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krisp
Aug 11, 2005, 4:28 PM
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So here's the deal. I'm looking for some route suggestions. jlight and I are looking for a upper 4th class or lower 5th class climb to a 14'er or high peak. We were thinking about the knife ridge on capitol, but my partner is looking for something with some more technical climbing. The other routes look a little too hairy. I have very little Alpine experience, so the 4th class is pretty good for me, but if my partner (who does have more experience) is willing to try something a little harder, I'm willing to follow. We'd like to stay in the Aspen area if possible, but will travel if the goods are worth it. We can leave the night before to get to the trailhead, but we need to finish in one day. Probably nothing over 5.5. Also, a 14'er would be preffered, but if you know of some other good high alpine routes, please throw 'em out there. So, it should be an interesting weekend. We'll let you know how it turns out! :D
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zozo
Aug 11, 2005, 4:40 PM
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Wetterhorn has a GREAT 4th class finish on it. I had virtually no 14'er experience when I did it.
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scrappydoo
Aug 11, 2005, 4:55 PM
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Resource: http://14erworld.com
And if they suggest the Inwood Arete (5.4) up the North side of Quandary, FOR GOD'S SAKE DO NOT do it! It's truly one of the most horrible, unaesthetic, dangerous and ugly choss piles of a climb ever.
Worst of all, you top out (near the summit) right into the 100+ cattle heard of Oklahomans and Iowans (all on their cell phones: "Hey honey! Guess where I am...!") all plodding up to or down from the standard route and asking you inane questions like "do you need ropes for this (the standard, not-even-Class 2) route?" and statements like "Yeah, I used to climb alot... but my Gym membership expired after I got my new job and I just never renewed it."
Avoid Quandary at all costs-- save it for winter.
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micronut
Aug 11, 2005, 5:59 PM
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i'd suggest the mt. wilson-el diente traverse. it's not tech., but pretty much as classic as it gets. also in the area;
Lizard Head, loose 5.7, not 14,000, but who cares? one of the hardest alpine summits in colorado.
or come to the Range of Light and take your choice..................
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atg200
Aug 11, 2005, 6:30 PM
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the inwood arete isn't that bad. none of the 5th class parts are loose if you are careful when route finding.
i thought lizard head was hard for the grade at 5.8, but it is pretty classic in a chosspile sort of way.
no colorado alpine climbs are all that good outside of rmnp, the crestones, and the indian peaks to a lesser degree. the sierras, tetons, wind rivers, etc have much better rock.
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pika
Aug 11, 2005, 7:57 PM
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It's not a 14'er, but close -- Vestal peak in the Weimenuche outside of Silverton is classic. The Wham Ridge is mostly exposed 4th class with some 5th class, but there are variations on the face to 5.8. Check out "Colorado's High Thirteeners."
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krisp
Aug 11, 2005, 8:44 PM
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bump
Thanks for the input folks!
Anybody else have any ideas? :D
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helmut
Aug 11, 2005, 8:47 PM
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Think you'll need to get out of the Aspen area, the rock in the Elks is horrific at best for rock climbing.
Go to the San Juans and do the Wham Ridge, it was my first alpine climb and I too highly recommend it, great rock. It's most likely an overnighter though, just so you know. Alpine rock climbing in Colorado is concentrated to certain areas, like someone mentioned above.
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agrauch
Aug 11, 2005, 8:57 PM
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How about the Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata. It's supposed to be 4th to easy 5th class if you stay on the ridge crest. You can do it via a 3rd class route if the crest proves to be too spicy. And it's just over Independence Pass, not too far from Aspen.
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krisp
Aug 11, 2005, 9:16 PM
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In reply to: How about the Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata. It's supposed to be 4th to easy 5th class if you stay on the ridge crest. You can do it via a 3rd class route if the crest proves to be too spicy. And it's just over Independence Pass, not too far from Aspen.
That one's on my tick list for the summer, but it's not technical enough for what we're looking for. We'd like some opportunities to place some pro in an alpine environment.
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iceisnice
Aug 11, 2005, 11:26 PM
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the ellingwood arete on crestone needle is pretty good. they rate it at 5.9 but it was much easier than that. the crux pitch is 5.9, the rest of the arete is mid 5th class. beautiful area too. as agrauch stated above, the ellingwood ridge is pretty cool too. yeah, you won't need pro or a rope, but its some cool exposure and good few hours of technical scrambling. a good car to car route. we also did the ellingwood arete car to car, BUT, it was a long day and we soloed the entire route and didn't mess around with gear and a rope. also, a lot of people seem to get messed up on the descent. not sure why, we thought it was pretty straight forward.
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ambler
Aug 11, 2005, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: the ellingwood arete on crestone needle is pretty good. they rate it at 5.9 but it was much easier than that.
ClimbingBoulder.com
and also:
NAclassics.com
The crux is short, but as with any alpine route, you'd want to be efficient.
The best selection of one-day, easy but reasonably solid Colorado alpine rock is found in the Front Range. These include 14ers Pikes, Evans and Longs, plus many more and often better choices below 14,000 feet.
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krisp
Aug 12, 2005, 5:04 PM
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Thanks again to everyone for all the great ideas, trip reports, links, etc. Now I have too many options :D . I think we settled on Capitol peak after all. Proximity was an issue. Please continue to post suggestions for alpine routes in Colorado. I'm gonna bump the thread a couple more times. Then I'll print it all out and get started tickin' the list!
ps. I dont care what anybody says, RC.com kicks ass. Everyone here is really great, even the grumpy guys.
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mother_sheep
Aug 12, 2005, 5:29 PM
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Oh yeah! Crestone Needle is great. I can't even begin to tell you how lost I got on Inwood Arete on Quandary though! The route we were on was falling apart on us to the touch. One of the scariest climbs yet do to the nature of the rock. We were very off route tho. I'm sure the real deal isn't as much of a pill! I think your route finding skills should be better than mine if you're gonna do that one.
If you're not stuck on the 14er thing, drop down a couple of thousand feet and partake in the summit of Lone Eagle Peak. Ascend via the North Face (5.7) and descend via solo flight (4th class). One of the most fun routes I've done yet. . .but yeah, it's not a 14er. Note that the North Face is rated 5.7 but only the upper pitch or 2 (I can't remember) is 5.7. The rest of the route ranges from 3rd class to about 5.5. Have fun!
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thorne
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Aug 12, 2005, 5:58 PM
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Ellingwood Arete on Crestone is nice. The traverse between the two peaks is a kick in the pants. It's all class 3-4 w/ one rappell. It's big time fun and SOLID.
In contrast, the Wilson-El Diente traverse is all big loose rocks. The risk of falling was nothing compared to the possibility of getting pounded in a self-started rock slide.
Someone mentioned Wham Ridge. That's one I always wanted to do.
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angelaa
Aug 12, 2005, 6:25 PM
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just looked up some info on Lone Eagle Peak . . . that's one I gotta' do!
It's going on my wish list for next year! :D
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krisp
Aug 12, 2005, 6:27 PM
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In reply to: Oh yeah! Crestone Needle is great. I can't even begin to tell you how lost I got on Inwood Arete on Quandary though! The route we were on was falling apart on us to the touch. One of the scariest climbs yet do to the nature of the rock. We were very off route tho. I'm sure the real deal isn't as much of a pill! I think your route finding skills should be better than mine if you're gonna do that one. If you're not stuck on the 14er thing, drop down a couple of thousand feet and partake in the summit of Lone Eagle Peak. Ascend via the North Face (5.7) and descend via solo flight (4th class). One of the most fun routes I've done yet. . .but yeah, it's not a 14er. Note that the North Face is rated 5.7 but only the upper pitch or 2 (I can't remember) is 5.7. The rest of the route ranges from 3rd class to about 5.5. Have fun!
Definately not stuck on the 14'ers. That was just for this weekend. Maybe I'll change the thread title. Thanks, your not the first one to say Lone Eagle was one of their favorites. Definately going to the top 5 on the list.
Also, if anyone wants to repeat one their favorites, its always nice to go with someone who's been there. Any takers?
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krisp
Aug 12, 2005, 9:01 PM
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speed control
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