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ikefromla


Jul 12, 2005, 1:41 AM
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And with it comes the annual gathering.

Sept? Oct?

Bobd? BVB? Curt?

If those little cockroches are going to be there.... I just might come.... I want to see if they can still climb as well as they spray!


oh yea, HAHA!!!1
i heard they crank ill sick gnar hard...


ford


Jul 12, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Ed IS an anchor. :lol: (not a dig, because I am, too!)

Plus, ya gotta admire the whipper that can loft epic ed like a helium balloon. :shock:

He shoulda used that boost to get past the start holds.....


---Free Fall Ford---


jt512


Jul 12, 2005, 3:21 AM
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Many options in Flagstaff.

Yep. If we do this in, say, November, we could also include a snow slog speed run up and down Humpheries.

Think: A lake, stocked with trout... catch and cook fresh trout for dinner. Some almonds, a bit of sage.... good eating.

Are you and I actually from the same planet?

-Jay


jt512


Jul 12, 2005, 3:25 AM
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Plus, ya gotta admire the whipper that can loft epic ed like a helium balloon. :shock:

He shoulda used that boost to get past the start holds.....

Sometimes the best flames come from the quiet guys.

-Jay


reno


Jul 12, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Yep. If we do this in, say, November, we could also include a snow slog speed run up and down Humpheries.

Think: A lake, stocked with trout... catch and cook fresh trout for dinner. Some almonds, a bit of sage.... good eating.

Are you and I actually from the same planet?

Nope. You live in SoCal.

:wink:


climbsomething


Jul 12, 2005, 3:37 AM
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This is already an amusing thread!

I've been wanting to slog up Humphries for years now. But a sport climbing desert betty at 12,600 feet.... well, it'd amuse the CO Contingent wouldn't it? ;)


reno


Jul 12, 2005, 3:39 AM
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But a sport climbing desert betty at 12,600 feet.... well, it'd amuse the CO Contingent wouldn't it? ;)

Hillary:

Back in Colorado, we call a 12,600 foot peak "the approach."


climbsomething


Jul 12, 2005, 3:41 AM
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See? You're amused already!


epic_ed


Jul 12, 2005, 4:08 AM
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Alex -- the insulation ain't getting any thinner with all of these family commitments and honey-do bullshit around the house on the weekend. I'm as comfy as a polar bear these days. High speed internet?! No way -- you're never going to get any work done, now. Welcome back to the land of wasted time, bro. It reminds me of the lollipop guide most days...

Jay -- anchor? We don't need no stinkin' anchor. If I was anchored in, Ford probably would have ripped the cam that held him and likely decked. I think Art said only two lobes of that yellow Alien were still in the crack. :shock:

Let's do the FORKS! Or at least the general Flagstaff area again. Sport on Saturday, trad on Sunday...or vice versa. I could probably even be talked into bringing the aid gear along. I'm an expert in the techniques of bailing and retreat and would be happy to show anyone the tricks necessary to rappel with a 200 lb+ pig.

Ed


phugganut


Jul 12, 2005, 4:11 AM
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Ok this will probably crash with a resounding thud, but here goes...

How about something different? I would vote for Cochise. It's got trad from 1 - 8 pitches, a bit of bouldering, and a couple of sport climbing areas on each side. It even has MP sport on the East side. Plenty of free camping, plenty of room, not too terribly far from a town for supplies, and lots of quality granite. If nothing else it would be something different from the 'same old same old' at Flag. The new sport climbing area on the East side is, I'm told, quite fun.

Anyway, since it will never fly, I guess I would go wherever the group decides.


epic_ed


Jul 12, 2005, 4:13 AM
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I would LOVE to do Cochise! It's my favorite crag in AZ. Plentiful camping.

Ed


climbsomething


Jul 12, 2005, 4:19 AM
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I could probably even be talked into bringing the aid gear along. I'm an expert in the techniques of bailing and retreat and would be happy to show anyone the tricks necessary to rappel with a 200 lb+ pig.

Aww!


epic_ed


Jul 12, 2005, 5:31 AM
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Nah, nah -- it's OK. I've found my niche.


ford


Jul 12, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out. He slid it back in, and said it was a textbook placement.
That's Basalt for ya.
And that was NOT meant as a flame against my 'brother from another mother' Epic Ed, He's a hero in my book. (Hell, anyone brave enough to belay a boat-anchor like Me gets hero status)
But hey.... that was last year 8^)


---Ford---


jt512


Jul 12, 2005, 5:58 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay


azblazer18


Jul 12, 2005, 6:52 PM
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First things first. I've only been climbing for a few months now, and I'm loving every minute of it. Second, my partner/mentor has been gone for 3 weeks now so I have been forced to go gym climbing (hate it). I would love to meet some other climbers who might be willing to take me under there wing. This gathering seems like the perfect opportunity to do just that. Since I will be moving to Flag at the end of the summer so the closer the better. And in the meantime if anyone would like to let me tag along and learn a few things I would be grateful. Hope to see you all in October.


elvislegs


Jul 12, 2005, 7:15 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay

yeah, i think so. at least on the small pieces with less surface area.

if teh forks is like the basalt around here (and it looks to be similar at least), you're really never that far off the deck. blowing one piece could potentially put you out of commission.

sorry for the little hijack, it's just so seldom that i feel i have something worthwhile to contribute.

sounds like a fun gathering BTW. would love to come down and meet everyone, but i'm not making any promises to anyone right now.


Partner artm


Jul 12, 2005, 7:28 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out. He slid it back in, and said it was a textbook placement.
That's Basalt for ya.
Two lobes with good contact two lobes with marginal to bad contact. The piece had obviously moved during the fall.
Once I removed the piece I saw where the lobes scraped the rock.
I put it back in more or less where the Fordster had originally placed it.
Looked good in that spot but then again I don't weigh as much as Ford.
I also slotted a red alien where Ford's blue one pulled, I don't trust small cam placements I can't visually see and a blue alien in that spot goes in waaaay deeper than a red one.
Ford sewed up that route pretty well but I've watched someone zipper gear from the top down pulling 2 cams and 2 nuts. Fortunately that unlucky soul turned out to be pretty lucky and landed in a thick bush without a single scratch.


grin-n-barrett
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Jul 12, 2005, 7:29 PM
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bump


knol


Jul 12, 2005, 7:44 PM
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well, i dont climb... but, if someone pays my share of gas (and drives me up there), i'll try and take purdy pictures of you all... im getting better, honestly...


crimpandgo


Jul 12, 2005, 7:50 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay

yeah, i think so. at least on the small pieces with less surface area.

if teh forks is like the basalt around here (and it looks to be similar at least), you're really never that far off the deck. blowing one piece could potentially put you out of commission.

sorry for the little hijack, it's just so seldom that i feel i have something worthwhile to contribute.

sounds like a fun gathering BTW. would love to come down and meet everyone, but i'm not making any promises to anyone right now.


Not too long ago, a young climber lost his life at the forks cause his gear ripped. It may not be that far off the deck, but its definitely far enough :)

Never climbed there but it does sound like fun. :):)


elvislegs


Jul 12, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay

yeah, i think so. at least on the small pieces with less surface area.

if teh forks is like the basalt around here (and it looks to be similar at least), you're really never that far off the deck. blowing one piece could potentially put you out of commission.

sorry for the little hijack, it's just so seldom that i feel i have something worthwhile to contribute.

sounds like a fun gathering BTW. would love to come down and meet everyone, but i'm not making any promises to anyone right now.


Not too long ago, a young climber lost his life at the forks cause his gear ripped. It may not be that far off the deck, but its definitely far enough :)

Never climbed there but it does sound like fun. :):)

my point was that you are never far enough off of the deck that you can afford to blow a piece, thus making it a good idea to sew it up a bit. i thought that was evident, but maybe not.


obsessed_newbie


Jul 12, 2005, 8:26 PM
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I am new to the area and this sounds like the perfect way to meet climbers. Give me dates and locations and i will be there. If anyone wants to carpool too, i am all about saving car miles and not paying for gas money on my own.


crimpandgo


Jul 12, 2005, 9:01 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay

yeah, i think so. at least on the small pieces with less surface area.

if teh forks is like the basalt around here (and it looks to be similar at least), you're really never that far off the deck. blowing one piece could potentially put you out of commission.

sorry for the little hijack, it's just so seldom that i feel i have something worthwhile to contribute.

sounds like a fun gathering BTW. would love to come down and meet everyone, but i'm not making any promises to anyone right now.


Not too long ago, a young climber lost his life at the forks cause his gear ripped. It may not be that far off the deck, but its definitely far enough :)

Never climbed there but it does sound like fun. :):)

my point was that you are never far enough off of the deck that you can afford to blow a piece, thus making it a good idea to sew it up a bit. i thought that was evident, but maybe not.

Your point was evident. I was just adding an example :)


elvislegs


Jul 12, 2005, 9:11 PM
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Darn right, We discussed this before I left ground. Softer catch was of paramount importance on that super-slick basalt. That yellow alien that held, Art went up and saw it. He saw the scratches where I almost yanked it out.

Perhaps the body-length placement rule of thumb, sometimes used for sandstone, should apply to basalt, too.

-Jay

yeah, i think so. at least on the small pieces with less surface area.

if teh forks is like the basalt around here (and it looks to be similar at least), you're really never that far off the deck. blowing one piece could potentially put you out of commission.

sorry for the little hijack, it's just so seldom that i feel i have something worthwhile to contribute.

sounds like a fun gathering BTW. would love to come down and meet everyone, but i'm not making any promises to anyone right now.


Not too long ago, a young climber lost his life at the forks cause his gear ripped. It may not be that far off the deck, but its definitely far enough :)

Never climbed there but it does sound like fun. :):)

my point was that you are never far enough off of the deck that you can afford to blow a piece, thus making it a good idea to sew it up a bit. i thought that was evident, but maybe not.

Your point was evident. I was just adding an example :)

this time i am just quoting you again because it is making an interesting parttern of boxes.

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