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fargoan
Sep 22, 2005, 9:07 PM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 110
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hey all,
looking for info from anyone who's climbed the route. it looks like it's possible to link pitches 1 & 2 as well as 3 & 4 with a 60 or 70m rope. is this something that is feasible or does the route/bolts wander too much?
also, is it worth it to go to the top?
thanks--
jonathan
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grayhghost
Sep 22, 2005, 9:23 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 444
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We did not link 1+2 but it may be possible if you use runners on the bolts at the top of pitch one, and then runner the next 4 pieces.
pitch 3 makes a big arch up and left, then pitch 4 goes straight up. So, again you could runner everthing on pitch 3 and probably get away with it.
The best combination is pitch 5 (the .11c crux) and pitch 6 (45 feet straight up). Back clean as many bolts as you can on pitch 5 (it is a bolt ladder) then bring a .5 and .75 camalot for the linking into pitch 6. This combo makes a rad 200 foot pitch and eliminates an ugly hanging belay. You will need 20 draws for this link. The top pitches are not as stellar as the headwall but I think it is totaly worth it to top out. The hike down is spectacular.
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fargoan
Sep 23, 2005, 2:07 AM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 110
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excellent. thanks for the tips, grayhghost. i've stared up at this climb a handful of times, and can't wait to get up into it next weekend.
jonathan
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boltdude
Sep 23, 2005, 2:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
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You can't link 3 & 4 even with a 70, it's too long (250' or so).
You can link 1 & 2 with some long draws and maybe skipping a bolt or pro placement.
The 5 & 6 link is the most obvious (crux pitch and next pitch) and definitely the classic way of doing it, although like grayhghost said you'll need to skip/backclean some bolts unless you bring 20 draws. It will also avoid the hanging belay on top of the crux pitch in favor of a much nicer ledge.
Pitch 8 is so traversing that it would mess up trying to link either 7/8 or 8/9.
If you plan on rapping, you can rap pitches 5-9 with one 60, as long as you are very careful on the raps - but that way you can leave the second rope at the base of the crux.
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