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Rappel anchor
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kjclimber


Aug 4, 2002, 2:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2002
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Rappel anchor
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What is the best way to anchor yourself in from a top rope climb in a gym. Is a daisy chain ok. I've done a lot of tree climbing and have done numerous rappels from them, but usually anchored by my flipline.

Thanks
kjclimber


timmyclimber


Aug 4, 2002, 2:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
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Rappel anchor [In reply to]
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First of all, doesnt the gym already have ropes/anchors already set?? ive never seen a gym without them. And if theres not, insurance or safety or some shitty rules makes it so that they can only use the gyms ropes and they have to set them up. But if what youre saying is right and you have to set up your own, theres usually bolts, bars/raftors, or clips at the top of the wall to anchor to. but have fumn getting there without a line.


lostangel


Aug 4, 2002, 2:45 PM
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that is kinda wierd that a gym wouldnt have ropes already set up unless he is talking about sport..


kjclimber


Aug 4, 2002, 2:52 PM
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i've already climbing the route, top rope, need to anchor while i'm up there...question is from the anchor into the wall, should i use a daisy chain or something else????


hollyclimber


Aug 4, 2002, 4:38 PM
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I think the answer is, it doesn't matter. If for some reason you want to clip in, clip in with whatever. You can clip yourself to a bolt with a quickdraw.

When climbing in the gym, if you need to do something like go hands free to fix your shoes, just have your belayer take you and hold you tight.

If you are top-roping, you won't need to set a rappel, right? Just have your partner lower you. This is what sport climbing is all about. When I am out at the crag with friends who climb more alpine then sport, they usually want to rap. I encourage them to get into the genre of the day and lower.

So, clip in at the gym with whatever you want. The only time I have ever clipped into anything at the gym is when climbing something overhanging and needing a rest, I clipped the preplaced quickdraws for leading into my harness to keep my into the wall.


kjclimber


Aug 4, 2002, 4:47 PM
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I want to rappel, not be lowered or climb down. Just need something to clip into while I set the line while I'm off belay...



jman


Aug 4, 2002, 5:15 PM
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If you want to rapel off of the top of a gym lead route, to pratice for an outdoor sport lead, you better check with the gym before you try it. That's something that would get you kicked out of a gym if you don't have permission.

What I use to tie myself into anchors is either a daisy chain or sewn runners, both with locking carabiners.


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