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gblauer
Moderator
Jul 12, 2005, 9:57 PM
Post #276 of 2156
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Hey PA climbers...don't forget about our 3rd annual gathering at the gunks. Curt Harler (author of Climb PA) will be there.
Please see the link for more information:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=91049
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mountainman
Jul 13, 2005, 7:39 PM
Post #277 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Monday & Tuesday at the New.
Monday was Bubba Buttress. "It should be avoided during the hot days of summer." New River Gorge, Steve Cater. Live & learn, eh?
Climbs were: Duck in a Noose 5.8
Face it Bubba start, then traverse to upper Basic Bubba 5.9
Basic Bubba Crack 5.9
Daisy Cutter 5.7 ****
It may not seem like a lot, but the heat & humidity were stultifyingly horrible. Chalk evaporated with every hold.
Tuesday was Junkyard Wall. Much more pleasant, but still a major sweat fest while climbing.
New River Gunks 5.7 ***
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9+ **** WOW!!!!
The Entertainer 5.10a ****
The Distortionist 5.6
New Yosemite 5.9 ***
A star studded day.
I hear Bill, John, Hank & Spyder had a stellar trip out west. Any road tales?
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charley
Jul 14, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #278 of 2156
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We had a great trip. Where near co. sprgs most of the time. Climbed acpl days in 11 mile canyon. Where Hank and I led easy trad. The rest did some toproping and led some trad. Eric was with us and hadn't led in a cpl yrs, so he was getting his lead head back. We then went to a kinda new place called red rock canyon which is bolted climbs all low angle. I tr a 5.9 and led a 5.7 onsight. Which may be warm ups for some folks but was going up a grade or more for me. I think it was more the gradeing in the area than anything by me. Red rock was a nice place with some interesting climbing. Very soft sandstone with little for holds and the ones you find may break off. We then went to veadauwoo wy. Climbed there for a day and a half then started th 1500 mile drive home. Got back for the fourth then headed for seneca the next weekend. A great time was had by all. Spyders web site has some good pics.
Going to coopers this wknd. That's a lot of climbing for an old fart like me.
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mountainman
Jul 14, 2005, 9:14 PM
Post #279 of 2156
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Age is only in your mind
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charley
Jul 14, 2005, 10:33 PM
Post #280 of 2156
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Tell that to my legs and lungs. Actually age had nothing to do with the fact that there is no oxygen at 8000' , at least for my flatlander lungs.
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mountainman
Jul 15, 2005, 12:32 AM
Post #281 of 2156
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As a man thinketh, so he becomes.
i.e.: Call yourself old, you will be old.
Call yourself stupid, you will be stupid.
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ladylayback
Jul 15, 2005, 4:42 PM
Post #282 of 2156
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
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Call youself a hampster, you will be committed
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jlc325i
Jul 18, 2005, 11:24 AM
Post #283 of 2156
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
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Guys... I'm a hampster.
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charley
Jul 18, 2005, 9:27 PM
Post #284 of 2156
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If the weather holds there will be some folks from the burgh at the mill on wed nite. Bring your gear and come meet some local climbers. I went to a climbing party over the wknd. I think more party than climbing. Rock was wet so was the beer. We climbed, it rained, we drank and ate. Had good time.
There is a thread in reg. disc. about someone losing their shoes at lost crag.
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charley
Jul 21, 2005, 2:16 AM
Post #285 of 2156
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Had a good time at the mill tonight. Musta been a dozen ppl. There were about eight ropes up. We climbed till after nine. vo will be there sun.
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bigfoot15642
Jul 22, 2005, 4:09 PM
Post #286 of 2156
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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Hi, how you doin? I'm new to the site and always lookin to do some climbin. I usually climb out at 90ft. in ligonier but climbed at krahlik with the class from exkursions. I have all my own gear to top rope but never enough partners. I've been climbin bout 2years now, so I'm still pretty much a newbee, but i do know how to set up safely. Probably been asked before, but where exactly is the Lost Crag? Thanks.
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charley
Jul 22, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #287 of 2156
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Go to routes, north america, pa. under the links is tim's climbing page. There is a map, guide, and directions. That doesn't work try www.climbpa.telerama.com
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mountainman
Jul 25, 2005, 1:40 PM
Post #288 of 2156
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Two big weekends with the Intimidator and his Merry Men. AKA: Hot Fun in the Summertime.
Last weekend I wanted to show Big I the Junkyard at the New. It was pretty wet, too wet to get up 4 Sheets. We did New Yosemite, New River Gunks, Team Jesus and the Entertainer. A tiring day and I was snoozing in my tent quite early, as the rain fell through the night. The morning was too wet, so we boogied to Summerville and hiked in to the Orange Oswald wall. Flailed on Voodoo Surfing, but did get up Chungo Goes Bouldering. Watched some guy solo up some big face, then take a 40 footer into the lake. Such sublime lunacy.
This weekend was Seneca, where I've only been one day this year. I was teamed with Mikey Brown, badly hung over and slow to get moving. We warmed up on Neck Press, then Marshall's Madness, Cottonmouth and Triple S. I was impressed, these all being new to me. I don't mind admitting I was too blown out to finish Cottonmouth, and basically cried "No Mas, No Mas" So we did Monkey See, Monkey Do, West Poll and Prune, and would have done The Burn but it was occupied, so we went swimming. Ah. Had trouble getting to bed, what with everyone drinking on the porch of the climbing shop hour after hour. Finally just grabbed my stuff and walked over to Princess Snowbird in the dark, and had no troubled sleep or trouble sleeping, either.
Sunday was more of the same. Mike and I warmed up on Le Gourmet, then he led Marshall's Madness and Crack of Dawn in one pitch. Spectacular! "One of the best routes at Seneca" Tony Barnes.
Mike wanted to fall off something, so he led up Broken Neck and took a 30 footer. It wore through the leather of my glove, but better than my hand. The crack bloodied his hand so we walked around to the East face and shade, and found Big I and Ronnie on Pollux. We all climbed it, but I had a harder time on it than last year. Fatigue? Humidity? Recent birthday? I don't know but I did it. The maniacs set a toprope on Spock's Brain, 5.11a and I got maybe a third up it. Ha ha.
I was pretty tired, so I took off a little early but went right instead of left at the base of the downclimb, and after some exciting descents, emerged at the base of Skyline Traverse and found my friends. Was home by 10 and slept like a log.
Sweet young thing to Warren Harding: "Why do you climb?"
Warren: "Because we're insane!"
I may take a week off, being a little beat up.
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charley
Jul 28, 2005, 4:10 PM
Post #289 of 2156
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There are a few folks going to logtown in lisbon ohio, sat morn.
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victor999
Jul 29, 2005, 4:17 PM
Post #290 of 2156
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there's a small group of us going to cooper's tomorrow am, looks like great weather. we'll be at roofrocks or maybe rock city -- might hook up with a couple other guys from ECP at some point-- always nice to share ropes with folks to save time....
victor
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mountainman
Aug 1, 2005, 2:51 AM
Post #291 of 2156
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Sunday report from Coopers.
Went with Ironman, two brothers had Sunset Wall festooned with ropes, we hung one on Stop and Go and one on Stockholm. Climbed for about 6 hours and it was very pleasant. Nice and dry, excellent friction.
Heard a great West Virginia jole:
Why can't they solve any crimes in West Virginia?
There's no dental records and the DNA's all the same!
Since no one has posted, I'll mention that I'm leaving for the New in a few hours, to climb in this terrible heat and humidity. Pray for MM. Until then, frolic like the wild animals you all are.
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climbinvixen
Aug 3, 2005, 3:27 AM
Post #292 of 2156
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 116
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Hi everybody, the Vixen is back.
Glad to see the forum is limping along. I still wish we could all get together and meet, but the impression I get here is that few want to meet and share. Is that so? Believe me, the day will come when we all will wish we'd spent more time caring for each other.
Just a gentle wish that we all treat each other with kindness and love.
Lots of appreciation for Charley, for letting people know of plans and inviting them along. I wish I could get out some, but currently, the bod is not in tune for what i want it to do. So I hope to live through your epics. Post and share, brothers and sisters.
Peace,
Vixen
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charley
Aug 3, 2005, 4:11 PM
Post #293 of 2156
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Vixen, there are folks climbing at the mill tonight. If you want to see the get together thing, pick a place, and a date and see who is interested.
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kimmyt
Aug 3, 2005, 4:18 PM
Post #294 of 2156
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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If you want to attend a gathering, make the hike up to the Gunks for this:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/91049
It's always a good time, with lots of climbing and meeting of new folks.
K.
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tanderson
Aug 4, 2005, 8:27 PM
Post #295 of 2156
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Registered: Sep 28, 2000
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Hello all... looking for partners. Looking to get out this weekend, next week, anytime. Lost Crag, The Knobs, Coll's Cove, ... Lets get a group together. Anyone interested... Holla back!
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tanderson
Aug 4, 2005, 8:49 PM
Post #296 of 2156
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Registered: Sep 28, 2000
Posts: 108
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Group started...
Friday evening 8/5 we will be climbing at Breakneck rocks. Meet time is 4:30 Drop me a line or just show up if interested. Anyone and everyone is invited.
Also still looking for people for next week. Anyone going out?
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mountainman
Aug 4, 2005, 11:29 PM
Post #297 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Another trip report:
Wednesday, August 3, met with Scooter at 8AM as usual. Was climbing at the New by 10:30. First climbed Horton's Tree, short and sweet, then hiked way out past the Bridge Buttress, way farther than I've ever been been. On the Central Bridge Buttress, climbed Midnight Moonlight, a long climb moving up to the left, then over a couple roofs to the top. Not so hard, but nice. So wandering, it would not be a good top rope. Found I'd forgotten to charge my photo battery, so no tasty pics. Hot and humid, but not bad for the time of the year.
Then the best of the day, The Hopfenperle Special. A wide crack at the start, which I laybacked, then a great finger crack, way harder than the grade of 5.7. A special climb. Then some rough hiking over to the North Bridge Buttress. Scooter hurt his rib leading Orange Blossom Special, so we hiked out past the Pinnacle to look at two tremendous cracks, dropped down the road and hiked back.
Thursday, we went to the Bridge Buttress to check out Scooter's rib, and after toproping Easily Flakey, found he wouldn't be climbing for a while. So we toproped all day. His loss was my gain, as first I climbed Angel's Arete, 5.10b. A angelic climb, and it took me a while to find the crux moves, but I climbed it. So proud of this one. Just to the right, did Layback, 5.9+, a polished nightmare. Then did Tree Route, 5.10a, which I fell in love with. The moves are fantastic, demanding and dreamy. I though the tank was empty, but we set up Jaws, 5.9, and I chewed it up. Luckily we'd been in the shade all day, for emerging into the sun it was so mega-hot, we were melting.
Anyway, pray for Scooter, and since I don't get any feedback on my trip reports, if you don't want me writing them, just say so. An open invitation to all you out there! I hope this year is going great for you. I've learned that to climb better, you have to climb harder climbs. A life changing year.
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mountainman
Aug 6, 2005, 3:26 AM
Post #298 of 2156
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Nearly 12k views and 294 replies. Are there really that many lurkers out there who've never said a thing?
A few of us are going to Westwood tomorrow. Probably get there around 10. It's a sport area. Not top-ropable as far as I know
Now I feel really virtuous.
I've been thinking. I never got better as long as I was just climbing the same climbs over and over, although perhaps a foundation was being laid. Perhaps it's wrong for beginners to thrown themselves at 11s too. Anyway, I needed to get to the New and start climbing harder stuff at Seneca. I'm routinely gtetting up 10s now, and that's a big step up from where I've been the last several years. If I ever get up an eleven, that'll be a big deal. Just a thought.
PS: I heard Nelson's closed. Any information?
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charley
Aug 7, 2005, 1:41 PM
Post #299 of 2156
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I went to logtown yesterday with my grandson and some climbing friends from all over. I had a great time. My grandson thought it was awsome. With a little instruction and much beta he was climbing better than I. For you pburgh ppl who have never been there you should give it a try sometime.
Nelsons is closed to climbing except with seneca guides.
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mountainman
Aug 7, 2005, 2:31 PM
Post #300 of 2156
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Is the Nelson closure related to the recent accident?
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