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ajkclay
Nov 16, 2005, 2:51 AM
Post #26 of 40
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someone once advised using just a petzl tibloc and screwgate for top rope soloing.
A fall on his setup had a real potential to strip the sheath... if it had caught the fall that is.
Adam
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tradrenn
Nov 16, 2005, 3:02 AM
Post #27 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: Q. How often do you retire rope ? A. Every time it breaks. Do you mean you don't retire your rope when it breaks? :wink:
Are you crazy ? :shock: Don't you know how expensive the ropes are ? :shock:
You pay for one rope and when it breakes you will have 2 ropes.
:D It doesn't get any better then that. :D
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jimdavis
Nov 16, 2005, 3:19 AM
Post #28 of 40
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In reply to: sport climbing is neither
What? That is good advice though!
Curts belay thread should be in here in though.
Cheers,
Jim
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dudemanbu
Nov 16, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #29 of 40
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"When the leader falls, jump backwards to provide a dynamic belay, taking out the extra slack. "
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curt
Nov 16, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #30 of 40
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In reply to: Curt's foot belay thread.
That was a work of genius, dude. :wink:
Curt
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12volt_man
Nov 16, 2005, 3:48 AM
Post #31 of 40
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Tough question but I'm sure the answer had something to do with "What's the best shoe.." 8^)
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octarine
Nov 16, 2005, 3:49 AM
Post #32 of 40
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I pee a little when I think about looking down and seeing my belayer opening his belay 'biner.
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 16, 2005, 5:09 AM
Post #33 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: Curt's foot belay thread. That was a work of genius, dude. :wink: Curt
Indeed. Not even Natural Selection could cleanse the ranks like that 1 thread.
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litleclimberchick
Nov 16, 2005, 5:34 AM
Post #34 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Curt's foot belay thread. That was a work of genius, dude. :wink: Curt Indeed. Not even Natural Selection could cleanse the ranks like that 1 thread.
you've got my attention...what was this thread titled...i need to read it!
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crankingclimber
Nov 16, 2005, 5:53 AM
Post #35 of 40
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I agree, I want to read the foot belay thread! I ran a basic search, but didn't find it, and don't at the moment have time to fish deeper. Anyone know where it is offhand?
Will
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 16, 2005, 6:03 AM
Post #36 of 40
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edited just because
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jimdavis
Nov 16, 2005, 6:03 AM
Post #37 of 40
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In reply to: I agree, I want to read the foot belay thread! I ran a basic search, but didn't find it, and don't at the moment have time to fish deeper. Anyone know where it is offhand? Will
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...&topic_view=&start=0
You can thank me later. You should get a prize if you make it through all 23 pages...that, or a smack to the back of the head for wasting that much time.
Cheers,
Jim
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jimdavis
Nov 16, 2005, 6:08 AM
Post #38 of 40
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In reply to: "When the leader falls, jump backwards to provide a dynamic belay, taking out the extra slack. "
When I've got a 30'+ fall I'm looking at...my belayer better be ready to start runnin' if I come off.
That's standard practice at ....Looking Glass...I think, could be wrong. Any who, some big slab site down south with 40' between bolts at times. I hear there are paths back into the woods that go for 20' feet or so, for when the belayer has to take off running. Sketch!
Cheers,
Jim
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tim
Nov 16, 2005, 6:51 AM
Post #39 of 40
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In reply to: In reply to: "When the leader falls, jump backwards to provide a dynamic belay, taking out the extra slack. " When I've got a 30'+ fall I'm looking at...my belayer better be ready to start runnin' if I come off. That's standard practice at ....Looking Glass...I think, could be wrong. Any who, some big slab site down south with 40' between bolts at times. I hear there are paths back into the woods that go for 20' feet or so, for when the belayer has to take off running. Sketch!
Might be some slabs like that at the Glass (Prey, perhaps?) but it's Stone Mountain that's really well known for the running belay. Climbs like Tempest in a Teacup and Yankee Go Home are more than a bit scary (and rad). There used to be a lot of old pop-hanger bolts on Stone, which wouldn't accept fatter ''modern'' biners, which was of course even more fun for a frightened leader. Oh look, the first bolt in 80'! Oh look, none of my biners will fit the hole in the hanger! $#!@...
I've always heard Whitesides and Big Green described as much more frightening than Stone, but never made it down there. The Glass has too much rad climbing on the north side to go much further, especially since I was coming from DC on those trips.
There are some climbs at the Needles and elsewhere in the Southern Sierra that strongly reminded me of Stone, as well. It's never very comforting to look down and see your belayer getting ready to take off sprinting, even if you are already aware that your protection is dogshit.
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addiroids
Nov 16, 2005, 6:55 AM
Post #40 of 40
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A body belay is not a "real" belay.
Then why is it in the AMGA required ways (non-mechanical) of being able to belay?
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