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yarddarts
Aug 23, 2001, 5:01 AM
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dreamtime
V15 (only one)
fred nicole got 1st ascent
chris sharma got 2nd
thats the only 2 that have
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manboy
Aug 23, 2001, 5:42 AM
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[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-10-05 21:51 ]
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compclimber
Aug 23, 2001, 7:01 AM
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Steve you are right it was at about ten o clock at night by the light of lanterns.
And it was Zangerl not Sharma
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compclimber
Aug 25, 2001, 4:42 PM
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It is in Cresciano Switzerland, I think it translates to about 5.15b/c
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iclimb512s
Aug 26, 2001, 2:07 AM
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no, 5.15 is harder than 5.15. ya, sharma never did it
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andy_lemon
Sep 11, 2001, 10:50 PM
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I thought Francois Legrand put up a V15 somewhere? I know that Dave Grahm had the second accent of a V14 and then he added two or three more moves to it... I wish I had these names, I'm sorry, it is all running together.
But to this day the hardest "route" is Sharma's 5.15a. Even though V15 equals such and such alot harder than 5.15a it is still not a pitch long...
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kriso9tails
Sep 11, 2001, 11:07 PM
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The V scale doesn't translate into the 5. scale. V15 isn't necissarily harder than 5.15, just in the comparible aspects, the aspects on the V15 will be harder than those same aspects on the 5.15? But the comparable aspects do not include all of the factors that contribute to the full difficulty. (That didn't really make sense).
How many attempts did it take them to send 'dreamtime.' (vague answers will do eg. a couple, afew, alot etc.)
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matt
Sep 11, 2001, 11:43 PM
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Take a look at this link for a relatively accurate way to translate the two scales.
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compclimber
Sep 12, 2001, 12:39 AM
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Sharma's "Realization" is the worlds hardest route....but Nicole's "Dreamtime" is the worlds hardest problem.
"Realization" has alot of medium graded moves(well at leats for sharma)to a boulder problem type crux that is around V11.
"Dreamtime" is 20 or so really hard moves to a top out.
The two are totally out of context and cant really be compared due to their technicalities.
Bottom line "Dreamtime" = worlds hardest boulder problem......"Realization" = the worlds hardest route.
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andy_lemon
Sep 12, 2001, 9:07 PM
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So... you must be agreeing with me since you said the same things I did???
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iclimb512s
Sep 14, 2001, 8:35 PM
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A V15 is so much harder than a 5.15. i think someone told me that i V7 or V8 is equivilent to a 5.15
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iclimb512s
Sep 14, 2001, 8:43 PM
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realization is not the world hardest route. i believe biography with the biography exstension is a 5.15a. what is realization??
GRANT
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rck_climber
Sep 14, 2001, 8:46 PM
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Realization IS the extension of Biographie.
And, no, a V7 is not even close to a 5.15. Check the link that someone posted above, to find a (very) rough way to equate the two systems.
Just understand that they'll never be able to equate completely, they measure two different things.
Mick
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paulc
Sep 14, 2001, 9:37 PM
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I second on comps post. Boulder problems are completely different than routes. That is why they have a seperate rating system. You can kinda compare the two systems, but the actual kind of climbing is very different. Bouldering uses alot more power and routes require a combo of power/endurance to keep going.
Paul
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