climbing AND weight training all together and just start eating pizza with ice cream and chocolate shakes
Edit: I love pizza.(And chocolate shakes)
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kcht
Jul 28, 2005, 3:22 AM
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I think weight training plus climbing its just too much for most of the people... and even if you can hadle it, why just not climb more? or campus training? or hangboard training? or indoor climbing? or yoga gymnast training or some other type of bodyweight training?
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renohandjams
Jul 28, 2005, 4:28 AM
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I used to use bouldering for my strength training and power. I thought it helped. Working out the right muscles at the gym also helped, triceps, pull pulldowns, pullups. My favorite work out was just doing burn outs on a bull up bar (hands away instead of towards) in front and behind the head. I think it helps, but why work out when the weather is good and you can go climb outside instead?
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