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Help for a new gymrat??
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avue_striker85


Nov 20, 2005, 6:15 PM
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Help for a new gymrat??
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Im starting to train and Ill be a gymrat most of the winter, to avoid the cold. As for my diet and non-climbing training I am looking for advice.

1) What diets have worked well for others?

2) What kind of exercises can help me keep/build strength and endurence?

3) I have some Mad Rock Phenixs that I like, any suggetions for gym shoes?

4) Same as above, but about my hardware and harness? I have a Mammut Focus Harness and near to nothing for hardware, about 5 biners....seeing as I perfer soloing I havent touched the metal part of the sport much.

5) Any other usefull information that I might need to know about differences between indoor and outdoor.


turfguy


Nov 20, 2005, 6:35 PM
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i feel that you need to first determine what you are training for, i.e. bouldering, sport, multi-pitch etc...without focus you will aimlessly wander cranking out various problems. then pinpoint your climbing weaknesses as they pertain to your chosen area and address them. once you narrow your focus you can cater your gym workouts to suit the type of climbing you do and improve areas in your repertoire that are lacking.


captianstatic


Nov 20, 2005, 7:16 PM
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In terms of training, be sure to work opposite muscle groups. If you're only climbing you can overwork you're pulling muscles and neglect the pushers which can lead to all sort of injuires (mostly tendonitis). After you're finished climbing belt out some pushups or light bench press.


bootstrapping


Nov 21, 2005, 12:26 AM
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not that i'm particularly experienced at climbing, but if you are just starting out, i would say that you don't need to do too much climbing-specific-training right now. just climb. because you'll get stronger and better just by climbing. and do as static says by working your opposition muscles. because overuse injuries are one of the biggest dangers about indoor climbing.

regarding shoes, find shoes that fit your feet. the most technologically advanced shoe won't do squat for you if it does not fit your feet.

you need very little gear for indoor climbing.


tyson16v


Nov 21, 2005, 6:27 AM
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In reply to:
but if you are just starting out, i would say that you don't need to do too much climbing-specific-training right now. just climb. .
i agree with this.
there is a great opportunity to see huge gains that most of us would love to see again, just by climbing. you will have a great time learning and getting stronger just by climbing this winter in the gym. be patient, and you will see.
have fun.


avue_striker85


Nov 22, 2005, 3:06 AM
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Thank you, everyone this has been very helpfull....for referecnce I perfer solo, bouldering, and buildering...so I do have some styles I want to focus on....

Wouldn't mind trying out some trad also...


lenexa


Nov 22, 2005, 3:21 AM
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Just so you know, solo and buildering are not really aspects or genres of rock climbing.

You may want to get a rope and start Top Roping before you look into Trad. After you climb TR outside and like being outside, get some draws and do some sport climbs to see if you like leading. Sounds like you are quite new, I wouldn't worry about 'training' yet.

One thing I would suggest this winter is to get out of the cave or bouldering area and find someone to TR with. Try the tall routes your gym offers and feel how it is to be high--it also will build endurance more than bouldering. Perhaps you could go, start warming up on 1-2 easy routes, then start working on your "project" some route you can't do but really want to do--something in your upper grade range. Work on climbs you can't do and push your climbing technique and ability up. You need technique right now not training or strength or diet. So ask questions from people and work on routes you can't do--watch someone do routes you can't and then jump on and try what they did, you'll slowly learn how to adjust your hips and manipulate your feet to reach different holds. After you work on your project and other difficult routes, finish by doing laps on a easier route. Then come down and go burn out in the bouldering area, then do pushups, etc whatever else you want.


turfguy


Nov 23, 2005, 3:05 PM
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i might also add that if you are interested in doing trad and sport climbing that you focus your gym sessions on building an endurance base rather than working problems. i recommend staying on the wall for as long as possible without any hands free rests. work on traversing and finding juggy rests, shoot for 15-20 mins. just a thought...


mcgivney_nh


Nov 27, 2005, 1:34 AM
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In reply to:

1) What diets have worked well for others?

CHeck out the "How to lose weight to improve your climbing" thread (its sticky in technique and training)


In reply to:

2) What kind of exercises can help me keep/build strength and endurence?
As said before, spend as much time on the wall as you can. shoot for the maximum time possible (remember to shake out!!)

In reply to:
3) I have some Mad Rock Phenixs that I like, any suggetions for gym shoes?.

Those should be fine, get used to whatever you'll use outside.

In reply to:
4) Same as above, but about my hardware and harness? I have a Mammut Focus Harness and near to nothing for hardware, about 5 biners....seeing as I perfer soloing I havent touched the metal part of the sport much..
Use the same harness you use outside, you don't need much for indoor climbing, bring your belay device of choice... and maybe a couple 'biners, but until you start leading outside, you don't really need anything else. Unless your gym doesn't have quickdraws inside, then, if you want to lead in there, you need draws, and probably a rope.

In reply to:
5) Any other usefull information that I might need to know about differences between indoor and outdoor.

Route finding is a whole different game outside. As well, as the fact that you will (hopefully) have some good exposure.


-Sean


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