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jeapord
Nov 23, 2005, 5:14 PM
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Has anyone ever heard of or had a quickdraw break? Was it a biner or the webbing between them?
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csproul
Nov 23, 2005, 5:40 PM
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Bolt end biner, not the webbing itself. First bolt, low on a sport route with just enough rope out to barely keep the climber from really hitting the ground. Repeated falls above that first bolt.
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yetanotherdave
Nov 23, 2005, 6:18 PM
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when leading, I've seen the bolt-end biner slip in the bolt such that it'd be cross-loaded if I fell (dogbone on gate, bolt along biner spine).
This is mostly with narrow old biners, and those crappy homemade hangers you see at Red Rocks a lot. I've never hit a biner in this position (that I know of) but the few times I've seen it I've started mentally measuring the fall to the next bolt, cuz I doubt the sideways biner'd hold much.
To anyone who's actually had a biner break: could you tell from the failed biner if it was crossloaded?
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csproul
Nov 23, 2005, 6:27 PM
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In reply to: To anyone who's actually had a biner break: could you tell from the failed biner if it was crossloaded?
Not entirely sure, as I wasn't watching the draw every time the guy fell. But I don't think it was a crossloading issue since I'm guessing it would have broken at the gate if crossloaded.
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wbennett
Nov 23, 2005, 6:45 PM
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I saw on this site a picture and a story of a draw breaking. It was the sling not the biners. Sharp rock and a hard fall...
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sandstonejunkie
Nov 23, 2005, 7:41 PM
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I have had a biner basically collapse in on itself during a fall.
The biner had moved around and gotten pinned between the rock and the bolt hanger somehow such that when fallen on the fall forces were exerted on the head of the biner (where the gate closed)...that part of the biner bent inwards about 20% I would say (I don't have the biner anymore othewise I would post a photo)
I was pretty psyched to see that the aluminum bent insead of breaking...hopefully it will do that in the future as well...
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climbsomething
Nov 23, 2005, 9:10 PM
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climbsomething moved this thread from US - East Coast to General.
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brent_e
Nov 24, 2005, 4:15 AM
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Hey NIN....best name EVER!!!!
Brent
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nin
Nov 24, 2005, 5:59 AM
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thanks,Brent. :o
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