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phaedrus
Oct 17, 2005, 7:27 PM
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Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. The husband-and-wife team each led or followed every pitch free during four days of climbing, after working on the route during the past several weeks. Their ascent mark only the second and third free ascent of the Nose since Lynn Hill's first free ascent in 1993 and again in 1998.
For more details: http://climbing.com/news/thenosefree/
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phaedrus
Oct 17, 2005, 7:29 PM
Post #27 of 47
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Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. The husband-and-wife team each led or followed every pitch free during four days of climbing, after working on the route during the past several weeks. Their ascent mark only the second and third free ascent of the Nose since Lynn Hill's first free ascent in 1993 and again in 1998.
For more details: http://climbing.com/news/thenosefree/
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dynosore
Oct 17, 2005, 7:36 PM
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How long till someone onsights it?
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quiteatingmysteak
Oct 17, 2005, 7:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: And people wonder why old guys piss and moan... So either you're a young guy or a geezer with a poor knowledge of history. Too much money involved these days to merely take a climber's word on accomplishments or events. Actually I'm a geezer with an excellent grasp on the history - you're second comment is the unstated obvious behind my comment. And attitudes like this are precisely why climbing has becoming a Six Flags activity with [safe] stage shows for all ages. Trust me, innuendo from Werner is 'the word' to every gear manufacturer and sponsor on Earth. Again, and people wonder why old guys piss and moan...
Maybe I have been trolling forums too much, but all I hear is "Me Me Me Me Me Me. Me Me? MEMEMEME!!!!!!11one!!! .... Me is tough."
subject at hand - Caldwell in the (feb? march?) issue of Climbing (in his article about freeing the dihedral wall) stated wanting to take a look at freeing all routes on El Cap. If he was looking to do this one, it wouldnt surprise me. I asked him at a seminar on his thoughts as well when he was visiting an REI in San Deigo if he planned on freeing more El Cap routes and he said he wanted a break, so i dunno. Would be cool tho, the two of them are the go to pair for groundbreaking stuff.
*insert* AND BTW I CLIMB 5.10 RUNOUT PITCHES OF REAL 5.10 WITH NOTHING BUT A ROPE UP MY ASS AND HAM SANDWICHES SO MY ARGUMENT IS VALID!!!! (hate having to do that, but hey, i want people to listen to me and this seems to be the best way to garner attention ;D Love ya)
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gunksgoer
Oct 17, 2005, 8:58 PM
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Ya know it would be really funny if that guy on ST was just trolling. If so, I think its safe to say its the biggest troll in climbing history.
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nthusiastj
Oct 17, 2005, 10:00 PM
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So, Apparrently the day before this was done my partner and I were laying in the meadow watching this. I was specifically looking for someone freeing something and could find noone. We saw the team on New Dawn take the fall and shoot flares. I just never spotted the Caldwells.
It would have been cool to witness. Oh well, I guess I need better binoculars!
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glowering
Oct 17, 2005, 10:04 PM
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Some earlier photos from Hans.
http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/BnTNose.html
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healyje
Oct 17, 2005, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: Maybe I have been trolling forums too much, but all I hear is "Me Me Me Me Me Me. Me Me? MEMEMEME!!!!!!11one!!! .... Me is tough."
"climbing 2.5 years, 5 months outside, regret not learning outside! "
One would assume that regret is rooted in something; extrapolate on that for a few more years and you'll start having a better grasp on the issues involved and the essential roles of taking responsibility for yourself and managing your own risks in the history of climbing...
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fracture
Oct 18, 2005, 2:08 AM
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In reply to: kudos to them. and if they both freed it (and from the ST thread they did), that makes it 2 women and 1 man to free the nose.
2 women and 2 men, actually...
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Oct 18, 2005, 2:39 AM
Post #35 of 47
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this is the 3rd time ive heard about it so i am guessing that it is legit
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climbingnurse
Oct 18, 2005, 3:08 AM
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Just to recap: We now have it from Werner Braun, Link Else, and Climbing magazine that this actually happened. If you don't believe it at this point... You probably don't know who Link or Werner are.
That's fecking awesome! Quite the thing to pull off and by two really rad people to boot!
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ryanb
Oct 18, 2005, 4:19 AM
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What about that guy Oliver Moon?
[quote=gunksgoer]Ya know it would be really funny if that guy on ST was just trolling. If so, I think its safe to say its the biggest troll in climbing history.
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baigot
Oct 18, 2005, 9:19 AM
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back to the rodden/caldwell ascent...
They preplaced gear? there´s a huge difference...if they worked the route, there´s a better sport acomplisment in the ´93 Hill ascent (a woman, entire route leading).
If they put gear on lead...there´s, in fact, a great climbing/mountaineering acomplisment...
some of us care about ethics...sorry...
Vicente.
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rcnc21
Oct 18, 2005, 12:43 PM
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My understanding is that they swapped leads and either led (placing gear not preplaced) each pitch or followed free rather than the second jumaring. According to the "press release" :wink: Tommy led the changing corners pitches and Beth led the Great Roof.
According to the same thread over on Supertopo it looks like Tommy is still working the route in order to attempt a free in day send a la Linn Hill's great '93 (?) accomplishment. I hope he can pull it off.
Regardless, my understanding is that these two sent the route free as a team in outstanding style and deserve a congrats. These two are pushing the limits of Big Wall free climbing and polishing of routes tht I'd be happy to second on jumars one day.
On a slightly unrelated note, I had heard something about Tommy going up to Baffin Island to climb a big wall free..apparently he was unsing cash from a Mugs Stump grant. anyone know anything about this trip, if he went, and what happened?
-Mike
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thinman13
Oct 18, 2005, 5:09 PM
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If you count Tommy and Beth's free ascent of the Nose as legit (which it most certainly is), then you must count Scott Burke's ascent as well. That's because we're counting both pitches led and followed, and Scott Burke led all pitches except for the Great Roof. So, that makes 2 successful men and 2 successful women to free climb the Nose. The stylistic jump that Lynn Hill made was to free the thing in one push in one day, leading all the pitches. It looks like Tommy just did that in something ridiculous like 12 hours (Oct. 17th), with Beth selflessly jumarring.
However, it is interesting to note that no one has ever freed the Nose with No Falls. Lynn fell twice on the Changing Corners pitch in her day push, and Tommy also fell once, also on the Changing Corners pitch in his day push. That leaves the door open for some guy or girl to do the first "true" redpoint of the Nose??
I have to say that for myself and nearly everyone else I've spoken to, Tommy and Lynn's ascents were stylisticly pure enough!!! But, it would be nice to make it up the Big Stone free without falling once, wouldn't it?
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thisflash
Oct 18, 2005, 9:45 PM
Post #42 of 47
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In reply to: If you count Tommy and Beth's free ascent of the Nose as legit (which it most certainly is), then you must count Scott Burke's ascent as well. That's because we're counting both pitches led and followed, and Scott Burke led all pitches except for the Great Roof.
I agree. Scott Burke deserves more recognition for his ascent.
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crshbrn84
Oct 18, 2005, 10:09 PM
Post #43 of 47
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Thats amazing, he did it in 12 hours. Kudos Tommy.
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enjoimx
Oct 19, 2005, 3:25 AM
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Second ascent Nose free in a day...what more could a person ask for in life? :lol: Congratulations!
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lancebrock
Oct 21, 2005, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: However, it is interesting to note that no one has ever freed the Nose with No Falls. Lynn fell twice on the Changing Corners pitch in her day push, and Tommy also fell once, also on the Changing Corners pitch in his day push. That leaves the door open for some guy or girl to do the first "true" redpoint of the Nose??
i think they were pointing out he fell once to show he only had to retry one pitch. after he fell on the changing corner pitch, i am pretty sure he lowered to the belay, pulled the rope and sent it. lynn did the same thing. they had to give the great roof and changing corners a couple go's each when they were swapping leads. it doesnt mean they didnt send the route free. it means it took a couple tries to send those pitches.
so, they all (lynn, tommy, beth) redpointed it. scott didnt redpoint since one pitch was on TR, but still his accomplishment is impressive.
i am just pointing this out as clarification, not that i can send any of it.
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stickclipper
Oct 21, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #46 of 47
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In reply to: In reply to: However, it is interesting to note that no one has ever freed the Nose with No Falls. Lynn fell twice on the Changing Corners pitch in her day push, and Tommy also fell once, also on the Changing Corners pitch in his day push. That leaves the door open for some guy or girl to do the first "true" redpoint of the Nose?? i think they were pointing out he fell once to show he only had to retry one pitch. after he fell on the changing corner pitch, i am pretty sure he lowered to the belay, pulled the rope and sent it. lynn did the same thing. they had to give the great roof and changing corners a couple go's each when they were swapping leads. it doesnt mean they didnt send the route free. it means it took a couple tries to send those pitches. so, they all (lynn, tommy, beth) redpointed it. scott didnt redpoint since one pitch was on TR, but still his accomplishment is impressive. i am just pointing this out as clarification, not that i can send any of it.
I believe that Thin Man meant, simply, that a "true" redpoint (in a super-strict sense, not the typically accepted definition of the climbing world) would be to free-climb the Nose from bottom to top without a fall. Falling and reclimbing the pitch is accepted because it would be impossibly demanding to free big walls otherwise... but the fall is a small blemish.
There are a few out there who adhere to this definition. I'm not positive, but I believe that Beat Kammerlander, for one, only claims a redpoint of his extreme multi-pitch free routes after he has climbed each pitch consecutively, without falling.
This makes sense if you think of the route in a holistic sense, rather than a collection of individual pitches.
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lancebrock
Oct 23, 2005, 6:27 PM
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In reply to: I believe that Thin Man meant, simply, that a "true" redpoint (in a super-strict sense, not the typically accepted definition of the climbing world) would be to free-climb the Nose from bottom to top without a fall.
i see your point but disagree. they freed the nose. they redpointed each pitch. if you want to have a "consecutive redpoint first free ascent" then maybe you need a new term. at that point, i think you would need a 3000 foot rope so you never hung at a belay. sounds like a bunch of silly nit-picking to me.
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