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shire
Aug 20, 2005, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2004
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last night i was hanging on the hangboards smalles crimps and i felt a pull in my right hand ring finger, like pulling silly putty, and it started to hurt. i have decided to not climb for a time and was wondering how long it took others of you to recover from similar incidents, and how long you recommend not climbing in order to fuel a recovery.
thank you
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tradrenn
Aug 20, 2005, 6:46 PM
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When that happend to me, I took 2 weeks of and try to come back slowly to climbing. To make story short I think it took me about 5 months too come back to previous level of climbing in the gym. The pain lasted for 3 months.
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captain_coopdaddy
Aug 20, 2005, 10:34 PM
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Do not climb until your injury stops hurting, then wait a little bit longer just to make sure it is healed. When you start climbing again start on easy terrain on big holds and tape the injury. Gradually increase your climbing and stop and rest right away if it hurts. I recently just started climbing again after a string of injuries that lasted over a year including an injured A2 pulley to my right middle finger, pulled tendon on my left ring finger, and then sore elbows( I initially thought it was epicondylsis, but I think it was just growing pains). If it hurts stop and rest.
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schnoz
Aug 20, 2005, 11:57 PM
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I injured my left ring finger around the beginning of July. It's still bothering me a little now, but it's not bad unless I get on crimpy stuff. Then it hurts. Otherwise it doesn't.
That said, I have read a lot of "don't climb until it stops hurting". This is great advice. The problem is I've learnt that it doesn't hurt anymore during day to day stuff and while on big slopers and jugs, etc. It does hurt on small crimps. Does this still classify it as hurting and I shouldn't be climbing? Or just that I should be taking it easy still and not trying what I was climbing before the injury?
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mrsuicide
Aug 21, 2005, 1:01 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2004
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took me about 4 weeks to get back on easy easy rock, probably took 2.5 months to get back to decent.
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andrewbanandrew
Aug 21, 2005, 1:46 AM
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All current medical research says:
-For a strain, take 6 weeks off or time off until there is no pain at all (whichever comes first). Climb easy for another 2-4 weeks.
-For a partial tear or rupture, immobilize the finger for 10 days, take 6-8 weeks off, or time off until there is no pain at all.
-For complete tears, immobilize the finger for 14 days, take 3 months off.
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sd
Aug 21, 2005, 2:43 AM
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Registered: Feb 29, 2004
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10 days 14 hours 48 minutes and 19 seconds
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phaedrus
Aug 21, 2005, 4:12 AM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Injuries & Accidents.
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