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jerseysundevil
Jul 21, 2005, 2:57 AM
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So I took a lead climbing test today at a gym I workout. I am a decent climber technically, but nothing special. I can top rope around 5.10ish. My big problem with lead climbing is that I suck at clipping the rope in. I usually bobble the clip and waist my energy each time I am trying to clip in. Anyone have any advice on clipping in nice and smoothly. I know practice makes perfect, but I was just wondering how all of you do it and whats easiest for you guys.
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shiggetyshiva
Jul 21, 2005, 3:06 AM
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Sounds like 2 problems:
- not using rests before getting pumped out too bad
- not having enough practice clipping
Problem #1 may be a result of climbing with tunnel vision, but in any case, making the most out of resting positions on steeper climbing makes it easier to conserve energy for fiddling with gear.
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jerseysundevil
Jul 21, 2005, 3:12 AM
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I understand the whole rest thing and am pretty good with that. My problem is that its taking me like 3 trys to get the rope clipped which is what kills my energy.
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krisp
Jul 21, 2005, 3:14 AM
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I dont think you're gonna get much input on this one besides the obvious. Which you've already stated...Practice. I suck at clipping too, but I'm getting better. Everyone made it look soo easy. The one thing I can say is be careful putting the rope in your mouth. There's a post in Accidents that has some pretty sweet photos of the possible consequences...OUCH!
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4togo
Jul 21, 2005, 3:57 AM
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Maybe I misunderstood, but your post makes it sound like you're just sort of randomly trying to get the rope into the biner. There are actually a couple of specific ways to clip the rope from different positions which are more effective than just fumbling around.
Have someone at your gym show them to you if you haven't seen them already, find out which one works best for you, then practice practice practice. When I first started lead climbing I hung a quickdraw from the rearview mirror of my car and (while stopped at a light, of course) would practice clipping a 2-3 foot length of rope into it.
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sbaclimber
Jul 21, 2005, 4:22 AM
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easy (these are not the only ways to clip, just the ways I clip):
1) If the gate of the carabiner is facing you, pinch the rope between your thumb and index finger, stick your middle finger in the carabiner to hold it steady, and clip.
2) If the gate of the carabiner is facing AWAY from you, pinch the rope between your index and middle finger towards the tips, place those fingers against the gate of the carabiner while wrappping your thumb around the back of the spine, and squeeze to clip. (This way works fine for me when clipping wire-gates, it takes a bit more concentration when it is not a wire-gate)
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curt
Jul 21, 2005, 6:52 AM
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Waste. The word is "waste." :wink:
Curt
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jlc325i
Jul 21, 2005, 11:19 AM
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So wait... When the quickdraw is waste high, clip it to waist less energy? :P
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hammerhead
Jul 21, 2005, 11:50 AM
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This is what helped me; I rigged up some sings/quickdraws and hung them off of the joists in the basement at about head level. Practice clipping like that. Practice clipping with the right and left hand with the gate facing toward you and away from you. Change the height and difficulty level. Practice holding onto something too, just try to mimic what it would be like to clip during climbing. Oh, and try to relax when you clip. For me the biggest battle is in my head.
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flipnfall
Jul 21, 2005, 2:28 PM
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I know some of this wasn't what you were asking, but I felt like I should include the whole package. There are two things you want to practice: (1) avoiding backclipping and (2) clipping in one handed while standing on the ground.
PROPER CLIPPING
If you don't properly clip, the rope runs the risk of opening the gate and unclipping. Make sure you are properly clipping as shown by the image on the LEFT (below)
http://www.thethornbergs.com/...nt-back-clipping.gif
If you back clip (RIGHT IMAGE, above), the rope can unclip during a fall as you can see below
http://www.thethornbergs.com/climbing/unclipping.gif
PRACTICE
I used to practice clipping into a hanging draw while standing on the ground. Usually I tied the rope onto a belt loop in my pants and tied a biner to a branch on a short tree. I'd simply practive clipping in over and over and over. The only way you're going to improve speed of clipping is to practice.
YOUR BELAYER
Make sure your belayer is practicing giving you the slack you need quickly. I have been greatly hindered by slow belayers who don't give me the slack I need fast enough. They need to learn to anticipate when you're going to clip in without your telling them. That requires watching the climber closely. Again, practice is the best thing to improve this technique.
Hope that helps!
GT
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hosh
Jul 21, 2005, 3:52 PM
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Another reason to clip with the draw about waist level...
when you're reaching above your head to clip, you're pulling out about 5 or six feet of rope, making for a pretty interesting fall if you blow your clip. If you just make a few more moves then clip when the draw is about waist level (assuming it's practicle), you don't have to pull as much rope (less fighting rope drag, less wasted energy, more efficient...) and if you blow your clip, you actually won't fall as far since you don't have as much rope out. It also helps to eliminate the chances of z-clipping (you DON'T want to be z-clipped).
Just find a place where you can have a suspended draw and practice clipping it over and over until you get it wired. It might actually help your lead head to take a few whippers in your gym. Tell your belayer that you're going to practice falling and find an easy, somewhat safe route to take a efw whips off of (over hangs work real nice) then climb up, make a few clips, get a bove your last cilp, only a foot or so, take a deep breath, relax, then let go. Maks sure youre belayer is ready to catch you of course. It helped me to realize that the draws will catch me and I don't stress so much when leading now. Hope things go well for you.
hosh.
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tenn_dawg
Jul 21, 2005, 4:14 PM
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I think that quite a few people have this problem at first. Get a hundred or so leads under your belt and you'll work out a way that clipping will work for you.
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flipnfall
Jul 21, 2005, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: Another reason to clip with the draw about waist level...
Although I agree that clipping at the waist is BEST, you must keep in mind that on most routes, the bolt was placed where the climber's best position is eye level. There are many climbs where there's simply not much to hold when you're waist-level to the bolt. If you attempt to clip waist level on most routes, you'll be doing so from less-than-ideal holds for that bolt.
Where you clip is dictated by who bolted the route or how it was bolted. For example, if a climb was hand-bolted (like Syvlan Lake area, S.D. Needles), the best stance for clipping is at eye level because the original route setter needed to be hands-free in order to hammer in the bolt.*
*The downside of this is, of course, long, run-out routes with major deck-out and screamer potential.
GT
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i_climb
Jul 21, 2005, 4:22 PM
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Here's another good link with pictures. And, like others said, just practice clipping your draws as they are hanging from something at home. That way you don't have to struggle with it when you are on lead - you have more important things to worry about then.
http://www.immortal.net.au/...ing/how_to_clip.html
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subtle
Jul 22, 2005, 2:58 AM
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In addition to all of the previous advice, something I found useful was bringing my obligatory purchased quickdraw and 6 feet of rope to the gym, then hanging it from a convenient bolt/beam/chair/person. Go boulder and traverse until you are very pumped out...then go practice all of your standard clipping moves. If you can't be all silky-smooth and uber-efficient, you may as well get some practice forcing your temporarily uncoordinated digits to comply with instructions.
They won't want to, believe me.
AlLEEz. Homard.
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hosh
Jul 22, 2005, 3:33 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Another reason to clip with the draw about waist level... Although I agree that clipping at the waist is BEST, you must keep in mind that on most routes, the bolt was placed where the climber's best position is eye level. There are many climbs where there's simply not much to hold when you're waist-level to the bolt. If you attempt to clip waist level on most routes, you'll be doing so from less-than-ideal holds for that bolt.
agreed. If it's not practical, don't clip at waist level. But it's not always the best idea to clip a draw that's just barely in reach. Perhaps pull another move, find a good stance, then clip.
happy sportin'
P.S. I'm going to be leaving tomorrow evening for "the towers" (for those not from Juneau, i.e. most everyone on this board, see here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Area.php?AreaID=3068)
Sport climbing is fun, but I'd rather be placing cams and hexes!
hosh.
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renohandjams
Jul 26, 2005, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: So wait... When the quickdraw is waste high, clip it to waist less energy? :P |
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pylonhead
Jul 29, 2005, 12:35 AM
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In reply to: when you're reaching above your head to clip, you're pulling out about 5 or six feet of rope, making for a pretty interesting fall if you blow your clip. If you just make a few more moves then clip when the draw is about waist level (assuming it's practicle), you don't have to pull as much rope (less fighting rope drag, less wasted energy, more efficient...) and if you blow your clip, you actually won't fall as far since you don't have as much rope out. It also helps to eliminate the chances of z-clipping (you DON'T want to be z-clipped).
Actually, if you are climbing vertically, you fall the exact same distance. But if you pull out slack, you will end up closer to the ground.
In your example, lets say the bolts are 10 feet apart. Climber climbs up 7', pulls up 6' of rope to reach the bolt 3' above him. If he falls, he falls 7' to the bolt, then 13 more feet for all the rope out = 20' fall, climber is 13' below last bolt.
2nd climber climbs up 10', bolt is at her waist. If she falls, she falls 10' to the bolt, then 10 more fee for the rope out = 20' fall, climber is 10' below the last bolt.
So clip from the best stance, and be careful if you might deck...
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renohandjams
Jul 29, 2005, 12:48 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to make the animation it helps.
I used to practice when I was watching TV with my rope and quick draws, but it's really annoying if someone else is watching TV with you.
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robdotcalm
Jul 29, 2005, 10:16 PM
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Flippenall:
A praiseworthy contribution.
Rob.calm
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