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greenketch
Nov 11, 2005, 4:45 PM
Post #51 of 56
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I'll throw in another vote for Rufas's advice. Word on his balance comments. Pay particular attention to his comment about smooth transfer of weight. Watch a good slab climber and they have a constant subtle back and forth motion. When you are learning think of the process. 1)place a foot. 2) transfer your weight nice and smooth 3) place your other foot 4) transfer your weight nice and smooth repeat all the way to the top.
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robdotcalm
Nov 11, 2005, 5:31 PM
Post #52 of 56
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The issue of helmets has been debated often enough that I’m hesitant to bring it up, but since this a new climber asking about slab, it’s appropriate. On relatively low angle slab, even if you do everything correct with respect to rope management and body positioning, it’s easy to fall in such a way that foot contact with the rock will tip you over. Because of this, I strongly recommend wearing a helmet while climbing slab.
One of the previous posters recommended pushing off from the rock when falling to avoid scrapes. No question about pushing off on a steep or overhanging wall or indoors, but it’s not an automatic call on a slab. The danger is that pushing off will result in tipping over. Also, taking some scraping on the hands to reduce the intensity of the fall may be the safest way to go. There are no general rules here. Each situation has to be judged considering such things as the angle of the wall, the roughness of the rock, and the length of the fall.
In 1993, I was at the scene of a fatal accident involving a fall on a slab. As a result, I’m rather cautious on this type of climbing.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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rufusandcompany
Nov 11, 2005, 5:43 PM
Post #53 of 56
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Registered: Jul 4, 2005
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In reply to: The issue of helmets has been debated often enough that I’m hesitant to bring it up, but since this a new climber asking about slab, it’s appropriate. On relatively low angle slab, even if you do everything correct with respect to rope management and body positioning, it’s easy to fall in such a way that foot contact with the rock will tip you over. Because of this, I strongly recommend wearing a helmet while climbing slab. One of the previous posters recommended pushing off from the rock when falling to avoid scrapes. No question about pushing off on a steep or overhanging wall or indoors, but it’s not an automatic call on a slab. The danger is that pushing off will result in tipping over. Also, taking some scraping on the hands to reduce the intensity of the fall may be the safest way to go. There are no general rules here. Each situation has to be judged considering such things as the angle of the wall, the roughness of the rock, and the length of the fall. In 1993, I was at the scene of a fatal accident involving a fall on a slab. As a result, I’m rather cautious on this type of climbing. Cheers, Rob.calm
Your advice should be taken seriously, as the consequences of slab fall can be serious. As for pushing away from the slab or not, I would say that it should be evaluated when looking at the slab. The problem with skidding down a slab is that the amount of friction can change on a moment's notice, grabbing your foot and tossing you head over heels. This is where the fall becomes very dangerous.
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hawthorne5630
Nov 11, 2005, 9:21 PM
Post #54 of 56
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Don't forget, climbing shoe rubber is a REAL (not ideal) material, and all materials have a finite strength, that is they are not unbreakable. As the contact area of the shoe-on-rock decreases, the stress increases. When the stress exceeds the strength of the rubber it will fail and you will most likely fall. While the actual failure mechanism is probably very complex it is also very real. Take a look at the bottom of your shoes around the area where your big toe is. SO, slipping on a slab climb may not only be due to exceeding the friction force, but also due to exceeding the strength of the rubber.
Mark
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handtraverse
Nov 12, 2005, 2:49 AM
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rufusandcompany wrote:In reply to: Moreover, if Hand tries to turn this into an exercise in physics, he'll be spending most of his time hanging in his harness.
Rufus, I enjoy very much to hear all apects of a subject, in this case slabbing. If the physics of slabbing is addressed, I appreciate it only because of the greater knowledge and awareness it produces.
HOWEVER, when it comes to the application of what I learned, the basics is what I apply because that's what's most important to me at the time. So. in a manner of speaking, a knowledge of fine details broadens my understanding...personally, I find it helpful.
By the way, I went to a slab today and applied what YOU said. Yes YOU RUFUS!
I paid attention to my heel at various points of the slab I was on, I applied the idea of staying light on my feet, and moving slowly, keeping my body weight over the leg doing the work, shifting my weight calmly from one leg to the other, using my hands for balance not for pulling up. And you know what? It all worked! it was a great experience, albeit, the slab was probably only a 60 degree pitch, but it was good enough to practice on and it was definately a victory for me.
http://www.fauxandwood.com/lynnandtom1.JPG
Handtraverse
____________________________________________
"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
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rufusandcompany
Nov 12, 2005, 2:59 AM
Post #56 of 56
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In reply to: rufusandcompany wrote:In reply to: Moreover, if Hand tries to turn this into an exercise in physics, he'll be spending most of his time hanging in his harness. Rufus, I enjoy very much to hear all apects of a subject, in this case slabbing. If the physics of slabbing is addressed, I appreciate it only because of the greater knowledge and awareness it produces. HOWEVER, when it comes to the application of what I learned, the basics is what I apply because that's what's most important to me at the time. So. in a manner of speaking, a knowledge of fine details broadens my understanding...personally, I find it helpful. By the way, I went to a slab today and applied what YOU said. Yes YOU RUFUS! I paid attention to my heel at various points of the slab I was on, I applied the idea of staying light on my feet, and moving slowly, keeping my body weight over the leg doing the work, shifting my weight calmly from one leg to the other, using my hands for balance not for pulling up. And you know what? It all worked! it was a great experience, albeit, the slab was probably only a 60 degree pitch, but it was good enough to practice on and it was definately a victory for me. http://www.fauxandwood.com/lynnandtom1.JPG Handtraverse ____________________________________________ "Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner
Congrats, hand. I'm glad that the advice worked out for you. To your credit, your success means that you correctly applied the techniques that I suggested. Keep fine tuning them on different slabs, and you'll have it down in no time.
Cheers,
KC
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